Jellybean

Thanks very helpful; I have teh Sard Arouse exhaust(I presume most aftermarkets are 3 inch) but she runs twin back boxes underneath for DB levels (well below 90db) If she is 3", I presume this is min required for a single; can I retain the box. I am not big into a loud exhaust maybe If I am required to change it I could use the Apexi Exhaust Valve How would you get her through the MOT for DB levels?

I had all those Q's answered before I started the thread; the simplcity of the Q is to compare what I was told is accurate to members experiences/advice But I keep on getting one member spamming my thread

Very interesting thanks, single setup vary so much I am yet to come across a setup with just a turbo bolted on Maybe people just dont bother posting them up Over the years I , if here or supraforums I just keep seeing 600 is the recommended max on a stock engine's components. Just came to the conclusion people who run over this have a very limited run before a re-build but Homer 5 years on has put that to rest Last thing I want to do is put a T67DBB on and find out your engine wil need a re-build in a few months

To be honest, I did my research Jamsey, Ricky, JamieP , and Ians analysis of a T67 vs T67DBB on Supra Forums. All these setups run above and beyond stock componets (cams, intakes, TB's). I got good feedback off here from Homer/Dan, Dude and Jamsey on email about there setups, which is a similar root I want to take and upgrade with intake at a later stage. Even parsing through all these threads, I an's analysis for example awas back in 2004 and I am sure turbo technology has progressed hughly since then. Its good to get peoples taughts on if a T67DBB is the route to go with the latest turbos out. That you cannot get from reading up on threads created back in 2004. I did talk to the company I am getting to build it but just wanted to double check here. I dont see the problem, if it bothers you then dont post.

Dude, Nice Anybody I seen go single so far as pretty much changed all the major componets on the engine (intake, cams , TB) I just taught it was a requirement Didnt think you would get away with such a large turbo like a T67 on mainly stock items

Wow, I taught you need all the bells and whistles to go single So all you did was get an aftermarket ECU, manifold and turbo plus a fueling system, larger injectors, uprated clutch ?

I was under the impression intake/Cams/Fueling go hand in hand with a single conversion; I am refering to pistons , conrods, bearings, seats, studs (a non built block)

Somebody has to give Ian in his Datsun a run BPU wasnt too far behind the TO4Z, you get him at the petrol pump and when he's on the phone ha ha Have to pick your moments

My ignorance amuses me ha ha, thanks man

I think the stock recommended is 600 bhp , I just taught they are put out over 600

Plus bling

Can you run a T67DBB on a stock block? Does an intake (i,e Virtual works) make a big difference? If i get Oil pump, water pump, valve stem steals and associated pump/cam gasket seals replaced, what else is needed to keep her reliable for a single? When doing an oil pimp Colin said he will look at the bindings (i think is what he said) , they are in the bottom end? Thanks

Only thing I like is the Red cam covers and the wheels

Just reading up on the Optima Site -- Yellow top is for me if you have a Ford Expedition with an aftermarket alarm system and you drive the car every day, the OPTIMA RedTop would be the correct choice since the amperage drain will be nominal and the battery would be recharged on a daily basis. However, if you store the vehicle for long periods of time with the alarm system engaged, you should use an OPTIMA YellowTop since the amperage drain over several weeks would damage a RedTop and reduce its life.

My redtop is dead ; I taught the yellow tops where far better; how long did you get out of yours?

What are people running, I am betwen two models, if anybody is using these can they check my part number are what they are using , Optima Yelow top -- YT R 3.7 (BCI D35) Part Num: 8040-222 so far 165 pound is the best price I have seen with 40 pound delivery to Ireland-- 205 pound (234 euro ) Odyssey -- PC1500 they want 350 euro !!! or the extreme racing 40 but thei has M6 Stud terminals , not too sure how I can convert these to SAE -- 216 euro welcome Any taughts on price or battery to get thanks

Thank Steve;it only started after I disturbed the dials to fit LEDs ;I will triple check the loom then run through your steps if that doesn't work.just too much of a coincidence for the speed sensor to go after I disturbed the dials. Has to be the loom

The boost controller source is off the ECU, there is a break in the speed sensor loop between the speed sensor and the Speedo. No signal is getting to the ECU

On the list thanks Check Fuses Check ODO wiring By-pass Check Speedo Loom again Cheek Speedo Sensor After that I am out of ideas

When my speedo comes back online, what confuses me is the boost controller not also coming back online too in tandem with the speedo (Boost controller has a speed KM/H display) Based on the TRL didagram pin 13 on the Speedo Loom was a little slack (think it is Green /red) not too sure what this is for but I did tighten it up

Very technical; the wire colors would of done me ha ha Thanks Marty, I will double check my wiring because I have this done hmmm onto the next step , Speedo Loom

Becasue I got Code 42 error thrown First steps to trouble shoot is to by-pass the ODO buffer? Since we are in KM down here I am correct in joining the Loom pink side to a red/blue wire. after ECU reset if , Code 42 is still thrown ; Speedo (loom & unit), short circuit or the actual sensor are the next items to truoble shoot This reeally is turning into a pitta of a diagnostics; I am going to open up an SSI branch down south ha ha

I am a little confused On the TRL Schematic it illustrates you join the Loom pink side to a blue wire On the Diagram off her it illustrates you join the Loom pink side to a red/blue wire Whats correct? TRD Schematic http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/dsc_speedo_mph.jpg Diagram off here attached

I am getting code 42 thrown but I took out the dash cluster 2 weeks ago to upgrade to LED lights; the speedo is like an intermittented rev counter since. I did pull it apart but could not see anything wrong (cluster or Loom Pins). I just presumed because I disturbed the speedo and it only happened after; it is the loom on the speedo. But after we have identified the speed sensor on the Apexi AVCR boost controller is not reading maybe it is something ECU related? (This is the source of the connection) Colin did clean the gearbox mounted speed sensor and speedo worked for 20mins after then back to intermittented. But only in the last two weeks it is like a rev counter when it does come on before it was just either working or not. Now its either a rev counter or not working My car has the Sard Anaylse rom in the ECU , this is a FCD until 1.4 boost, speed delimter, down here we are in KM so no speed converter. Does the ECU have a speed sensor?

Thanks, my gear judge is set from last time I configured it via the speed sensor ; I did try to reset the unit but for some reason the unit will not reset??? But when I tried to re-do the gear judge (even though it had the previous settings) i cannot get a reading, constant 255. Also on a side note , I am getting code 42 thrown but I took out the dash cluster 2 weeks ago to upgrade to LED lights; the speedo is like a rev counter since. I did pull it apart but could not see anything wrong (cluster or Loom Pins). I just presumed because I disturbed the speedo and it only happened after; it is the loom on the speedo. But after we have identified the speed sensor on the AVCR is not reading maybe it is something ECU related? I will rip out the ECU and check it, but last time I checked they where all soldered into the loom so highly unlikely it came loose; maybe it is the ECU circuit speed sensor(I presume it has one) Next steps Re-position the Pressure sensor closer to the vac lines in the upright position Lube up the solenoid Take out ECU and check loom connection with AVCR and Speed Sensor