Jellybean

I must admit, I am tempted to sell mine and buy my mates Low mileage prestine R32 GTR that is in storage last 3 years It is more practical in the sense I can get it on a ramp and it has some what sensible ground clearance; really am fed up trying to fine a ramp to get her on! When you have to drive 2.5 hours to get an oil change!

I think I am running the 1.5 TRD rad cap , nearly sure its not the 1.3 ; but i have a copper core rad , twice the size of stock I am BPU running stock ECU with a SARD analyse ROM , on road temps since I put in new Toyota 4 Life coolant are about 85 degree mark; on track about 93-98 mark around a small low gear twisty track. I am not sure if the car is running a TRD or OEM thermostat; I presume OEM On track I did notice the overflow coolant tank was overflowing; it is not a stock unit as my Greddy overflow plastic bottle failed(broke apart in my hands one day) so I have the plastic tank out of an Accord; (same capacity as Greddy)! Might be a good choice for me to drop the Rad cap down to a 1.2 bar? Any advise on Water Temps, rad cap pressure , overflow tank please; my Defi temp sensor is the top rad pipe

Hi Ian I went through the whole EVAP system, blowing through hoses etc to see if any leaks , none! I did notice on the check valve the silicon hose was rather short for my liking so I replaced all the hosing but I dont think the seal was compromised by the short hose. When I tried the Map sensor it was not fully clicked in , so I just pushed it in till it clicked on the intake connector! I reconnected the Idle air Ref hose after I replaced the check valve hoses ; and no issues; took her for a spin , she boosts fine no engine light, over fueling ; I presume with the Idle air ref hose connected the MAP sensor comes online or is more sensitive at idle because the Idle air ref hose is dependant on the MAP sensor, I presume for the Idle? Why the car was not illustrating the same symptoms regardless if the Idle air ref hose is connected or not is a bit or a puzzle; because I did drive the car with the map sensor not fully connected to the intake loom and see did seem to run fine when the Idle Air ref hose was off but not good with the Idle air ref hose connected. Maybe replacing the Check valve hoses and the hose up by the fire wall helped too but from what I could find from blowing into the pipes , they did retain pressure (no leaks) As a treat Ian , I made this Video for you http://youtu.be/qyYvFiHFeK8

Pit Strut! http://youtu.be/oLWRS8uj98I

She is working! Thanks Ian owe you a few beers! Looks like it was a loose MAP sensor connection ; what puzzles me is the car appears to work fine with the Idle air Ref hose disconnected even though the Map Sensor was loose but as soon as I connect the Idle air Ref hose the Engine light , over fueling, rough idle all kicks in. It is a bit puzzling! why the car does not over fuel with just a loose Map Connection! Why it needs the Idle ref hose connected I dont know!

I will be going with Samco if I am getting any ; thanks Guys!

Thanks Ian, I might re-mount the oil cooler; it was setup like that from Japan ; I just had to replace the oil cooler because the seam weld on the Greddy unit failed But first time on track the other day so might give it another spin but I was happy with the position for road use

What Water Temps should I see on a track with lots of low gear work at slow track speeds. I have my defi alarm set at 100 degress , she sounded once or twice but cooled down within a few seconds after I drove on Is 100 degress a good point to set the Alarm for water temp? the sensor is located in Whifbitz supplied Greddy Polished Allloy top rad hose I have a 19 row Diftworks Oil cooler (MPH Performance oil cooler) installed too with Greddy Sandwitch plate and oil filter relocation kit; the oil cooler is located behind the noise of front bumper infront of the Intercooler just above the open mouth of the bumper; good location? I dont have an oil temp sensor so I presume it is cool enough; any good oil temp sensors recommended? Defi have has since discontinued the Control unit 2 setup

Thanks Dunk! You dont happen to know the mm size for the vacuum hoses used by Toyota?

Thanks Nic IC and radiator hoses are done Just looking into vacuum and the other big ass hoses near the firewall at the top of the head Seriously difficult getting to the hoses on the VSV below the intake!

Thanks Nic So is Samco , vacuum hosing ok or is OEM better quality ; I remember Chris wilson saying alot of these kits are not as good quality they just have nice colours!

In the Diagram, I dont have a Vacuum Switching Valve between the h pipe (Map sensor & Gas filter) & Fuel regulator Plus I dont see one in your pic hmmmm; maybe USDM thing http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13939&d=1112558977

Thanks Ian , will give it a go tonight Triple check the h pipe under the manifold , but from what I remember the EVAP outlet Hose goes to the h pipe; the two hoses from the h pipe go to the VSV ; whick would mean , instead of one fo the hoses going to the check valve in your diagram it is get rerouted back to the EVAP outlet circuit Reason behind thinking it was a hose pop-off is, the car started overfueling after I came off boost for a slow corner back onto the main straight; as soon as I tried to put the foot back in she started trying to die on rpm & overfueling. I was under the impression a MAP sensor will not just suddenly die, maybe the heat for the engine bay's morning session got to the MAP sensor. But I was only doing about 5-6 laps and letting her cool down with the bonnet up for min 30-45 mins between. Then again she is near 20 years old and heat is what kills things. Leave it with me! I am intrigued to what it is!

Thanks but is that the correct URL?

The idle air reference hose, I traced down to a "h" Steel Pipe , the two hoses off the end of the "h" (from what I could feel , buried under the mainfold intake and I tried via under the car but the oil Relocation kist is in the way to see anything or get hand in there) go to a VSV (you can see the two imputs in the VSV in the pic); Intially I taught a hose pipe popped off but they are connected plus I cannot feel any rips or tears on the pipes. Diddo! Yes , The idle air reference hose was plumbed in! But this is where it gets interesting. It was plumbed in not via the Idle air ref hose outlet but via the MAP Sensor --> Fuel Regulator section! The Defi guage and Boost controller was plumbed in via the The idle air reference outlet OLD setup Boost controller was plumbed in via the MAP Sensor --> Fuel Regulator section (Garage who I got the car off & fitted the Boost controller did this) Defi Boost guage was plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet Idle air reference hose was plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet Trackday setup **My Defi was plugged into the The idle air reference outlet; due to an inaccurate reading between the Boost controller and Defi; I swapped them around. To run them off the same source to get an accurate reading on the two units Idle air reference hose was plumbed in via the MAP Sensor --> Fuel Regulator section Defi Boost guage was plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet Boost controller was plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet Current setup Idle air reference hose DISCONNECTED Defi Boost guage is plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet Boost controller is plumbed into the The idle air reference outlet

Correct! Correct! Thanks for all the help! I think we are getting somewhere!

Will do thanks , and I will get you the overhead pic when I get home. For argument sake if , she is running ok after I check the wiring ; will I just leave the Idle ref hose disconnected and forget about it because she is running ok?

This is done! since Friday to get home I replaced the Black (Fuel Pressure Ref hose) with a new Blue one as the black one was brittle from age I had it setup like this on Friday at the track day to get home; just the boost controller running off the idle air reference hose outlet ; she appeared to run fine. I also took her for a spin on saturday and she boosted as normal ( I didnt give her the full WOT but did go to 4K - 4200K rev's) What I am more concerned about it is the reason behind the issue, should I just run with the idle air reference hose disconnected; surely just disconnecting it is masking an issue?

Thanks Ian, I got pics too!

Current Setup Idle air reference hose Output Yellow hose is Defi Boost Guage Blue Hose is Boost controller Idle air reference hose -- DISCONNECTED Fuel pressure Reference Hose (Blue ) is between the MAP sensor and the Fuel pressure Regulator

Blue Hose , is the hose I replaced

Sorry for the confusion Ian The Idle air reference hose goes down between the Cam cover and the Intake mainfold to a steel pipe , he feel like a "h" shaped pipe alright(I cannot see it as it is under the manifold) ;then the "h" shaped pipe goes off to the FPR I reconnected the EVAP system Last nite (Idle air reference hose) ; just to try repro the steps and to see if I could generate the issue again ; I also noticed an old pipe in the EVAP system I replaced (Hairline cracks on the ends; pipe is over near the clutch resevoir , off the piping along the rear of the Firewall) but the issue was still present. so I disconnected the Idle air reference hose again after I captured the engine codes**. **At the track day the engine light did not come on , when the issue first arose; after I re-connected the Idle air reference hose last nite & replaced the old hose , the engine ight came on. Photo above is of my car as of now

Hey Does Toyota do a hose replacement kit? I would like to replace every rubber hose from Water pipes to Vacuum hoses! I suggested it under product suggestions in the Whifbitz and SRD Threads a good few weeks back but have not seen anything yet The hoses on mine are 19 years old at this stage so they are coming to the end of life. Would you need to pull the engine to do all the rubber hoses?

Cool , Glad to be of help! I am in a pickle and I am at a loose end on what to do next; SSI (supra specialist Ireland) is 2.5 hours drive away so I am trying to do everything I can first to resolve the issue. What has me confused, is why she boosts ok with the Idle air reference hose disconnected; I would of taught this will create a boost leak? Diaphram in the VSV is preventing any boost leak? My other concern is, obviously this hose helps circulate the fuel vapours via the Charcoal canister ; with it disconnected I will get a build up of petrol vapours,Will this damage the Engine? or will I be heading down the motorway with ACDC on full WOT in a ball of fire!