Jellybean

Found out the issue, I have a SARD ECU and it is already has a boost cut or either 1.1 bar or 1.3 bar depending on model you have, not too sure what i have I have Denso Iridium - IK20 , taught she was stock ECU so think I am experiancing a misfire not fuel cut, I have removed the BCC and she is hiting over 1 bar so think if I change out plugs to a colder grade (IK24's ) she she be good, if not I will have to get Marty @ Supra specialist ireland to take a look Just he's a good 3-4 hours drive away

Just seen I have a SARD Analyse ECU, anybody come across them or have any info? http://file047a.bebo.com/13/large/2009/07/25/17/20295479a11296680800l.jpg Can only find this http://takakaira.com/Main.aspx Analyse Analyse is an ECU set to provide alteration of high boost & rev control at high speed driving, and provides accurate engine control in various conditions, such as partial range, street driving, and engine idling. Resetting items of Analyse: * Fuel map resetting. * Ignition map resetting. * Rev limiter resetting. * Speed limiter cancellation. * Boost limiter cancellation. It's strongly required to use high-octane gasoline after the replacement of ECU (in Japan "high-octane gasoline" values is 100~101%.

Reverted it back and she is running at 0.9 bar mechanically , 1.0 bar via boost controller though fuel cut is kicking in as expected Must have it hooked up wrong

I taught the car would run like crap if it was, just so hard to get any form of diagram on what connects to what and what wires are what Must of seen 4 different diagrams today, all saying different things

I say it will, does the wiring look ok and if it does go over 0.6 then?

Stunner very Nice, I like

Anybody, want to put the car back together tonight if possible

It started out as a Q but I found out the answers myself, at least I think I did Ian can you have a look at this thread too for me, she only goes to 0.6 bar after BCC install http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=2455008&posted=1#post2455008

pics added above

I have pics, just waitng on my PC to stop having a hissy fit, 2 secs Not too sure if SARD tampered with the ECU is the problem The Ground was a light Brown wire on the center block The 12 V was on the first block (red/black wire) The Map was on the center block (Yellow black wire),BCC green wire to ECU and White Wire to Map Sensor http://file047a.bebo.com/13/large/2009/07/25/17/20295479a11296680800l.jpg http://file047a.bebo.com/14/large/2009/07/25/18/20295479a11296736717l.jpg

The BCC is the GREDDY Boost cut comtroller, I have an Apexi Avcr too

I have the BCC installed, She is now only running to 0.6 bar, turned on the Boost controller set her to 1 bar and still 0.6 bar, turned up the duty cycle and nothing still 0.6 The BCC is set at 4.1V, car runs fine otherwise, ehat could be the issue? Mechanically she is 1 bar, nomall runs to 1 bar but hence why i got the BCC due to fuel cut

I know everybody says standard box with upgraded panel filter and I know this is probably the best solution for gains but what about the K&N one in MVP with the cold box? http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/merchant/catalogpics/mk4/gary/pic05.jpg http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=213&SearchYN=N

With some help from google translate and the Jap instructions 赤 -- Red wire 黒 -- Black wire 緑 -- Green wire 白 -- White wire Based on the diagram and counting the pins I will give it a go, thats about as good as my Japanese gets Looks like article is no good for Jspec,different pins. The amount of wires in the ECU is nuts. They would give an asprin a headache Precison Adjust of Volt I have also set the BCC to peak voltage output of 4.3 V as I have a 93-95 car 1. The Connections for Voltage Tune assume your BCC is uninstalled. To Volt tune after the BCC is fully installed, you will need to disconnect the BCC's green and white wires to proceed, but may leave the red and black wires installed. 2. Red BCC wire to any 12V source such as car battery + 3. Black BCC wire, and negative probe of your voltmeter, to ground of same battery. 4. White BCC wire to any automotive voltage source of 5-12V. Simplest is to use the 12V source same as red wire. Others have used the 6V output of a battery charger, doesn't matter because any Input of 5-12v to the BCC will give the same Output for a given adjustment screw setting. 5. Green BCC wire to the positive probe of your voltmeter. 6. Turn screw to provide voltmeter reading of Nearly but Not More Than: 4.3 V for 93-95 cars; 4.1 V for 96-98 cars. This a condensed version Pics and more details is in the Article, article is not applicable to JSpec (confirmed with Jap instructions) not too sure about UK http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc...nstall/bcc.htm

J-spec wiring harness wire colours and positions on the harness are the same?? im looking at an article here and they dont appear to be matching http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc...nstall/bcc.htm Just confirmed with Japanese instructions,not applicable to JSpec Wire locations on the ECU pins are different

Its in a battery box and due to the weight and it looks like its screwed into the board under the carpet, just wondering is there a better solution to secure it better At the moment its secure enough to stay where it is but it could be secured better

Hey I have the battery in the boot it is clamped in a shiny battery box, it it possible to bolt the battery box to something in the boot, how is it normally done?

Bad form Thats why I am reluctant to have my car in car shows or at meets

ebay

You need to buy the whole arm to replace the balljoints , unfortunetly not sold seperate or any refurb kits

Would sport Cats help reduce the noise but retain the free flowing exhaust

Just the T Belt, once she is well maintiained they are pretty much bulletproof

Just for visual effect but for marketing perspective, they stop and fluids dripping on to your engine bay by soaking them up

CWC (Chris Wilson Country)

Did a search couldnt find it,