Jellybean

Thanks Chris , GTS-t engine always was a GTS-t 1997 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 2 Engine ACL Big-End Bearings ACL Main Bearings Blueprint Oil Sandwich Plate Cosworth Steel Head Gasket OEM CAT HKS Silent Hi-Power Cat Back Exhaust HKS Stainless Steel Downpipe HKS Super Power Flow Reloaded Filter K&N Gold Oil Filter Mishimoto Alu Rad NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs - 0.8mm Gap Nismo 250LPH Fuel Pump Nismo Low Temp Thermostat Nissan Genuine OEM N1 Oil Pump(TDP.ie Reconditioned) Nissan Genuine OEM N1 Water Pump Nissan Genuine OEM O2 Sensor Nissan Genuine OEM RB26 Heat Exchanger SplitFire Direct Ignition System Coil Packs aftermarket FMIC Core Wossner 86.5mm Forged Pistons Link G4 with CAS trigger Delete kit

Thanks Tim

Firewall in mine is starting to come away , engine out to replace? What are my options?

Stunning!

Hi Tim My Friend is running a Skyline R33 GTST , OEM tubbie, OEM cams , fairly standard car inlet cam was nearly seized in the head , on a recent track day hottest the oil(Millers NanoDrive CFS 10w50 - freshly changed) got was 110c when hammering it. cooled down quickly on cool down laps back down to 90c ish , the tuner said the nanodrive oil is so good that it litterly slips off the parts on the top of the engine and drains back offering little or no cold start protection Tuner said 10W60 mobil1 coats the parts better and doesn't drain as quick Common sense to me ,It won't drain as quick because it's thicker, if millers was that bad at protecting parts , engines would be failing left right and centre but what is your view on this?

If you read it again I said the Engine is rebuilt to 700hp , I never said it is running 700hp I heard 2j links having issues with processing the trigger signal , the ECU cannot process it quick enough but based on its spec , all ECU's are near on par so I call BS but I am still yet to see a daily car running one reliably

Hi My Friend has a R33 Skyline GTST , engine is rebuilt to 700hp but it is still running on OEM tubbie, OEM cams with a Link G4 ECU and trigger delete He is having terrible issues with the car , overfueling , lumpy idle , car broke down 3 times leaving him stranded on the side of the road , reason was everything from Alarm to Radio fuse ; car is not running good at all since the install of the ECU in November last year , his wideband lambda is now gone after 3000KM ; I find the oil a hard one to believe , on a recent track day hottest the oil(Millers NanoDrive CFS 10w50 - freshly changed) got was 110c when hammering it. cooled down quickly on cool down laps back down to 90c ish Anybody know what oil Chris Wilson is running, he has a track only GTST?Based on my car , 2JZ head "Looks like New" is what I was told when I had my cams installed, I cannot see 10W50 oil being an issue at 110, a good synthetic branded 5w-40s are fine up to 130C I dont believe this is down to the ECU? Is anybody running their car reliably using a Link? Updates from the Tuner Update 1 HI After some extensive testing we have sorted a few issues but others remain. We could not find the std dump valve in the boost so we have it blocked for testing. There was a bad miss on load that we could find and repeat. This was fixed by new spark plugs. ( The spark plugs showed signs of some contaminated fuel at some stage in the past ) The Lambda sensor is going into fail mode after 30 mins of running also. This is probably form contaminated fuel they normally last years in this power install. ( This will need replacing but we dont keep that model in stock so it will take 3 days to get one ) The VVT sprocket is doing some very weird things when the oil is over 80deg c. It now nee to be changed. I have some arriving here tomorrow to try. I suggests we try and fix all the issues now so we wont have the reoccurring intermittent faults ? Update 2 HI We are doing some investigating as we striped the timing belt off to change the VVT pulley to find that the inlet cam is very stiff in the head. We found No6 Inlet cam cap to have picked up form poor oil film protection probably on the last track day. The oil you are using now is not doing the Job it should and dose not protect the engine the same as the Mobil 1 we advise. You are lucky the cam did not totally seize and snap off and ruin the engine. We will polish up the cap and cam and they will be fine. We will then fit the vvt sprocket and re assemble the front of the engien. Update 3 he opened up the rocker covers to get at the vvt pulley to replace it, and spotted zero oil in the head, not even a film He polished the cap and cam all up and now can turn the cam manually where as before he couldnt He said the nanodrive oil is so good that it litterly slips off the parts on the top of the engine and drains back offering little or no cold start ; says mobil1 coats the parts better and doesn't drain as quick

Stick with the HKS you mad scone , why pay $$$ again for RPS, rear crank seal could of went with any clutch

Sorry my bad , I taught all facelift are vvti

What price where yours Malcolm

TCB for pre facelift coil packs Pattern Part Coil (12 Months Warranty) - £39.80 each + VAT Denso OEM Ignition Coil (Denso Make the Coils for Toyota 12 Months Warranty) - £85 each + VAT Genuine Toyota Coil (Denso Coil in a Toyota Box) - £138.77 each + VAT

Thanks Nic , will mail him ! they are about 70 euro each from Toyota UAE

I know , but not the question I asked ! I was looking for members experiences with them, reliability,You may get slight discrepancies in fitment ; I also read sometimes these are "B" rated parts. Factory O.E. gets A, and for whatever reason, in quality control parts sold with the Toyota sanded off didn't meet standards. Its always good to spend 5 mins checking than wasting 300 GBP

That's what I am afraid of , was thinking getting them from RockAuto

Anybody running Denso Coilpacks? (673-1200 Direct Ignition Coil) Toyota want 140 euro each versus 50-60 euro each via the US Might bite the bullet and get new ones , no issues but they are 23 years old

Thanks , Do you know the facelift fronts too Nic? I dont trust looking up Toyodiy without a Model number

Anybody know the part numbers for facelift rears?

Some detail from Chris , Alcon, Ap Racing and Brembo are considered the top brands http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?318433-Best-brake-upgrade-for-a-Supra/page2&highlight=Brembo+brakes Brake upgrades can set out to try to achieve several objectives. The commonest are to increase resistance to fade and or increase braking effort for a given pedal effort. IE, the pads are pushed against the discs harder for a given pedal effort than before the upgrade, or the brakes will stop the car from 100 MPH, hard, for more times before fade sets in, than previously. The feel from the pedal, that almost intangible quality, can also be addressed and sometimes improved upon by brake size, or pad material changes, or brake flexi hose upgrades to something less squashy than rubber. It's easy to get carried away by the thought of brake upgrades. The limitation in most cars as to how short a distance they can stop in is tyre friction. Leaving aside pedal feedback, and fade, it is almost certain that a Supra on stock Jap spec brakes will stop in just as short a distance as one with an AP six pot kit on it, a Brembo kit, Pauls KAD kit, or whatever. It may not feel to the driver that it does, but usually such is the case if you just nail the pedal as hard as you can. The fancy kits may *FEEL* to stop the car faster, due to less pedal effort, and a better bite, but in reality, if you hit the pedal as hard as you can with stock Jap spec brakes, UK spec brakes, AP kit, KAD, whatever, the car will stop in the same distance. Repeat this test 10 times and stock Jap brakes may be on fire and long since faded, or the fluid boiled, UK ones may be very hot and bothered, but the upgraded ones will probably still be working within pad, disc and brake fluid temp limits. Add in the intangible "feel" factor, and a desire to brake as hard as possible, using as little skill as possible, but WITHOUT relying on the ABS to take over, and for sure a well set up brake upgrade may well allow more finesse. Herein though lies the rub. Upgrade only the fronts and the brake balance of the stock car may well be compromised. Let's take stock brakes. You press smoothly on the brake pedal with (say) 50 pounds force. The car stops fine. 70 pounds, the fronts are just beginning to lock (car makers ALWAYS aim for the fronts to lock first, as rear wheel lock makes the car very unstable and liable to swap ends). The rears are doing as much work as the brake engineers deemed safe to prevent premature rear lock up. The ABS cuts in, and maximum retardation has been reached. Now, take a car with big front discs and calipers. Only 40 pounds pressure now gives a smooth, lock free and powerful retardation. 50 pounds and the new, more powerful, (for the same pedal pressure), fronts are locking. The ABS cuts in. BUT, and this is the crux, those original rear calipers and discs are still well below the caliper pressure where they are able to achieve maximum retardation without fear of the rears locking. In other words the FRONT brakes are doing TOO MUCH work, albeit without breaking into a sweat, and the rears are, to exaggerate a bit, just along for the ride. The BEST scenario is to upgrade front AND rear brakes, carefully ensuring the original balance of effort at any given brake pedal pressure remains as designed, but that the more efficient front AND rear brakes stay cooler for more hard stops, and that old intangible "feel" from the brake pedal is improved, at lower rates of driver effort on the pedal. The latter may or may not be good or desirable, and can be engineered out by changing BOTH front and rear caliper piston sizes, or pad areas. In a race car the balance would be adjustable via 2 brake master cylinders, with a driver selectable change in mechanical leverage effort between front and rear brake circuits, one cylinder operating the front brake calipers, the other the rear. This can also be achieved on road cars, but to do so is usually complex and expensive, especially if ABS and brake circuit failure safeguards are to be maintained. It is far easier to calculate the caliper and disc sizes, along with pad area and compound to achieve this, as near as available off the shelf equipment will allow. Caveat. I said before makers engineer more effort on the front brakes to encourage straight line stopping if the tyres are locked up . They err on the excessive side, as, in the wet, the rear tyres can take a lot more braking effort than in the dry, due to less weight transfer onto the front tyres, as they will lock before as much weight is transferred when the grip of the road surface is reduced. So adding yet more front brake effort worsens this existing imbalance, especially in the wet. If it were not for the ABS the front wheels would be locking up very early. On the Supra a relatively sophisticated ABS allows some effort to be taken off JUST the fronts, and an artificial and very inefficient balance is returned. On cars with lesser (1 or 2 channel) ABS, or no ABS at all, a brake upgrade on just one end of the car can be lethal.

I did as best I can but its tight down the side of the intake , think I will just thermal sleeve a few items and put a small piece of rad piping around the braided line to keep it up off the cable and minimise thermal transfer Insulation on the cables is a few mm thick but rather have them heat protected for piece of mind

Sorry not an earth , power cable to the alternator

Hey I have some Braid dash 10 Oil lines running from the oil Filter (Located in the Carbon Canister location) to the sandwich plate ; The lines do touch against some grounding cables ,in particular the earth cable running to the battery in the boot Is it good practice to put a thermal sleeve on the oil lines ? thanks

Thank you!

A quick one , PTFE hose I presume you can only use an Olive type compression fitting as opposed to a Barbed/cutter design fitting ? Barbed/cutter design fitting i.e. Earls can only be used with a Rubber hose ?

It wont , it will think there is a big vacuum leak and compensate by running very rich Will soon cause oil contamination , borewash and then risk to your bearings due to lack of lubrication

Toyota did a good job , they would proviude a greater benefit if you had an aftermarket Turbo Not worth the hassle for 20-30 hp, would probably equate to 10hp on an NA