Jellybean

Nope , wasnt that car; nearly sure it was a 6266 or 6466 Celica cable I got from Toyota was 180 euro

You do need a longer cable , Celica St205 cable (781802D390) or what Bijal has , PHR do a cable too I cannot find the thread on here but it was a white Supra ; remember his first dyno session with greg, his front main seal went on the oil pump

One of the guys on here had his car in with Greg in protuner , Greg was impressed with it ; no leaking from the throttle body butterfly , is common with the cheaper units

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Car: JDM TT MTM6 Location: leicester UK Postage: UPS tracked Mileage: 4300 miles Price: 239 gbp Postage 10 gbp within the UK Comes with new crank mounting bolts Sitting in ATI box ready to ship http://www.atiracing.com/products/da.../damtoyota.htm Requires longer belt: 15% OD, OEM, 6 rib. (Use Goodyear #4060775, Gates #K060775, Dayco #5060775 or Drive-Rite #775K6).

This was them new , just need to get recent pics ; mechanic has to send on

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Location:leicester UK Price : 199 gbp Postage: 10gbp within the uk Will post pics in this week 4 Piece Kit includes: Finished: Machined Power Steering Pulley Water Pump Pulley Alternator Pulley Idler Pulley The PHR Billet Aluminum Pulleys are made of 6061-T6 Aluminum and the idler pulley features a precision bearing for lifelong performance and reliability. Although the bearing should NEVER fail, it is still serviceable. It is a direct replacement for the factory pulleys, no new hardware of spacers necessary. It is the same diameter as factory and does not require a belt change. Fits any car equipped with 2JZ or 1JZ engine with clutch fan water pump (not hydro-fan), not limited to: 1993-2001 Toyota Supra 1992-2001 Lexus SC300 JZA70 Supra

Did you get any F35 jets, last I heard they had major software issues, alledged security breaches due to outsourcing to an Indian software company

You either have the car built to take the power or do not , you are asking "if I restrict the rev limit" , absolute nonsense ; just plagiarise somebodies Dyno sheet, tell everybody you have 1500hp ... Real Street will recommend you to use Billet main caps or any reputable shop, making the power and longevity of your engine under that power , are two different things You car is 1993 , 26 going on 27 years old, the days of throwing power at these engines with the expectation of longevity is long gone; needs a full refresh, the factory crank pushes down on the caps often leading to stress fractures and cracks.High cylinder pressures will often overcome the strength of the caps and stretch the bolts, causing the main caps to "walk" and actually bounce on the block's mating surfaces, eventually damaging the contact area. This can, in turn, loosen the main bearings in their saddles to the point where the engine loses oil pressure or the bearings spin. When a main cap fails , you will literally scrap your block, pistons, rods, bearings , crank, most likely some head components for good measure..at 1k hp you are pushing the engine to see when it will fail , not if it will fail A nice read https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/2jz-billet-main-caps/ I wonder who that sounds like

Look into PHR Street Torque kit , apart from quality and fitment , big benefit, it has provision to bolt up the OE cat for MOT time Before anybody starts harping on it is only LHD fitment , PHR have a RHD Shell in their shop to ensure it fits correctly. ECU , I would not restrict yourself to a Syvecs ;talk to your tuner , no issue using Link, EMU Black ; whatever they are comfortable with , the 2JZ is a very basic engine in comparison to modern tech , alot of the capabilities on the high end ECU's are redundant when it comes to a 2JZ EMU Black , just brought out a VVTI PNP adapter about 2 weeks ago https://ecumasterusa.com/products/2jz-vvti-pnp-for-emu-black?_pos=1&_sid=c1a77b17a&_ss=r&variant=30987871092873&fbclid=IwAR1F4NJF2cYm9vxoOJ9fGyPTd9eidOiJvoEZ3eJARCfoY0zAY1qE8_iZzow

What you don't seem to comprehend, as said previously 900 hp on a standard bottom end, this is not risk, mechanical suicide When you engine does grenade itself, how catastrophic will the damage be, if you have deep pockets for a new crank, block ; high risk these will be damaged

Not my engine , but a shops customers engine who decided to ignore the advice of the builder , one who based on their experience, other Customers and advise of the builder ; I decided to have billet mains installed. When you factor in labor , parts ...its not worth the risk It is up to you to do your due diligence on it, all you can do is try mitigate the risk ; I would advise talking to the Shops customers with 900 hp on a stock bottom end. Make an educated decision when all the variables are presented before you Remember on strip down , for example your crank needs to be measured and be within the toyota specs; dont go into a build ,naive and think my 17 year old engine is factory fresh , things wear , things need replacing ...unexpected expenditures will and can come up; you need to factor in a contingence fund in your budget

Building an engine for 1000hp is not cheap , trying to make champagne on a beer budget will not fair too good ; If you want to make big and reliable power you gotta spend the money. I have seen so many cars have huge sums of cash thrown at them, best known brands, resulting in poor execution with the consequence of reliability, driveability ... money pit getting bounced around having numerous people involved all blaming the previous guy Even if you have a 2002 car , it is 17 years old; I would get the expectation of longevity from an unopened block pushing 1000hp out of your head, I could sit here tell you what you want to hear, post links of some stranger on youtube claiming to run 1000hp on stock everything ; most likely just looking for click bait , nothing to verify it is an unopened block, reenforcing your denial ; ignorance is bliss This is 650hp on original OE main caps after a rebuild, talk to reputable builders who are not looking at you as just an invoice , wash their hands of it later

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I would do what David suggested , media Blast , coat in Galvafroid with a brush, Hammerite satin black over it

Out of curiosity , the MR2 Sw20 is shimless Bucket from factory as far as I am aware , why was the A80 not Shimless , cost, just down to old tech ? are all modern cars shimless?

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