Jellybean

Anybody Tempted Here is your chance to have that iconic T51R sound while utilizing the latest and greatest turbos from Borg Warner, Precision and Garret! The outdated T51R and it's unmistakable whistle is known worldwide. The turbo however is a bit dated and with new billet wheel options on the market it is all but obsolete. Have the best of both worlds now with the OCD Compressor Cover Service! You must send in your compressor cover to have the service done. Typical turn around time once they receive it is 48 hours.

Nice! I got the Pulleys too , but in raw finish , post up a pic when they are on , hard to fond pics of them installed

Hate to disagree Digsy , I too ran with no spigot rings for the entire 9 years-plus with conical wheel studs without a hitch but I always had issues with wheel vibration over 100km/h as soon as I got the Aluminium spigots the vibration went and the front steering tightened up , more direct steering and faster direction change If you need hub rings , like with most aftermarket wheels the Bore of the barrel does not match the OEM bore , get steel/Aluminium ; From Mr Wilson never use plastic or similar , plastic ones are NOT suitable. the wheel studs should work *ONLY* in tension and see no vertical shock loads at all. They will *NOT* centre the rim properly without them if the hole in the rim is bigger than the snout on the hub. All shock loads should be taken through the hub's "snout", via the well fitting hole in the centre of the wheel.

See what you think Chris! http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/supra-v160-rebuild-process

Yes Look at the video http://www.trakplus.com/what Lightweight Hard Anodized for durability and corrosion protection Superior strength proprietary aluminum/magnesium alloy Hubcentric for perfect fit and precise wheel alignment 100% Made in Germany

Seriously Dude , why are you looking at Ebay and not the H&R website link I gave It is a DRS type spacer http://www.trakplus.com/install DRS INSTALLATION TIPSclick to hide - Remove wheel and press out wheel studs. Replace stock wheel studs with new longer H&R Wheel Studs. Place TRAK+® Wheel Spacer on hub of car (over the new studs) making sure that the spacer is fully seated and flush with the hub. Place wheel onto the new studs and firmly seat against wheel spacer. Fasten wheel with original nuts. Carefully hand turn nuts making sure that they spin in easily so as to not cross-thread. Repeat step 5 with the remaining nuts. With hand wrench, snug up the nuts in a star pattern. Before fully tightening, spin the wheel and tire to check for any noise or interference. Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench set to wheel manufacturers specifications.

Try looking at their site , I already gave you the "Link" and your welcome by the way

DRS Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones (studs are included). It is hub centric

H&R do them http://www.hrsprings.com/application/search/results/20/366/1998/ 28 These are hub-centric flat disc type spacers which require the factory hub to center the wheels. Please measure the vehicle hub to verify sufficient height will remain to center the wheel after spacer installation.

thanks dude got it for 12 euro

Awesome!

where did you guys buy yours?

Anybody ever get the ebay ones? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/2JZGTE-2JZ-CLEAR-CAM-COVER-TIMING-BELT-COVER-TURBO-CAM-PULLEY-SUPRA-JZA80-DRIFT-/161465512271?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item259818314f

Thanks for the reply , will be in touch when I am getting one

Cool Thanks Chris!

How does the kit know when the turbo's are at X bar and water meth is required? Is it wired into the ECU?

Will have to look at that , the noise for me is right beside my ear , the corner of the glass meets the rubber ; I think it just needs to press in more against the rubber to seal properly

Thanks Chris , I will stick with OEM setup so

If I bought a Syvecs , with regards new firmware, can a user update this themselfs or do you need a remap, bring it over to you guys or just leave it as is on the firmware it was mapped? I am sure you have a fairly decent base map for a 2jz, can you remote map the car to tweak it or do you need to map the car in the UK? As I am in Ireland and only 95 octane is available here plus bringing the car to the uk will add on greatly to the expense , the option to remote map it or send you the logs to tweak it would save me alot of time and money

Hey Is there any nice bolts you can get for the pulleys , Titan do nice cam pulley bolts but shipping is crazy

Is crank case pressure just marketing propaganda

I am getting my cam covers polished so want to weld in the 12 AN fittings prior, what every members suggest , I just read run them out the back Just not paying for some fabricators holiday based on the prices of these Aluminium units Any advise welcome !

Anybody have a pic of a breather setup , -12 pipes run to atmosphere , vent to out behind the diff I read is the best option? PHR / whifbitz stuff is crazy money for a little box Where do you get the -12 AN fittings to weld onto the Cam covers?

Do you mind me asking , what price you talking for Syvecs fitted and mapped? Whats the new model coming?

Any sale this year Lee I would like Polished 4 Piece Billet Pulley Kit w/ idler for 2JZ ATI crank pulley Modifed OEM 2jz oil pump Breather Kit Polished Valve Cover Set RHD Braided High Pressure Power Steering Line Engine Bay boxes 2JZ Billet Shock Arm