Jellybean

Thanks Guys She has more characteristics to induce understeer , will try the tyre pressures as its cheap , I got her setup by a competent suspension guy and a piece of string so she is as close as you will get her to OEM settings, for safety reasons will be geared towards understeer by Toyota, its only now after all new suspension I can really push her and highlight what would be suited better to my driving style, at least I have a good platform to work off now Bilsteins are fixed rate, rollbars are fixed adjustment, unless I get her realigned again , looks like I am stuck with tyre pressures LSD is the Carbonetic unit And yes Chris , she is too low lol has big wheels and tyres, everything you dont like but it looks cool; Blame me for the wheels but Toyota messed up everything else

No worries was happy to see they didn't charge , it's only 4 euro but still , good to see companies value your custom

Sorry Chris , I was tired last nite Corner entry it is most prevalent, steady state it's there and exit , on exit for me to invoke oversteer I would have to push the car too aggressively for it to be safe on a public road and it would be considered wild driving on a track , I use a touch of trailing throttle to get her pointing the way a want, push through the directional change she was sitting up last few months so taught maybe the tyres needed to be scrubbed in, before I could get her to an air pump I drove her on roughly 30 psi , and she felt gripper but I didn't push her through any twisty stuff till I checked pressures Pumped her up to 33 psi all round , she feels a bit skatish on the surface, as though the car is on ice, but not a serve , maybe too much pressure and I am not getting a full contact patch off the tyre If I am going through a sweeping bend, is just a gradual directions change, the more throttle you use , the more she wants to keep going straight, you have to modulate the throttle to keep her turning in

Looks like I need to http://www.thesmokingtire.com/2012/massive-list-of-solutions-to-understeeroversteer/ Raise front tire pressure. Lower rear tire pressure.

Suspension is fixed Rate TRD Bilsteins , I think my only options are tyres and pressures , think I will mess with the pressures ; I think a 30-31 psi might help things

Thanks, yeah have the LSD in there, I think its the grippy tyres on the rear

More so in corners she understeers

she was always manual, RZ model

Wish you and Ben a safe and quick recovery

Hey Do most experience understeer under WOT, she just wants to squat and go straight ? Maybe its my tyres or pressures , I am running BPU, TRD rollbars, 33 psi all round, Falken 452 upfront , Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 Rear , Toyota OEM Suspension alignment settings

I am a bit perplexed by this , no engine codes to run off , nothing logged Anybody any Idea's?

Thanks Damien Oh yeah I got the door gromets off Toyota for free, considering I bought so much off them lol

Heres a video of it ignore the rattle, just the phone ratttling on the centre console https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIn_EUpg4XY

Just came up with a message to say I need to "click here" to join to see the content Thanks again, thats great ! Will get her on the ramp tomorrow and check her out , hopefully a simple fix I was testing again today, I can get a sweet spot at 60 km/hr ; no noise; something is out of balance

I had to join Group A343/0E Hybrid Transmission

Thanks David but your pic is not showing

Thank you !

Motec is €€€€€

Thanks Chris , I don't know if he did, will ask him If it was not, what's my options but I bet you hit the nail on the head If they are out of balance is it dangerous?

Haltech Elite is just as feature rich as the Syvecs for the 2jz, but any modern ECU now is over kill for what a 2JZ needs to run it Motec is still the Bench mark for other manufacturers to play catch up to Go with your what your mapper is comfortable with I would also advise a complete new loom , looms in the cars are at coming up to 2 decades old now, due to engine heat, plastic connectors are getting frail and conductivity of wiring might be diminished , worth doing it right if you are going single or at least do ECU and loom before you go single , if budget is tight

Alot of guys here running the 2jz and Haltech Elite ECU/ Platinum Sport 2000 ECU with 95 octane (look up james deane 2jz), Please prepare yourself for Syvecs is the only good ECU out there HKS mainfolds are top quality, enough heat cycles will cause any tubular manifold to crack eventually; a heavy turbo moving around on the manifold will also cause wear and tear , Vband manifolds are supposedly less prone to cracking as opposed to a T4/T6 setup, its all down to bracing, a cast manifold (OEM manifold is cast) will be near indestructible , 6boost do Vband manifolds go divided for spool (Twin Scroll) A/R is all about spool, to simplify it , if you think about trying to suck liquid through a straw, it will take a X amount of time and effort to suck the liquid through but you will soon come to the max volume of liquid you can retrieve, if you go the the other extreme of trying to use a straw 4 times the diameter, it will take more effort and time to suck the liquid through the straw but you will flow a higher volume of liquid , its all about compromise , either you want something responsive but less top end or something less responsive and more top end , the smaller the A/R the smaller the straw, vice versa, remember too small a straw and you will be frustrated, as a bench mark for a fast 2jz street car .82 A/R is a good starting point As for turbo choice I would go with the latest technology

Just checked , throttle section all looks good, no loose cables/plugs Could it be anything to do with how she detects slip, maybe the sensor dirty , Which solenoid is the trac? If I did pull the fuse on the trac, would the light be constantly flashing , just for mot time, how do you get around it

Thanks David , I was going to run the motul 75w140 https://carbonetic.wordpress.com/tech-support/ They have changed their website, but I did see on the their the motul pa90 and Paul ran it in the time Attack supra with the same diff I am just a bit hesitant as its 56 pound versus 20 pound for the motul pa90 I did get the expensive stuff before and made no difference but then again the diff needed a rebuild and it just sounds more like chatter to me but you can hit the sweet spot with her at a certain Rev and no acceleration, she sounds smooth It's hard to gauge igf this is normal , it's not s common diff people install But thanks for the help, the expensive oil will be the cheaper option DriveBrand Nameproducts nameViscosity FRBPX9140S80W-140 FFBPX9118S75W-90 FR/FFNUTECUW7675W-140 FFADVANTAG NEOHi proof shock FRADVANTAG NEORHD75W-90 FR/MRA.S.H250R85W-140 FF/FRTOTALPRO-R75W-140

Ran her on the ramp and had a screw driver up against her , sounded fine Maybe the carbonetic diff is just not oem quiet , or maybe it would benefit from a better oil than motul pa90

? As in have the prop the wrong way round? The centre bearing joints the prop together