Jellybean

Hey Does anybody know what options are available to replace rusted top struts? Was looking online and came across elite tech talking about making replacements but i taught Nissan had a part available?

Based on the 650MKII Best results is doing this in an empty car park during the day. Switch the alarm off. Press G5 three(3) times. Then press * (single star). You're now in the menu for the full sensor for the likes of rain/wind hitting the vehicle. Use the Boot button to increase sensitivity and the *(single star) to decrease. The alarm will chirp/beep with every adjustment, it'll get higher and lower with different setting. Next press the **(double star) button. The alarm will chirp once. You're now in the menu for your warn away zone. Stand as close/far away from the car as you want the sensor to pick up. Each time you adjust the sensitivity up or down it will chirp higher or lower depending which way you're going. If you're within the sensor array, the alarm will give the "ergghhhh" proxy noise. If you're standing at whatever distance you're comfortable with and the proxy noise is not going off, then the warn away sensor is not picking you up so you either need to move closer or increase sensitivity. When you're happy with whatever way you set it, press the lock/unlock button to lock in your settings. The alarm will chirp twice if they're locked in. Then press it again to leave the menu. The alarm will chirp 3 times to confirm you've left the user mode. Alternative: Best option is to turn down the sensitivity. If you hit G5 twice and then press the boot button it will fully arm with the exception of Proxies, Omnisenser and glass tamper. The alarm will still go off if there's an impact to the bodywork, ignition tamper, door lock/handle tamper, bonnet tamper, boot tamper or tilt sensor or power interrupt. You can still have blackjax enabled.

The UK diff casing has heat sink cooling fins But both TRD diffs are different 10 bolt 200mm crown and pinion (Jspec casing) versus a 12 bolt 220mm Crown and pinion I have reverted back to an Aristo OEM diff , I had a carbonetics 2 way in there ; big difference in predictability, control and no matter how slow you try to take off in the wet from standstill she spins the inside wheel Was going along the motorway between a bus and barrier in the wet, ended up going sideways on boost between the two, with the carbonetics she just hooks up and goes, no drama , only steps out when you want her to.

Endless CCX, I don't think its a problem just annoying

Yep UK Brakes!

That's what I taught first but no

It normally at slow speeds (20KM) coming up to a stop but just the very odd time, that makes sense the pads moving

Hey What is the explanation for the clonk noise when you brake , I think it is got to do with the Anti-shim Sequel units removed for a better pedal feel?

TRD do a 1.3 bar high pressure cap, reason behind the high pressure cap is to keep the coolant in the system longer to allow it to cool more ; just go Stock OEM as the high pressure will result in unnecessary pressure in the system and put unnecessary strain on the heater matrix/Components Long story short go with what Toyota says 1.1 bar ,I think its safe to say they know what they are talking about http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_radi-cap.html

Never heard of a 2jz head overheating? this sound correct?

1.1 Bar Toyota OEM

If you need hub/Spigot rings to fit the Supra 60.1 bore http://www.part-box.com/products.php?search=60.1&osCsid=ad21093ee4be9936b1ec7fabfef5efc3

Could be! I am not too Sure

Eoin is a VAG mechanic and by what he went through on putting the belt on (setting the Cam markers etc turning her over by hand 3-4 times), I doubth its the belt; just something stupid like a ground The fuel pump is not priming and no spark

these Guys will probably get you them the cheapest http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/

H&R PartNumber:20656014 Width: 10mm Thread Type: 12x1.5 Center Bore: 60.1 Bolt Pattern: 5/114.3 http://www.hrsprings.com/application/search/results/37/614/2010

Talking to my Evo friend, The Evo is finding its fuly open/Closed throttle body position Wonder what it is on the Supra?

Hey What is the clicking sound when you turn off the ignition (Happened once), heard it on my friends Evo too on Sunday Sounds like it is coming from near the firewall, maybe its the boost controller solenoid? Similar to this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?132630-Clicking-sound&highlight=ignition+clicking

Thanks again!

Good points We still need to paint the cage so the Dash is still out , was hoping somebody would say; Yeah having the Dash disconnected from the loom will break the circuit So what I was thinking Paint cage, get it done and dusted Install dash, reconnect to loom Check the Crank position Sensor as you said Hopefully see if it works

thanks James, will do , but we were thinking it just seems like too much of a coincidence no?

Hey We are painting the weld-in rollcage in the car so we have taking out the dash, disconnected the Dash from the Loom etc, we changed the TBelt Q: The car wont start , she turns over but wont fire up; would taking out the dash cause this? The Fuel pump is not priming and the no spark, check all the fuses , all are fine,all engine sensor connections look good, nothing is loose

Anybody come across any non-tackie looking Vacuum hosing , the boost junkies/Samco looks cheap and tackie

Just need some Advice Currently have an Aristo diff in the car as the Crown and Pinion or Carrier Bearings went in the Diff casing, she is not as predictable in the wet / dry without the Carbonetic 2 Way diff Option 1 I have sourced a big case TRD Diff with the pumpkin Casing too for 650 euro with warranty, but mileage is unknown, she is getting taken from an Aristo (as far as I know) being broken, The Diff mount bushings need replacing too at roughly 100 euro each so 200 all in, plus the TRD Diff; 850 minus Labour (Worse case 1100 with Labour) Sell my Carbonetic diff and Big Case spec Pumpkin Option 2 Get all new OEM bearings to rebuild my diff casing , roughly 600 euro including the Diff mount bushings and put the Carbonetic LSD back in. (Worse case 900 all in with Labour) My only reservations is the Carbonetic diff needs an oil change every 3000 miles, reason why I was going TRD. But at least with option 2 I will be 100% on the condition of the bearings in the LSD casing. Not too sure what to do! Are the LSD Crown & Pinion / Carrier bearings a common failure and anybody hear of a TRD diff requiring a rebuild?

Group hug