Jellybean

What is a normal BPU expectation at the Wheels?

Malcolm , can I just ask you about your current setup I presume you are running Bosch 044 Fuel pump at least or twin walbros? Cams ? Syvecs S6 ecu on 98 or 95 RON? Water injection Stock Jspec Tubbies @1.2-1.3 bar Has Ryan developed the Plug and Play Supra Version yet, he was also talking about making it fit in the OEM Supra ECU box Would anybody have a normal BPU graph as comparison?

Syvecs if you can afford it (as above) but Apexi AVCR HKS EVC Greddy Profec B are all good

Not too sure what the SRD kit uses as terminals but the 35 version can facilitate SAE terminals

I think alot of memebers have tried to find an updated key (VW Style) unfortunetly I dont think anybody has found one yet

Me personally, I would get the Mapper to select the ECU; if I am ever fortunate enough I would get either RyanG or Dimitri to map her. Not too Sure what ECU Dimitri uses

ProEFI 128 ECU seems to get good praise too ; I think the big advatage is it is Flex Fuel Capability http://www.proefi.com/Supra.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?627628-ProEFI-128-vs-AEM-Series-2-EMS

I would like to say they are an excellent product but I dont have any reference point or other experience with Supra LSD's; I know Paul Whiffin ran them in time attack. I am sure he knows how they compare to others and if they are worth putting up with the frequent oil changes. I am sure it all comes down to if you track your car and will make use of it, I presume on public roads it is pointless but I must say compared to other peoples LSD's I have seen, they are silent, no chatting, progressive , allow predictable control. Alot of people say Supra's are twitch and unpredictable but I find mine predictable and stable especially in the wet ; if it is down to the LSD I just dont know. Even when you come near the 3k KM mark , you just notice the LSD is a little clunky at slow speeds until the oil warms up(I still would not hear it though) but some fresh oil and she is a smooth as silk again. It drives like an OEM component. Its not undriveable, just not as smooth, a little Jerky if you leave the oil in. But in the real world Trust me, it is a real pain in the arse ! and an expensive one! When I get the chance I will get a TRD LSD. It would not be too bad if I had access to my own ramp free of charge but doing it on the drive is too messy, deposing of the Oil etc not worth the hassle. I was driving my car daily so I had to change the Oil every six weeks hence why I think they are a pain in the arse. In saying all this I could not tell you how often you need to change a TRD LSD though or any other Supra LSD on the Market, but I think it is at at some sort of acceptable mileage , cost vs. advantage of having an LSD Hopefully Paul will comment on what he thinks of them, he is the man to ask!

I dont have a clue, all I know is mine starts getting a little noisy and clunky after about 2500 miles , I found it deteriorated quicker if I use the cheaper Motul PA90 mineral oil versus the Castrol Oil fully synt. It gets very expensive (best part of 60 euro to get 2 liters of the castrol oil before paying to get it changed); the car came with the diff but if I was buying one I would get the TRD. It is a racing diff, stupid for road use in the sense of the frequency of Oil changes required!

If you do get it , here is what oil Carbonectic Japan told me to use All you need is GL-5 85W-90 oil for your LSD. If you cannot find that, the following will be suitable for the LSD; used Brand Name products name Viscosity FR BP X9140S 80W-140 FF BP X9118S 75W-90 FR/FF NUTEC UW76 75W-140 FF ADVANTAG NEO Hi proof shock FR ADVANTAG NEO RHD 75W-90 FR/MR A.S.H 250R 85W-140 FF/FR TOTAL PRO-R 75W-140

I run the ATS carbon aka Carbonetic carbon LSD ; you have to change the oil every 2000~2500 miles (this is what Carbonetic told me when I asked them) Just get the TRD Diff! http://www.carbonetic.net/tech/pdfs/LSD_Universal.pdf

If you find out what it is can you post up please , thanks graham

I had very similar symptoms ; higher gears 5th, 6th, revs sometimes shoot up; happenned once or twice but has since gone Getting it looked at towards the end of the summer! hopefully it holds up till then

The weather over here is like Autumn!! Holding off till end of the month to put the car back on the road

Mine has grey carpet and Black roof liner

Awesome! Chris, Gald the weather was ok!

Please do, looking for numbers !!!

Do you reckon the "Other" drivers where told to make it look good Crazy car , but for fun I think I would prefer an Ariel atom V8! and keep the change!

When my friends car came in from Japan he got the importer to do a gearbox oil change, the importer put in Redline Manual gearbox shock proof oil, The selector seal went in her after a week of sitting up with the oil in the car (was not driven), if it is just conincidence I dont know (age of the car) but I know it definetly was the completly wrong oil and I did read numerous times on the web the redline eats seals in our gearbox; even Chris has a caveat on the Motul he has for sale Because Don was acting the tool doing burn outs even though I told him it is the incorrect oil, he ended up spinning a bearing after about 3 weeks of having the car here I am sure the majority of ATF fluids will be OK, but I am using Royal purple to be safe , definetly do not want to rebuild a Getrag $$$$ I have her 4 years 10 months now, no gearbox issues

A high percentage of Supra owners , drag Supra's run Royal Purple without issues for a good few years now; I would just stick with Royal Purple If the oil caused any issues, I think we would have gearboxes failing left right and center I too bought the Motul ATF off Opie Oils based what tim saod but my Supra Specialist advised against using it as it was not used widely in the Supra community or proven to be reliable for our gear boxes like Royal Purple. I stuck with Colins advise and my gearbox is still running strong a 4 years on, plus a few 1000 Supra owners have gone through a few changes now I never heard of any issues with the Oil causing failure

Hopefully Chris Wilson will give us some advice! Using Forza 4, Hockenheim and a stock Supra I dialed in some suspension settings , ( looking for a fast road setup but not too harsh on tires) First up OEM SETUP **Please let me know if this is incorrect FACTORY ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATION Front: • Camber - 0.5 degrees +/- 0.75 -- I used - 5.0 • Caster +3.5 +/- 0.75 degrees -- I used +3.5 • Toe 0.00 +/- 0.80" (2 mm) -- I used 0 Rear: • Camber -1.50 +/- 0.75 -- I used -1.50 • Toe 3.0mm Toe In +/- 0.080" (2mm) -- I used +3 http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html http://www.suprastore.com/alignment.html Taughts: I found her hard to handle, alot of steering input required to keep her in the direction you wanted to go, very tail happy ; To sum it up I found it was a good Drift Setup Next up is lance_alignment http://www.mkiv.com http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html Front: Camber - 1.0 degrees Caster + 5.0 degrees Toe 0.00 mm Rear: Camber -1.5 degrees Toe in (total) 1.00 mm Taughts: She handled alot better than OEM above, a little oversteer at times but as a n overall package she was progressive in corners , stable on the straights. Only negative point is I would like the front end to feel more planted and go exactly where I want it to go. Dunks Setup Front Camber negative 1 degree Caster 4 degrees Toe in total 0 degrees 7 minutes Rear Camber negative 2 degrees Toe in total 0 degrees 27 minutes Taughts: I found this setup the best out of the three, you can pin point where you want to put the car, stable at high speed , minimal Oversteer ; predictable. As an overall package this is what I would use. How all these fair on tyres I don’t know, I do have issues with the front inner edge on mine so I suspect best option is to stay as close to 0 front toe as with OEM setup to minimise the wear. How accurate Forza is versus real life I don’t know but it’s interesting how she handles with the different settings

Give me 4K!!! Will get new Volk GTC's with the correct offset when I can afford to! 2-3 years ha ha

Ha ha , no just testing wheel clearence ; car will remain static! But I reckon see will take another 5mm

Thanks Colin , But I reckon my 5, 1 mm washers will do ! Plus they are Free Thanks for all the help , going to play it safe and get H&R spacers, they are roughly 240 euro for all 4

Last Q, I have 10mm on the front but I think a 15mm will work better How can I test a 15mm will fit without issue? I dont have access to 15mm and the H&R rep here said they wont open the packaging on the spacer incase it doesnt fit I presume just add 5, 1mm washers behind the wheel? and see if she still sits within the arches