Jellybean

I asked MVP and Titan motorsports, both got back to me saying the same thing; Koyo I would go OEM or a Koyo Aluminium, I put the Koyo on the car a few weeks ago; fitment and quality was excellent

Volk GTC Face 2, which I have happened to distroyed the look bt putting a 285 tyre on versus the 275 in the pics http://marinimotorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/1.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/487817_2939891876376_2107525842_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/226720_1548121242980_919313_n.jpg

Quick Q: Looking at the spec for my car on the sheet, the Left and right rear toe, camber tolerances/Range are the same so why you would have different settings? I presume they both axles settings should be as close to one another? Rear Axle Driver Camber: 1 42’ Toe 0 13 Passenger Camber: 1 30’ Toe 0 07

Thanks! This year is an expensive year, Diff crown and pinion bearing,Diff mount bushes need to be done too, Radiator last month too, Camber or lower arm this month! I am slowly rebuilding a Supra lol will let you know what it is, I am curious now ! MOT (NCT Ireland) on Wednesday too

Thanks for all the detail I am not too sure ,Its 15 euro for the adjuster; so will go prepared; it is what Wez wants me to replace. As far as I know the Super Pro have 2 different bushes for the Supra, one normal or to OEM spec and a 2nd with camber adjustment; you can choose between the two versions based on your needs

We cannot rotate it all the way around, just seems to seize up; i had two separate garages look at it and they both said it is the adjuster; I got the Super pro front bushes on there about 5 years ago ; I hope it is just the Cam adjuster the lower arm is $$$$

Hey Dunk Yeah that's the thing, on the drivers side we cannot get the full scale of movement, we cannot get it to adjust to its Max setting. In comparison to the passenger side we are not able to get the same scale of measurement from the drivers side, I would put it down to wear and tear; on the car now over 20 years

When it gets to a certain load , the Adjuster will not adjust any further; it is like the bolt is threaded ; so we could only get to X degree with the weight of the car on the Suspension, taking the weight off the car we could get one or two more turns on it The thing is FUBAR, my explanation is not the best

I need to replace the Driverside camber adjuster for the lower arm; it is FUBAR Just ordered one up and will head back down for another alignment Out of curiosity, on the Toyotdiy Toyota parts list , it identifes the part as RH and LH ; what corresponds to the drivers side? LH or RH, is it taking the perspective of looking at the car head-on or from the rear?

I need new Driverside, camber adjuster for the lower arm; it just spins; had to take the weight off the suspension to adjust it; getting new ones this week

Hang on I have a print out somewhere, it was set to Toyota Supra OEM, what the machine had Taught it was strange alright the two sides are different, I taught maybe it was setup that way to counter the camber in the road; I only drove the car about 80-120 miles since

Thanks Dunk, She only got aligned about 2 weeks ago so hopefully can keep her in the green

If I get wheels again they will definitely be the correct offset , and I see what you mean by using extended studs and a slip on spacer ! As far as I know , the Project kics are the only spacers in Japan authorized by the shaken (Jap MOT equivalent) Reason why I purchased them

All Supra TRD diffs are 2 way, only certain models like the toyota vitz have a switchable 1.5/2 way I have gone from the Carbonectic 2 way to an Aristo diff, big difference ; the car is unpredictable, more so in the wet with the torsen diff; traction is an issue too The 2 way , I found I had more control over the car, you can get the power down earlier, predictable in the wet. Over a power upgrade I would definitely get a 1.5 or 2 way LSD Can wait till I get it back in the car

I am running my car on Project kics bolt on spacers for 7 years now, no issues

After some more investigation, it is only the passenger side rubbing (tyre angle and load on the Suspension dependent) Looking at her from the rear, the camber angles are different on both sides , the top of the drivers side tyre tucks in about 1-2 mm into the arch as opposed to the top of the passenger side tyre. This is why it is rubbing on the passenger side A 20 mm spacer will push the wheel too far in , would it be possible to fix this with an alignment?

Question: Shoiuld the spacers not have a new stud on them like the Project Kics? If you are using a 20mm spacer and the original studs, they would be too short ? http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/kics_spacer.jpg

Hey Has anybody bought the H&R DRS Spacers, they don't have the Supra listed so I presume we use the Lexus GS300 as an example Looks like it ticks all the boxes Bore: 60.1 Bolt Pattern 5/114.3 Bolt Type: Stud Bolt Thread Type: 12x1.5

Thanks! I will try see if a 20mm spacer is around to mock up

Hey I have a 10.5 width wheel with a 25mm spacer, 275 & 285 widths are ideal width's I went from 275 tyre to a 285 tyre for more rim protection , but now she rubs on harsh bumps I didnt think the width would be that great of a difference What are my options other than buying another two new 275 tyres , drop to a 15mm spacer? I was thinking with a 15mm spacer you are moving the width under the arch, but can the it handle moving it closer to the inner arch wall

I have mine done about 2 years now, used Fabric spray with a UV protector; still as black and the dye never came off http://www.fabricspray.ie/shop/upholstery-spray-paint/midnight-black https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/541349_369270716442254_970458022_n.jpg https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/294952_369271206442205_622827940_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/540645_369244703111522_1258244767_n.jpg

Stunning cars! But in saying that my other friend had a 650 hp R33 GTR built by river-tec racing in Japan and he had no issues at all in 3 years of ownership but he rarely drove it. But I think she is still going strong in Moldavia or all places it went to. Not too sure what it is with Skylines and Ireland, I think i am the only one that saw the first Fast Furious down south LOL Reliability, build quality and $$$ for aftermarket parts is what puts me off; though I wouldn't say no to the Rocky Auto C110 Skyline

LOL Jim

My Friend has an V-Spec II NUR Ztune kitted T04Z and HKS V -Cam Pro R34 , R32 GTR with HKS V -Cam Pro R33 GTR He likes Skylines! My other friend has an R33 GTS-T, a third friend has an R33 GTR Vspec Compared to the Supra, as stunning as the cars are ; what lets them down is the build quality, the quality of metal used is not the best and prone to rust, out of my three friends they all had their engines rebuilt and every second month something goes, all friends have various issues with the cars today, suspension to Cam sensors, fuel pumps etc The R34 Vspec II Nur TO4Z was has gone through 4 or 5 blocks now I have lost count I have the Supra over 7 years and only two things have gone; Crown and pinion Bearing in the diff casing and an after market Radiator leak last month, she is on 150,000 KM. A Skyline just seems to be one issue after another, I have yet to come across anybody in Ireland who has not had their Skyline rebuilt since it was imported, unless it is just a trailer queen I would like to own an R32 one day, you need to have deep pockets! I was fairly disappointed in the R34 and its 700hp, my BPU Supra gives you more of a thump in the back ; the R34 gets there faster but not as brutal. She just seems to glide up to speed, very refined

thanks guys, just out of curiosity; if you buy the whole arm do you also get the Camber, caster adjusters? or just the arm and the balljoint , you re-use you camber.caster adjusters