Jellybean

I was able to get the oe brake master at a decent price but reading up on this, users have noted, you don't notice the booster is gone after the intial drive Would like to try it myself so played it save Is it common the gasket between the booster and brake master, weeps? She is 26 years old

Any implications of this? OE brake booster and master is expensive http://www.titanmotorsports.com/brake-booster-eliminator-for-toyota.html

I never use the OEM valve. They break vs an aftermarket bends. I don’t use the supertech because the exhaust valve margin is not correct and they didn’t make up for it on the top side of the valve. So what this means is the valve sits more flush in the chamber, and the lash, spring height is off. So, we have to work extra hard to fix that with tipping the valve and shimming the spring. No thank you lol 6000 series is good for up to 800whp. Then we move onto the comp plus.^ David Localio HeadGames Motorworks

Did anybody come across 2j having issues with aftermarket valves, owners returning to using OE? I was advised by an engine builder here to use OE If you get the head refreshed, do you need to recheck after a few Km? Valve clearance... Thréad for ref https://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12601825

Hey Is anybody interested in getting something with zircotec coating? In the past they offered 15 percent discounts for clubs

Hey Do you know what the Sump bolts are ? M6X15 1.0 pitch? Ones on there are rusted , will get stainless Qty 16?

55223-14040 is, the other is discontinued

Does anybody know the correct part number, seems to have two 55223-14040 55210-14400

Why not ? I asked for one

Anybody come across a precision turbo Compressor Map, Exhaust flow chart?

Few of the Rally Guys here are using this company, no issues with the coating Unisurf Engineering Mac Business Park Barnard Road Bradford West Yorkshire BD4 7ED United Kingdom Anybody from Bradford know of them Chris & Nick ,

Thanks for the replies ANDREW that intake came out stunning Will stick with OE, maybe get a different intake in tge future Will keep the funds in the budget

Does anybody know , what is the reason behind using Tyco Automotive Relay Chassis Mount, 24V dc Coil, 300 A

Very nice!

I like the natural finish , I just want to clean it up

I read of an 8000 rpm limit on the pulley?

What do you recommend?

One of the RB25 guys got his intake vapor blasted After further research , I will keep the OE intake ; might be worth putting the cash towards DBW

To name a few, Plazmaman Hypertune CPC Sleeper designs The issue with after market intakes is the length of the inlet runners , longer runner favours low RPM torque versus a shorter runner , higher rpm performance (not ideal for the road) I know we have to compromise , most of us go with an aftermarket intake to trick out the engine bay at the expense of low end torque I have two options CPC Carbon intake OE intake , vapor blasted to tidy her up Questions For members with an aftermarket intake , would you retain the OE intake if you had to do it again Is any of the aftermarket intakes , from quality perspective; hands down better than the rest? Does any aftermarket intake , lend itself to more low than torque versus others?

Alot of A-holes work in the centres , with zero customer training ; it does state in the NCT manual a car with an lsd should under go the Decelerometer Test not the rollers I have Recaro's in mine (non Factory) , they said nothing ; shows how inconsistent the test is - - - Updated - - - Alot of A-holes work in the centres , with zero customer training ; it does state in the NCT manual a car with an lsd should under go the Decelerometer Test not the rollers I have Recaro's in mine (non Factory) , they said nothing ; shows how inconsistent the test is

Thanks Last year I put a titan oil pump on her, new water pump, valve stem seals Going single, since she is 200k, was thinking best to get a refresh Was thinking of getting a prebuilt engine from the UK, states I rather not have the car sitting up, with the engine pulled,out in the elements Maybe get the engine pulled and drop the car back into storage

Is either more cost effective? Other than maybe quick turnaround time, but you are also loosing a matching numbers car Off the shelf built engines , bottom end or head ; what additional items do they need ; did anybody get one? i.e. Are the core plugs replaced ?

Just patience really , took me the part of a day, going slow Lower part of the Rear seat out, fold down the upper , start removing panels (taking care of the clips) ; I remember , it s a 10mm nut on the strut The most fiddly part is swapping over the struts , the boot is heavy ; ideally somebody to support it , just be careful it does not come down on you , it will knock you out I used a broom handle It is also a good time to upgrade your rear speakers if you wish to , easy to put on some dynomat with the panel off

I know but Better than destroying the engine bay