Jellybean

Interesting On http://www.osgiken-jp.com/eng/products/superlock.html Part Number: D-TD102061405-S notes except '93/5 to '96/5 6spd not too sure even if they do an LSD for a 1993 TOYOTA SUPRA @JZGTE 6 Speed (JZA80-ALFQZ)

OsGiken Super Lock LSD **Not too sure if the output shafts are modified? Output Shafts: http://www.rhdjapan.com/toyota-oem-differential-output-shaft-24020-aristo-supra-soarer-60904 LSD: http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-1-5-way-super-lock-lsd-spec-s-jza80-jzz30-jzz31-uzz30-60873 Brand: OS Giken Product: Super Lock LSD Spec-S 1.5 Way JZA80 JZZ30 JZZ31 UZZ30 Part Number: D-TD102061405-S PRODUCT NOTES: - Required for all vehicles: Toyota OEM Output Shaft (41309-24020) x2 needed for installation COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - JZA80: Only for Vehicles before 5/96

Thanks again Chris Looking on the Supra Forums site ; they highly recommend the OsGiken and a lot of guys like the Carbonetics 1.5 way or KAAZ but I came across some members having issues installing the OsGiken ; most people that have experience with multiple brands of differentials seem to prefer either the Carbonetics or OS Giken over everything else http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?653740-Carbonetics-Carbon-LSD/page2&highlight=carbonetics http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?620218-Stupid-LSD-Questions&highlight=osgiken+lsd http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?562632-Which-LSD-is-best-for-road-racing/page2 Interesting OsGiken Install Issues http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?693386-OS-Gilken-Diff&highlight=osgiken+LSD+install This has to do with proper installation of the OS Giken Super Lock LSD and a mod that is apparently required for some JZA80 diffs to make it fit right, but it's not clear to me what diffs need this mod. On their site http://www.osgiken.net/techcenter.php Long story short, the actual axle stubs that Toyota used with these differentials have a surprising amount of variety, considering the consistencies everywhere else in the car. For instance, when installing a clutch type LSD in a Supra or Soarer that came with the 200mm diff and a factory LSD, the axle stubs from LSD-equipped cars are slightly too long for a proper fit with a TRD or other clutch type LSD. For the most part, this is usually taken up by tolerance creep between parts and no problems are experienced, and the tension from the installed axle halfshafts themselves usually keeps the axle stubs in place, but this sometimes becomes problematic when wheelhop, etc, is experienced and the axle stubs actually pop out just enough to induce a gear oil leak, and because of that possibility, many LSD makers list a need for the factory Toyota OPEN differential axle stubs to be used when installing a clutch type LSD. Since the 220mm diff as found in the pre-'minor change' JDM 6-spd TT models (which includes ALL of the US TT 6-spd's and European delivered TT big diff vehicles, I should mention) always came with a Torsen LSD, the axle stubs are also slightly longer than would be used with most clutch type LSD's. The TRD LSD was probably designed to accommodate those stock axles, but because of possible fitment issues, OS Giken has published this just in case a tolerance issue arises and those axles have occasion or cause to pop out under wheelhop conditions, etc. As long as your LSD is working normally and no leaks or problems with the axle stubs popping out has been experienced, I'd say you're probably just fine. But if you go back into the diff for any other reason, probably wouldn't be a bad idea to take the stubs to get milled down as shown in the pics to ensure that it never becomes a problem later on. Cliffs: If you've got a clutch type LSD in a 220mm diff, and you're experiencing an issue where the axle stubs pop out after hard launches, high speed pulls, or after wheelhop, and thus cause an oil leak, pull both axle stubs and have them milled in accordance with the pictures. The TRD LSD was probably designed to accommodate the stock axle stubs though. If you're installing an OS Giken Super lock into a 220mm diff, you might as well have your axles modified 'while you're in there' during the installation. The modified axles will not affect the stock torsen LSD should you chose to revert to the OEM Torsen for any reason.

http://www.osgiken.net/products.php?Category=toyota&SubCat=supra&product=lsd&submit.x=49&submit.y=16 I see they have two part numbers For 6mt , I presume 8.5 inch is small diff casing and 9 inch big diff cading

Lol, Chris; I am more into circuit racing too not a big fan of drifting but just trying to guage is the osgiken worth the extra cash, its nearly an extra 40%

I found my 2 way Carbonetics to be fine for every day use, no hopping etc just the oil change intervals is why I am getting rid of it. She stuck to the road and in the wet/ dry instant traction compared to the open diff I have in it now. You could make her step out if you wanted to , but you are in control as opposed to what I have now, she does try to catch you out. Just curious how the TRD drives compared to the OSGiken, can you get oversteer in the OsGiken 1.5 way too if you want. Just want something fun to drive out of a corner but when you want some spirited driving or something you can put down some BPU levels of power in the wet. Plus a realistic or close to OEM maintenance, maybe too much to ask?

On the TRD website, they said all FR cars are only 2 way and the Vitz is the only 1.5 way & FF selective http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_lsd_mechanical.html I was asking about the TRD vs the OsGiken after I seen Chris mentioned it before; I heard the OsGiken can tend to hop versus the TRD. I am just looking for something civilized for my car too with an acceptable oil change interval. OsGiken sounds like the oil might be an issue to get D-TD102061405-S Spec-S OS Giken Super Lock LSD 938 GBP off Nengun http://www.nengun.com/os-giken/super-lock-lsd The TRD Diff was around 550 GBP off RHDJapan last I checked, site appears to be down now

Sand and salt are probably the two worst thinks for a car lol

Sorry darragh , not a chance I am putting my car near sand

Cool beans , I bring a tow rope for when he brakes down

Darragh can Ian come in his r34 datsdun ztune thingy

Yep clarion in Carrick

I have an aristo diff in mine at the moment and as far as I know using the same drive shafts; the big diff was in her

Booked the hotel today !

Thanks Homer, great help

Is the TRD mechanical LSD , 1.5-way selective, and can optionally be switched over to a 2-way without any additional parts ? From what I understand all FR TRD diffs are only Two way ? What oil to People use 75W 90? How often do you change the oil? What is the Difference in Having a UK spec casing versus JDM? Crown and pinion Ratio? UK spec has higher top end and JDM quicker acceleration?

Cam Seals, Cam Breather pipes and a Fan belt in six years and she is a 1993 About 40 pound? Crown and Pinion Bearing went about 2 months ago in the LSD Casing so not too Sure on $$

OEM Part Numbers http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

What you going for ? CCW classics?

See you there, this going to be a long trip to Portrush from Dublin! https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/17510_4585879545039_1725431551_n.jpg Darragh Colin Marty bondango Jim Jamesy Carlo

Hey We have an Mx5 with Sparco Sprint V's; the passenger side OEM seat rail chassis mounting points width's are less than the Seats mounting points. For example Width of OEM Seat rail mounting points are 30 cm Width of Sparco Seat mounting points are 33 cm So the Sparco seat mounting holes protrude 3cm further out on one side, missing the OEM rail mounting holes by 3 cm Just from a safety point of view what is the safest option Mod the OEM Rail chassis mounting holes to allow the runner move 3 cm further out Mod the OEM Rail to have a plate bolted/welded to the top of the runner but it will extend 3cm so we can mount the seat Buy Sabelt side mounting runners, but we need to measure and see if it will allow us the extended width we need to use OEM mounting chassis points; or is it safe to weld the rails to the floor? Sabelt runners http://www.murraymotorsport.ie/assets/products/2086/product/steelseatframes.jpg

The little MX has electrical problems, spend 8hrs on her yesterday! You could say the MX5 has 2 engine looms , one half of the loom is attached to the Dash and the other to the firewall, to make things easier for us we disconnected the loom from the Dash and took the dash out of there so we could trace and diagnose issues a lot easier. The only items not connected are the two footwell lights (either side of the centre console) and cigarette lighter (all three are integrated to the dash) but these will not cause the car not to start. Issues Early morning Scenario · The fuel pump was priming and we had dash lights ( was a ground behind the passenger dash area) · no spark · Could not find any continuity within the harness between the ignition coil loom pins and the corresponding ECU loom pins ( forget the wire colors but I can get them) · No relay clicking · No revs on the tacho when trying to crank her Current Scenario · In order to trace the wires for the ignition coil we removed the dash and harness from the dash, reconnected everything minus two footwell lights (either side of the centre console) and cigarette lighter · Now we have no dash lights, Charge, Brake .. but it will show the symbol if we turn on the headlights, indicators · No fuel pump working Any advice, we are thinking a relay is gone, fuses are all fine , inside and out plus all grounds are triple checked.

Thanks!

Found oem parts on rhdjapan for reasonable money Difficulty welding in old ones is finding a clean r33

What is the going price for an oem uk diff/casing and a uk casing with TRD diff