Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Jellybean

Club Members
  • Posts

    7185
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Jellybean

  1. http://cgi.ebay.ie/Rubber-Walking-Stick-Cane-Ferrules-Pck-4-Pack-Any-Size-/280500644564?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item870aece294 HKS http://whifbitzperformancetuning.co.uk/toyota-supra-supra-cooling-parts-radiatorshosesfans-caps-hks-p-1873.html
  2. Thanks for the confirmation dan; great to get real world feedback. The odd time I would like a 90+ db exhaust but 90% of the time its nice to hear yourself. I did change the exhaust before on my previous car and after 2 weeks, I hated it. Plus the police over here target you if it is above your normal DB. The exhaust where they hear you before they see you My only prerequisites so far are Ryan G and his Solaris S6GP -- just waiting to hear about the plug and play unit Whifbitz twin waste-gate kit -- Still between two minds for an external or plumbed-in wastegate Bosch 044 pump -- Want to keep it simple rather than running twin Walbro's I want to stay under the radar, I dont have any negative alterations with the police but if she is very loud constantly, you will get your colar felt. Suddenly your 5mph over the speedlimit threshold will disolve and you will be a target( by any means to get you off the road). I would like to stay under the radar, they only approach me to look at the car becasue they are interested in what it is; woud like to keep it that way
  3. Thanks very helpful; I have teh Sard Arouse exhaust(I presume most aftermarkets are 3 inch) but she runs twin back boxes underneath for DB levels (well below 90db) If she is 3", I presume this is min required for a single; can I retain the box. I am not big into a loud exhaust maybe If I am required to change it I could use the Apexi Exhaust Valve How would you get her through the MOT for DB levels?
  4. I had all those Q's answered before I started the thread; the simplcity of the Q is to compare what I was told is accurate to members experiences/advice But I keep on getting one member spamming my thread
  5. Very interesting thanks, single setup vary so much I am yet to come across a setup with just a turbo bolted on Maybe people just dont bother posting them up Over the years I , if here or supraforums I just keep seeing 600 is the recommended max on a stock engine's components. Just came to the conclusion people who run over this have a very limited run before a re-build but Homer 5 years on has put that to rest Last thing I want to do is put a T67DBB on and find out your engine wil need a re-build in a few months
  6. To be honest, I did my research Jamsey, Ricky, JamieP , and Ians analysis of a T67 vs T67DBB on Supra Forums. All these setups run above and beyond stock componets (cams, intakes, TB's). I got good feedback off here from Homer/Dan, Dude and Jamsey on email about there setups, which is a similar root I want to take and upgrade with intake at a later stage. Even parsing through all these threads, I an's analysis for example awas back in 2004 and I am sure turbo technology has progressed hughly since then. Its good to get peoples taughts on if a T67DBB is the route to go with the latest turbos out. That you cannot get from reading up on threads created back in 2004. I did talk to the company I am getting to build it but just wanted to double check here. I dont see the problem, if it bothers you then dont post.
  7. Dude, Nice Anybody I seen go single so far as pretty much changed all the major componets on the engine (intake, cams , TB) I just taught it was a requirement Didnt think you would get away with such a large turbo like a T67 on mainly stock items
  8. Wow, I taught you need all the bells and whistles to go single So all you did was get an aftermarket ECU, manifold and turbo plus a fueling system, larger injectors, uprated clutch ?
  9. I was under the impression intake/Cams/Fueling go hand in hand with a single conversion; I am refering to pistons , conrods, bearings, seats, studs (a non built block)
  10. Somebody has to give Ian in his Datsun a run BPU wasnt too far behind the TO4Z, you get him at the petrol pump and when he's on the phone ha ha Have to pick your moments
  11. My ignorance amuses me ha ha, thanks man
  12. I think the stock recommended is 600 bhp , I just taught they are put out over 600
  13. Can you run a T67DBB on a stock block? Does an intake (i,e Virtual works) make a big difference? If i get Oil pump, water pump, valve stem steals and associated pump/cam gasket seals replaced, what else is needed to keep her reliable for a single? When doing an oil pimp Colin said he will look at the bindings (i think is what he said) , they are in the bottom end? Thanks
  14. Only thing I like is the Red cam covers and the wheels
  15. Just reading up on the Optima Site -- Yellow top is for me if you have a Ford Expedition with an aftermarket alarm system and you drive the car every day, the OPTIMA RedTop would be the correct choice since the amperage drain will be nominal and the battery would be recharged on a daily basis. However, if you store the vehicle for long periods of time with the alarm system engaged, you should use an OPTIMA YellowTop since the amperage drain over several weeks would damage a RedTop and reduce its life.
  16. My redtop is dead ; I taught the yellow tops where far better; how long did you get out of yours?
  17. What are people running, I am betwen two models, if anybody is using these can they check my part number are what they are using , Optima Yelow top -- YT R 3.7 (BCI D35) Part Num: 8040-222 so far 165 pound is the best price I have seen with 40 pound delivery to Ireland-- 205 pound (234 euro ) Odyssey -- PC1500 they want 350 euro !!! or the extreme racing 40 but thei has M6 Stud terminals , not too sure how I can convert these to SAE -- 216 euro welcome Any taughts on price or battery to get thanks
  18. Thank Steve;it only started after I disturbed the dials to fit LEDs ;I will triple check the loom then run through your steps if that doesn't work.just too much of a coincidence for the speed sensor to go after I disturbed the dials. Has to be the loom
  19. The boost controller source is off the ECU, there is a break in the speed sensor loop between the speed sensor and the Speedo. No signal is getting to the ECU
  20. On the list thanks Check Fuses Check ODO wiring By-pass Check Speedo Loom again Cheek Speedo Sensor After that I am out of ideas
  21. When my speedo comes back online, what confuses me is the boost controller not also coming back online too in tandem with the speedo (Boost controller has a speed KM/H display) Based on the TRL didagram pin 13 on the Speedo Loom was a little slack (think it is Green /red) not too sure what this is for but I did tighten it up
  22. Very technical; the wire colors would of done me ha ha Thanks Marty, I will double check my wiring because I have this done hmmm onto the next step , Speedo Loom
  23. Becasue I got Code 42 error thrown First steps to trouble shoot is to by-pass the ODO buffer? Since we are in KM down here I am correct in joining the Loom pink side to a red/blue wire. after ECU reset if , Code 42 is still thrown ; Speedo (loom & unit), short circuit or the actual sensor are the next items to truoble shoot This reeally is turning into a pitta of a diagnostics; I am going to open up an SSI branch down south ha ha
  24. I am a little confused On the TRL Schematic it illustrates you join the Loom pink side to a blue wire On the Diagram off her it illustrates you join the Loom pink side to a red/blue wire Whats correct? TRD Schematic http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/dsc_speedo_mph.jpg Diagram off here attached
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.