Jellybean

Boost controller is not reading correct boost, Defi guage has roughly 1.2 bar but AVCR 0.23 bar , I have her set on the lowest duty cycle , normally you would set it around the 60% mark I have checked all Vac Lines,, looks good; I am thinking it is the APEXi Boost Pressure Sensor, the screw in the head of it is rusted from last winter (controller is only 2 years old) Any way I can test the Sensor? It is 100 euro to buy but dont want to waste money. The Solenoid sounds as if it is working after I WD40 it, if anybody knows how to test it too; Its 125 euro. Or if anybody recommends a cheap alternative, to just keep her at 1.2 bar Thanks

Ones I have now are in the Supra a few weeks (off Irish guy but $$) but I only use it the weekends and now dont turn on the daytime lights; maybe I just got a bad batch from Hong Kong But the LEDS behind the Dash are all gone now but the petrol guage; just fed up pulling it apart and having to take out the head lamps to change the bulbs over and over

Everybody says that, mine just dont last; I also tried philps ones for 34 gbp and the winter killed them! I use them in both cars (supra ans Micra) its not the car!

Anytime I get LED off Ebay; I find they only last a few weeks/days

They are only about 25 gpb for a twin pack but the difference between them and normal bulbs is night and day, you get the 501 bulbs free too and delivery! http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_detail.asp?prod=111 90% more light than a standard OE bulb Up to 35m longer beam Up to 10% whiter light Up to 50% longer service life (compared to first generation Nightbreaker) Sold in a pack of two bulbs Fully road legal in Europe UV friendly - will not damage plastic lenses 12v 60/55w

I would also highly recommend Osram Nightbreaker bulbs, if anybody does not want to go the HID route and stay MOT friendly

I got them off Co-ord Motorsport in the UK 7 pound each excluding shipping (UK Volk authorised Dealer) Part number Ray15

E4 & ISO-9001:2000 Approved http://www.vvme.com/search-result?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_options=1&in_cat=141&zenid=21puq5s4s35in7o9ksci6lnkillljjqr&option_7=-1&option_1=11&option_30=-1&option_31=-1

http://autoholics.com/2011/09/28/2014-Supra--Rendered-571821?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=100311+NAPA+Toyota+Supra+Rendering&utm_content=100311+NAPA+Toyota+Supra+Rendering+Version+B+CID_fae52de11c219e89482b592f0ecb927a&utm_source=CD+email+newsletter&utm_term=Will+This+Be+the+2014+Supra Some recent Supra 2014 Prototype pics http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/09/27/new-cars-gt-gt-toyota-supra-concept.aspx

Tips for Storing your Classic Car When storing your classic car it is always a good idea to follow these tips, •Clean the inside and outside of the classic car including the boot and apply a good wax to the body. •Classic car convertible roofs should be put up and all windows closed. It is important to keep the soft-top roof up otherwise folds can occur. •Change the engine oil of your vehicle. Dirty car oil can be contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature car rust inside the engine. •To prevent rust in the car engine area it is recommended that a lubricant spray such as WD40 is used to coat all exposed metal surfaces. When evaporated the lubricant leaves a protective film on the exposed metal surfaces. •The classic car should be brought on a good run before putting it into storage which will evaporate all the appropriate moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. •Always make sure the classic car is fully dry and aired out before putting it in to car storage. A suitable cover is always recommended which can provide ultimate protection for your vehicle.

I checked it this morning , I dont have a clue where the leak is! Everytime I open the Rad cap to top it up she is full but yet the expansion tank has gone through 2 liters in about 1000KM ; I did get her completly flushed recently but I taught it might just need more Coolant. The rad Cap is a TRD one, it is about 2 years old now but as far as I can remember she is doing this since I got the car. If I let the expansion tank run dry and after a 100+ KM go to top up the rad, she is constantly full. No coolant is on the ground or in and around the engine area! Maybe it is the Vacuum hose between the Expansion bottle and the Rad but to me it looks all good. I gave her a good blast this morning so I will check the expansion tank coolant level again , and have another look around but from what I was told it is fairly easy to notice any coolant leaking. On a side note I did get a standard rad cap but id does not fit the aftermarket Rad, the TRD is a 1.5 bar cap, maybe this is the issue? The TRD cap does look as new

Hey She is eating the overflow coolant but to be honest running too cool ; around 78 mark. I reckon I need to do my water pump, car is 18 years old; I was going to do the Termostat too ; I have the fanbelt/Tensioner done , Cambelt was done at 80k KM she is now around 133KM; lower.upper Rad pipe is done but I might change the rad for piece of mind. Oil pump will need done at some stage cost effective to do oil pump, front/ rear crank seal? What else would you recommend to do?

Dont Forget the Alfa Spider!!! See a beautiful one in Sardinia! Wooden sterring wheel , blood Red like it should be

If its an Auto, it does not bother me if it is a 20 speed box but 7 speed manual is just getting ridicolous; you will need a HGV license to drive it

R32 GTR AE86 NSX Datsun Z cars Toyota LB2000GT Fiat 500 (old Classic Model) Alfa 155 MkI/MKII Escorts Honda S2000 VGS R34 NUR VSpec II Celica GT4 Rx 7 Spirt R (will fetch hugh money) MR2 SW20 Turbo FQ400 EVO DC2 Type R

The new 911 and Corvette are getting 7 Speed Manual Gearbox's; I think this is ridicolous, 6 max!

No wasnt turned on ; its against the etiquette of test driving

Good call VSV's ; all in all I think something is wrong with her and he needs to stay away unless he can get a Supra Specialest to give it the once over.

Just seen this in the check before buying a Supra guide off here; it ties in with how my car goes ; so the one in the Video ; something is wrong When you drive the car, the first turbo should be noticeable as a whistle, and the 2nd turbo should come in at 3800-4000rpm. You shouldn't be able to hear either turbo at high rpm. The engine should be louder! It's normal to get a slight hesitation as the 2nd turbo comes in but it should be very minor.

In the video nothing happens till 3500rpm, I reckon you dont hear any whine in the low revs becasuse not enough exhaust gas pressue is generated to spool the knackered Tubbie 1 but higher up the revs , the extra pressure spools tubbie 1. Due to it being knackered it whines like a Be-ach Sounds logical?

To me it is too high pitched and I dont know about anybody else but the whine in mine is more prodominant within the first tubbie; once the 2nd tubbie goes online between 3500 rpm-4000, the whine is hard to hear (may its the waste gate, louder induction noise dampening it out) This car the whine seems to get louder the higher you rev; but the whine is too loud and high pitched for me!

Maybe TTC mode?

My bad, 2nd tubbie comes in at 4500 got mixed up

Doe not sound like mine either, just sounds like the 2nd tubbie is coming in not the first