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Everything posted by Jellybean
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Sorry dude was just agreeing with what you said Probably sounded like I wasnt
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I was just wording it more politely I just put in for a price for OEM ones , cant be too $$
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Plus no reason to remove the pulsation dampener on a BPU car The pulsation damper are included in systems primarily to control the noise induced in the fuel system due to the opening and closing of the injectors....it serves a useful damping purpose just expect negative effects to your bank balance and increase in Noise from the fuel system, noise is most noticeable at idle and light load low engine speeds. Stop reading Marketing propaganda from US/UK sites about bypassing the pulsation Dampener will increase fuel flow
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Trackday: Shining rotors, brake cooling, pads and driver input please
Jellybean replied to sCaz's topic in mkiv Technical
Carbone Lorraine pads are a good call too -
For me, I would get OEM Turbo Link pipes , if the Whifbitz piece or Silicon is like the lower Rad Whifbitz pipe, it is very thinly layered; I replaced it after a few months for an OEM lower rad pipe, difference in quality was very noticeable
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why do you need an FPR? Why remove the stock OEM fuel line? Save your money dude
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thanks for clearing it up
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Subscribed out of Interest Just my general 2 cent is the VVTI has more low end torque , not too sure if noticeable and the other preconception I have is VVTI has less Aftermarket parts available for it and the VVTI may be a restriction in how far you can tune the car within $$ reason due to its complexity I stand to be corrected
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http://www.independent.ie/life/motoring/car-talk/classic-cars-of-the-rising-sun-30537600.html Classic car prices are on the rise. You only have to look at the results of Barrett-Jackson or Bonhams auctions to see this, with pristine (and sometimes not so pristine) cars fetching serious money. The boom in prices is being fuelled by investors and speculators no longer believing that property values are as safe as house. - See more at: http://www.independent.ie/life/motoring/car-talk/classic-cars-of-the-rising-sun-30537600.html#sthash.T6spWreD.dpuf However the rise in prices does mean that those who are not CEOs of Fortune 500 companies are being priced out of the market. Forget the headline grabbing Ferrari 250 GTOs and Jaguar D Types, have you looked at the prices of MkII Ford Escorts, E30 BMW M3s or even Mercedes-Cosworth 190e recently? So where does the classic car collector look to? Soviet bloc cars are interesting but are something of a niche market with limited appeal. Instead you have to look further East, to the Land of the Rising Son for what many analysts believe will be the next boom in the classic car market. There is already evidence of this with the Toyota 2000GT – Japan’s first supercar – also becoming Japan’s first million dollar car while models such as the Mazda Cosmo 110s (Mazda’s first rotary engine car) and first and second generation Nissan Skyline GT-Rs regularly fetching in excess of €100,000 at auction. To get in at rock bottom prices you have to think more mainstream, more mass produced, more along the lines of the Datsun 510 or KE27 series Toyota Corolla. The products of late sixties/early seventies both of these cars arrived at a time when buyers this side of the world prayed that their Morris Marinas, Austin Allegros and Hallman Avengers started in the morning. Reliable, robust and plentiful the 510 and KE27 are ideal entry ways into classic Japanese ownership. Of course humble hatchbacks do not get the blood coursing for all; some simple want a sports car and those people need look no further than the original Toyota Celica or second and third members of Mazda’s RX line – the RX3 and RX5. With looks inspired by American muscle cars this trio are mechanically simple with less to go wrong; until you get to the engines of the Mazda’s that is. Both the RX3 and RX5 are primarily known for their rotary engines though regular piston engines were offered (in the related Mazda Grand Familia for the RX3). These unique engines will hold special appeal to some buyers while also scare some off completely. Of course for a true Japanese sports car icon you cannot look past the Datsun 240Z. The first of Datsun’s Z cars it was considered a rival for the Porsche 924 at the time of its launch in 1970. Unfortunately prices for early 240’s has begun to rise helped, in no small part, by Nissan purchasing, restoring and reselling 240Zs during the late nineties. If you are going to consider a classic from the late nineties there really only is car worth it – the Honda NSX. The Toyota Supra and later generations of Nissan Skylines may attract more attention but neither of them can claim Formula One inspired technology and a close association with one Ayrton Senna. Designed to go head to head with the Ferrari 348, NSX prices have never tanked out like those of the Skyline and Supra and are slowly beginning to rise again as those raised on Gran Turismo begin to get into the market. If you want you you’d better move quickly. - See more at: http://www.independent.ie/life/motoring/car-talk/classic-cars-of-the-rising-sun-30537600.html#sthash.T6spWreD.dpuf
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I got my Rays Volk GTC wheels done this year , just the barrels (lips) ; Volk have a lacquer on the polished lip, to get them refurbed they remove the lacquer and can re-apply but I was advised against it as the Lacquer can have a sort life span and start to peal or pit . I have no lacquer on them now , I was concerned with water marks if the car was left sitting after rain ( just unrealisitc to dry them everytime you park up). So far so good , I would just recommend you wax (Autoglym HD -- hard wearing) them every 1-2 months, dont use the gtechniq c5 wheel armour, if anything it took the shine out of mine. To save a few $$ , I dismantled the wheel myself and just handed off the barrels as the center spokes did not need any attention. I got mine done in Ireland so no use to you but you get the idea. Maybe also a taught is to get the inside barrel polished too (behind the wheel spoke), easier to keep clean https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.600129850074512.1073741830.119947121426123&type=3 https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/970812_606443599443137_656250096_n.jpg?oh=e5fbb6af8fe13944ce2620fe17cbed96&oe=54734B50&__gda__=1415408962_d919686510172ed16e1a711bcab98aa1 https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10006207_606443716109792_1500675709_n.jpg
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Halfrauds , I just use Toyota Black 202
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Pics of the Window Bump stops , you can adjust , two 10mm Bolts , from what I remember Rear glass Front Glass
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Only after Market ones are Billet Aluminium Press in Or Weld In (.i.e. Power house racing) If you want a rubber bush only OEM is available, they are about 150-170 GBP for the pair Toyota Cushion for 1993-98 Toyota Supra TT Part # 41651-14020 Toyota Cushion for 1993-98 Toyota Supra TT Part # 41651-14010
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Os Giken TR2CD Anything drive train, they have the best products http://osgiken.net/products.php?product=trseries http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?530437-How-good-is-OS-Giken&highlight=OS+giken+clutch
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thanks , Probably one of those things is hard to explain ; I will get photos if I figure out how to do it
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Can you adjust them, hopefully you can? Just checked there, fully closed, when you open the door it catches the Window frame, and again when you try to close the door , just afraid the glass may shatter I need to fully close the window and toggle the switch for a second to lower the window a 1-2mm to open close the door , not very practical and bloody annoying Can only find these threads but I think I need a pic of where to adjust the bump stop http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/archive/index.php/t-134699.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-354586.html
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Quick one If I put the window up and the door is open the Glass sits too high and hits the Door Frame by 2-3mm anyway I can adjust it so the window will stop a few mm short? Bump stop or try adjust the screws that hold the glass in place?
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Was on the 20th Anniversary Supra run, great sound , stunning car
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Thanks dude , car is safe now
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Tip for refitting the window , lightly tighten the three bolts , up and down the window so it will align itself then tighten up the bolts
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All fitted , the plastic roller that sits into the motor chewed the threads on the roller causing the cable to get tangled Part number I got was 69801-14111 Was 85 euro
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Just got the new part, looks like a revised model compared to what is on there , the cable loops through the two pulleys as opposed to having the cable in the top pulley with a lead stopper on the end of the cable Asked the parts manager and he said it was revised back in 06 , they use to retail for 200 euro
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Cool , thanks for the heads up ! Just ordered one off Toyota Ireland this morning , will be here by 1pm 65gbp + Vat not too bad
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So heavy duty one lol I seen it in B&Q, its is thicker than whats on there now
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Hey Will some plastic dust sheet do and tiger seal/silicon from the local DIY or is this some sort of plastic with mystical magical properties http://www.woodiesdiy.com/images/productImages/medium/Decoreze_3_pack_3.7m_3.7m_plastic_dust_sheet.jpg