Jellybean

Memebers are running them on Stock ECU's idling like OEM ,they are not getting the max potential out of them but they are working fine Tomei also said I can use a stock ECU, I have a Sard Analyse rom in mine ; will throw her on the Dyno after to check everything

I would just get it all done at once and forget about it, doing it with the head on is very time consuming compared to taking the head off so probably around the same price for head off and valve guides done , versus messing about with the VSS and the head in situ I would also look into getting a stage one head off Paul and exchanging yours , will be all refreshed and minimal down time; save on installing yourself

Is anybody running Tomei Rods and Pistons HKS rods in conparsion to the Tomei are alot more expensive 1200 euro versus 768 euro With regards the bore 86.5 or 87 ; what determines what bore you go for? Is it down to if the block was honed before so you starting on an OEM block at 86 you would go for the 86.5 and leave the .5 in as a safety net incase you needed to re-bore it again

I dont drink or smoke so might as well waste it on car parts

6 are the price of a few pints , I rather the Bolts lol

I was thinking these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-Titanium-Hex-Head-RACE-spec-Bolts-Drilled-lock-Wire-10-15-20-25-30-mm-x1-0tp-/121381306109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1c42e3befd

Thanks so the 6 bolts all the same? M6X25

Does anybody know the lenghts ? They are M6 ?

Maybr Titek? http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Merchant/CFP-84001D.jpg

Anybody know where to get Stainless Steel Bolts for the Slam Panel, head lights, Radiator brackets

I am do a little bit of night time reading A.Graham Bell Four Stroke Performance Tuning Very interesting so far and oil temps/oil coolers / Race Thermostats for the Rad So , he said to for running in The Cam bearing journals are taped and the cam is plunged into a high temperature bath of Phosphate acid to which etched open the pores of the cam so that it may retain oil more effectively , this is the lubriting part of the process Please dont tell me I need to do this I need to re-read the chapter again but I can comprehend what he says , but I think you really need somebody with experience to setup the dialler and degree wheel ; its one of those things , sounds straight forward in practice but its experience that executes it correctly Alot of measurements in here about tappet velocities and Measuring cam Characteristics/Accuracy , plus using cam timing sprockets versus Vernier pulleys to time the Cams, valve fouling, calculating camshaft Timing Diagrams , calculating vale spring pressures I think I will need to re-read the chapter a few times

I would not even bother trying to get it done here , alot of phone calls to the UK to figure out how to do it

Out of curiosity to go from BPU to small Single , GTX35R ; what budget would you need to drive in drive out; I reckon easy 15K gbp

Subscribed !

Thanks Chris Hub Bearing is fine , I checked it and had a mechanic check it too plus the MOT crowd here Maybe the cheap brake shoes is the issue , hand brake was tight before she was parked up , now its extends too much for my liking

The battery on a pre-facelift fits snug in the little cubbie hole between the Rear seat and wheel well area ; plus it is central located over the rear axle so good weight distribution If you need some Cable , get some from a BMW at the Scrap yard , they run the batteries to the boot ; cheap source for a cable Dont use Audio cable, get the correct guage The battery needs to be an AGM/Sealed Battery as it is in an open environment , Optima , Varley, Odyseey

If it was finished or available yet lol I taught I missed the unveil

Did the TOM's Supra use the Supra chassis? I wonder was the track extended , offset on the wheels is not very aggressive

Plasti Dip

My taughts too, Easy to swap out the rear lights and Thanks!

I cannot find anything on the Ecu released at autosport in January, just some posts on facebook about it getting released soon Anybody have any info?

Hey I put on new Handbrake shoes and it is really really annoying the driver side squeaks , turning right at slow speed I was adjusted and it stopped but its back again after leaving the car sitting up for the winter How can I get rid of it?

I will get them when the weather gets better and the car is back on the road - - - Updated - - - I will get them when the weather gets better and the car is back on the road

Heres Plasti Dip , the clock was not painted so you can see how OEM it looks http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?285821-Project-TRD3000GT/page7&highlight=trd3000gt

I have the trd bilsteins , will get the trd sway bars so Car is getting all new oem suspension installed at the moment and subframe bushes so taught I would polish it off with these, that's the trd suspension catalog on it , bushes are trd too