Jellybean

Quick Q, should Toyota still be able to get it? I looked up Toyodiy and do not see anything listed on there regards part number Titan Motorsports and Whifbitz seem to be the only guys that have it

I got diff bush mounts for 120 delivered with vat / duty versus 200 euro off Toyota Ireland via MVP

Any chance these would vibrate out after the first long drive? Just paranoid now if that was the case

Heres oem parts and diagrams , I normally look it up for a price comparison and get them via MVP But Toyota Ireland is not bad, cheaper than uk shops these days http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=359669&ukey_product=2064407

If you find out let me know Dude lol

Sure is for the road, Toyota used spherical bearings in the rear top arms and a rod end on the rear toe control arms Toyota did a good job Even Poly brushing the OEM arms is a step back

The rose joints on the Ikeya Formula will need changing a regularly , they make sense for track

I read KW but I sure am sure CW will know

Garage did the work , I took them off and painted them but wanted to leave it to a mechanic to put them back on

I will never doubt you again lol

Shims are still there but the lower calliper bolt was half way out and the top bolt hand tight ! Lucky !!! I tightened up the Calliper, check all the others and took her for a drive, minute vibration(Might be me being freaked out now lol) and zero clunk noise's

Thanks ! Stupid Q but how do you tighten them lol Something missing in there? I have change Brake pads before Going down to look at it now, what should I look out for?

More info I was trying to replicate the noise by modulating the brake pedal at slow speed, she clunks when you press the brakes or going over a bump (I.e. Ramp) May a loose Calliper

Thanks guys, Forgot to add i just got the wheels balanced, front wheel vibration is there; I dont know if they need to be rebalanced or if something in the suspension is causing it Maybe a symptom too of a balljoint gone

Hey I get a dull clunk/thud passenger side when I hit a pot hole or bad bump in the road Car was off the road for 6 months , back on today and it did not have this before Work carried out while off the road, front brake discs and Brake Caliper refurb Any idea's/suggestions?

Sorry Chris my bad

Few guys running it on here well before me , I never read anywhere people having issues with this oil, I did read of people using mtf specific fluid (redline)causing excessive wear If you are sceptical just get the Toyota oil, I don't to be blamed if anything happens I just read the spec of the oil and recommendations from other members , made a decision to run it

Hey Goal: Single 600-700 at some stage I tried searching but could not find a definitive answer , my Crank pulley will need changing soon. Should I bother looking at an aftermarket pulley, ATI or Fluidamper Crank Pulley? http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?558853-ATI-vs-Fluidamper Do the ATI's need rebuilding every 1-5 years? What is the best pulley? I presume you need a different belt to run these?

70 euro seems to be the going rate

Thanks Nic, yeah I have the Project Mu SCR Pro discs on the front, just rears I am after - - - Updated - - - thanks David - - - Updated - - - thanks Chris

Looking good Jim Just need some engine bay pics and interior

Hey I Have an 93 car, she had the 12 bolt 220mm Diff from Factory (AKA UK Spec) , she has UK Brakes all round How do I know if she has UK rear brake rotors? They are different sizes to Jspec, does anybody know the diameter of UK and Jspec Rotors? On a side note , does anybody make a rear Brake rotor where the bellhousing doenst rust over time? Can you use any 2 piece rear rotor with OEM UK 2 pots, brembo, AP racing etc? Only rear brake Rotors I can see are OEM Rotora Stoptech Blueprint Black Diamond Does anybody have any experience of the Stoptech, cross drilled rotors look like a nice piece of kit http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Merchant/catalog/jdm/t/supramkiv/p/stop/OED.jpg

With the Engine off it has small play in the pedal (on/off switch, rock hard) so I expected it to have more travel after I turned the on engine But she is too spongy (too much travel) when the vacuum builds up, an air noise too when you depress the brake pedal , best I can describe it , it is like depressing a bicycle pump, shhhst sound We took her off the ramp and outside to test, but the pedal is too spongy to stop the car \ engage the brakes enough to stop safely

Hey Quick one too, just did mine the weekend , (open nipple, slowly have someone press pedal to floor, once fully depressed, close nipple, slowly release pedal. Repeat.) The pedal was very hard with the Engine off , turn her on after the bleeding is finished , she goes spongy Will Bleed it again, but is this common when bleeding a system?