Jellybean

Would I be right in saying a 1jzgte from a MK3 Supra will work, same map sensor?

thanks Chris The condition I tested the 5V under was the VCC and E2 terminals on the Map sensor Plug on the ECU loom with key on / engine off (I read there should be 4.5-5.5v) At normal atmospheric pressure it is supposed to be 3.3-3.9V. The voltage drop from normal atmospheric pressure when you apply a vacuum is supposed to be: 13.3 kPa 0.3-0.5 V 26.7 kPa 0.7-0.9 V 40 kPa 1.1-1.3 V 53.5 kPa 1.5-1.7 V 66.7 kPa 1.9-2.1 V I think the Test I need to do is key on / engine idling, measure the Voltage at ECU ; if it is working expect a low Voltage ?

Taught I read that some where, strange though toyodiy has both the same part number for them

Mine has a SARD rom in the ECU with fuel cut raised to 1.3 bar , because the feed from the ECU to the sensor reads 5V I taught I could rule out wiring issue from ECU to the Sensor? I was looking at testing the Sensor but trying to test all the various engine conditions by supplying different Vacuum conditions seems very difficult to mimic, just going to get a loan of a sensor and try it instead Not too sure how I would go about creating a vacuum in the sensor?

SENSOR, TURBO PRESSURE 89421-12111 looks like the same but called a different name, if that is the map sensor http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1999_TOYOTA_ARISTO_JZS161-BEPVZ_8404.4.html?hl=89452

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_8404.html?hl=89421 89421-12111 is this it SENSOR ASSY, VACUUM (FOR E.F.I.)

I can get a loan of a VVTI Aristo Map Sensor to test if mine is gone; is it compatible with a 2jzgte Jspec 1993

Forgot to say, Thanks for the help guys! Will see if I can get a loan of a sensor , will post up my findings if it fixes the issue

I reset the ECU,did a quick check of all vacuum lines, tested the Voltage going to the Map Sensor , mine is at 5V. I started her up, let her get to temp, she was running fine and after she warmed up , she idled at the 7-800 mark, turned her off then started her up again; then she went hunting 1-2K , et her run for a few mins and checked for any ECU error codes, she has error code 31 , Map sensor I also ruled out the ICV , I am fairly confident its the MAP sensor on mine, with regards the black smoke, thats her dumping in fuel to avoid a a lean condition, happened to me on track a few years back when my Map sensor plug came loose Map Sensor Voltage Test unplug it , hook up your volt meter , should be 4.5-5.5v between terminals VCC and E2 of the plug going to it (that's the outer two pins) with the ignition on. The test for the sensor itself I don't think is going to be very useful, because you have to disconnect the hose on the intake chamber side and apply a vacuum to it. Easier to just get a loan of a unit if you can

Thanks , what manual is it in ? was looking through them and cannot find it What would cause the TPS to need adjusting if it was not touched?

I can find the Cam sensors in the EFI & Ignition (2JZ-GTE) manual, but how do I test the other sensors are working ; cannot find them in the repair manuals

Am I wasting my time , looking at Cam postion sensors TPS sensor Crankshaft sensor

Will take a look, thanks

It's the next step lol I would of taught a error code would be logged on the ECU if it was the map sensor Any way I can test it? Was going to check Intake intercooler pipe is on securely Cool pack clips and plugs Clien the Idle control valve Check all vacuum pipes Check sensors are secure Check ecu map sensor wire and harness is secure Anybody thing of anything else?

I just went from poly bush to oem, I don't feel any difference

Nightmare trying to get her back on the road, crank pulley went last week, fitted ATI today plus billet PHR pulleys Battery went flat, got her jumped via booster pack , left her to idle for about 10 mins , to give the battery a charge, took her outside, sitiing there she revved herself to 2k back to 700-1k then did it again 3 times in quick succession , then back to normal 5-600 rpm idle I just put it down to the ecu resetting, took her for a spin , she pulled fine to 1.2 bar mark , then on a 3rd pull it was like she hit fuel cut but not as violent then seemed fine after Took her back switched her off, went to take her home, turned her on , now she just revs to 2k rpm then back , constantly does this now, switched her off and she is running rich based on the smell of fuel Very strange, any ideas? Nothing electrical was touched in the car, just the crank pulley and aux pulleys, aux belt was changed, last week she was going like a train No engine codes , I was thinking resetting the ecu again Anybody experience this? I had the intake IC pipe off today, might be getting too much air? leak?

bump

Was reading the upcoming Audi TT will be running an electric biturbo & 600 hp Is the electric biturbo the way turbo technology is going, seems promising

After I overhauled my UK's with new seals , brakes are stunning, fantastic pedal feel, really easy to modulate the pad and left foot braking is a doodle

Just joined the group but need to be approved ! Thanks , not too bad a price, interesting how mike gets on with them

What price are the SRT's?

Stunning! For Vacuum hoses , use the gates racing 4mm 3metres 5mm 1 metre 6mm 1 metre http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-Reinforced-Fuel-Hose-Heat-Oil-Resistant-4mm-5mm-6mm-7mm-8mm-10mm-ID-/330803508813?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item4d056cf64d

to quote PHR , It is a direct replacement for the factory pulley, no new hardware of spacers necessary. It is the same diameter as factory and does not require a belt change. http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-4806-phr-billet-aluminum-idler-pulley-for-2jz.aspx

Thanks !

The spacer as in the pic PHR want 42 dollars to send it to Ireland lol