Jellybean

Does it matter how the blue dot on the top Mount's is positioned?

So, what you need to fit the OÉ top mounts 12 mm drill bit, I got a staggered drill bit Drill Wd40 Top nut on the kW is 19mm Secure the top mount, drill all the way through, front mount I found starting from the stud facing at you was easiest and the rear, with the studs facing away Wind off the lower collar on the kW Undo the top nut Remove the kW purple anodised cup The front mount you retain the oe rubber to stop the kW mounting cup from having the ability to move around(it will not affect the ride height) For ease of installation, wd40 the rubber, fit the kW cup mount Install back onto the shock and screw on The top nut The rear top mount, undo the shock top nut, fit into the kW cup and reinstall the top nut To protect against corrosion, I would also suggest to acf50 the top mounts at this point

I put that forward to them as an explantation , facelift versus Pre facelift The rear top mount , without using the rubber donut it has the potential for alot of movement and one nut holding it in place ; I could she it moving around on the top mount plate

Emailed KW Not particularly helpful, considering I indicated to them, I have oe Toyota top mounts I think if you do not use the rear oe rubber donut, metal on metal will cause issue ^KW response I have forwarded these pictures to the factory, they cannot see any reason why you need to drill the top mounts out other than Toyota possibly making a change to the top mounts since we had a car in for R&D or that the top mounts you have are possibly pattern parts and not the OE top mounts. Of course we do not know if they are genuine or pattern parts but it is just a possibility. ^ The R&D work was carried out by our American facility and they have said that if you leave the OE rubbers in the top mount then you may not achieve the ride height you wish. Plus we provide the new bump stops and dust covers so they advise that you still remove these parts as per our installation manual.

Thanks Ric I emailed KW for confirmations the instructions are correct Considering the cost of them , I do not like I have to drill out my new OE top mounts ; they should be machined to fit!

Thats what I taught , but the instructions said to remove the bump stop from the front OE top mount and spring pad/bump stop from rear ; Rear top mount there is no means of dismantling Maybe the facelift and pre facelift top mounts are different , instructions are based off pre-facelift ; I cannot see a reason the top mount will interfere You do not remeber what drill bit you used , looks like a 12 or 14

Am I right in thinking all I need to do is bore out the top mount a little ? Instructions do not make sense , everything fits together nicely without the need to remove any bump stops or spring pads

Hey Got a cheap Campark action camera , was looking for suggestions on software for basic editing The camera will be going on the motorbike for track days , but sometimes you are limited to where I can locate it ; it may be offset at different angles Is it possible to upright the image from any angle? want to do basic thinks like this thanks

Buy a TVR

yeah bi amp I was confusing the two Thanks, taught I was loosing it

Thanks

From factory the car has a narrow band sensor , adding the wideband ; will this make the OE narrow band obsolete or would the ECU still make use of the OE narrow band? I presume unplugging the OE unit will have zero affect to the ECU

Thanks , I only have the 2 speakers ; will do this for the interim The receiver has 4 Terminals for each crossover (Surround terminals, left/right) , but in the diagram on P25 it also states to connect two speaker cords to the speaker terminal on the receiver Does it make sense to you , to me the 4 speaker cables have a terminal each , no need to double up on a terminal

Is anybody on here ,into their AV ? I bought Pioneer LX82 -- got it for a steal http://docs.pioneer.eu/Manuals/SC_LX82_ARB7422_manual/?page=8 AC Acoustics 3050 Speakers https://www.qacoustics.co.uk/q-acoustics-3050-floorstanding-speakers-pair.html#specs Recommended Power: 25 - 100w, Crossover Frequency: 2.6kHz I know its a multi channel amp , supports 7.1 but I am going to run it in Stereo for now Reading through the manual , P25 of the Manual , is Bi-amping/Bi wire is the best setup? I what I don't comprehend , the receiver has 4 Terminals for each crossover , but in the diagram on P25 it also states to connect two speaker cords to the speaker terminal on the receiv [ATTACH=CONFIG]227615[/ATTACH]

Cody make Brackets to suit Digital Hall sensors , maybe an aftermarket speed sensor would fit ; I am sure other cars run a similar analogue speed sensor Try the Lexus SC400\430 , a number of suspension parts are compatible with a facelift Supra http://codyphillipsracing.com/store/store/cp-racing-cnc-wheel-speed-bracket-digital-hall-sensor-front/

Was going to fit the KW suspension ; all came to an end when I seen the top mount The car is 26 years old , it is a serviceable item; check them out next time you have your shocks off ; my car passed MOT , no knocks or bangs

I just got the blueprint , one of the cheapest ; saw the febi but it’s hard to tell if they are any different in terms of quality I had OE and they are substantially more expensive

The drop links on the car are around 2K miles old , I can count on onw hand how many times it was used in the rain and never in snow,winter... Are the OE items a poor design , using an allen key to prevent the stud from spinning so you can crack loose the nut Other than covering them in ACF50 or covering them some how , is there a better design out there? At what point would you require Adjustable drop links?

Sold

Open to Offers!

Great thanks , I have so many specialists tools at this stage ; I should open a garage

Thanks Chris , I might be onto you later in the year about a pump

great progress and thanks for keeping it techie! never knew what a Souriau fitting was

Thanks for the advice , and taking to time to respond! Decisions to make

Thanks , will give it a go