Jellybean

I was looking at the dehumidifier,but for low temps you need a Desiccant dehumidifier, continuous drain , they are about 200 and 10p per hour to run , considering the fans pull in air from the unsealed garage ,I assume it would be running 24/7 Estimate 30 to 40 pound a month to run , expensive I was looking at 20mm rubber gym floor tiles ,may help Will try 7kg of silica cat litter in the carcoon , see if it helps, cheapest option

Purchased a carcoon this year , got a hydrometer, over the last few days I am gathering data Reading up, a carcoon is primarily about controlling the dew point , my understanding is when the air temp equals the dew point temp , air is 100% saturated , condensation, fog can occur https://www.carcoon.com.au/how-carcoon-works/ Over the last few days The carcoon air temp is 5.7 degrees, 66.9 relative humidity and 0 degree dew point temp , low risk of condensation Carcoon Garage It was up at 15 degrees in the garage with the sun out and 49% humidity Garage It got interesting when I seen a big shift in temps , 2 degrees to 14 degrees within 12 hours (allegedly the carcoon has its own controlled climate , compensates for the temperature swings , in theory it should not see a big swing in temps within the bubble , resulting in no condensation) Unfortunately, it has not done its job, Aluminium parts have condensation on them, Aluminium has different chemistry so I assume different thermal properties to steel but still, defeats the purpose of it , Occured at Carcoon Note: steel does not appear to have any condensation Conclusion to date I am still on the fence , need more data It will stop damp rising from the concrete slab , stop rodents I read 55 to 60 is the relative humidity required to stop rust , need to research if high relative humidity environment is ok once the air temperature, and dew temperature do not coincide , high humidity but no condensation I purchased another hydrometer to put in the garage as a baseline, I can compare the carcoon environment Vs garage , carcoon in theory stabilises it environment, no temperature fluctuations, no condensation, mould ; interesting the difference, if any in data points It is basically a plastic bag with two pc air fans , I am sceptical I cannot find anything online contradictory or factual data to back it up, long term users vehicles have no rust but I have not come across any who stripped a car after use , I am more concerned about unseen areas not directly exposed to the air flow of the fans I could put a dehumidifier in there but it's expensive to run and carcoon state you don't need one Will try some silica cat litter, it may reduce the humidity or maybe nothing outside of a dehumidifier with these big temperature swings

Replaces the upper glove box

Thanks

Do you need to remove the windscreen to fit the wiper cowl?

Trac ecu was gone, just unplugged

Location UK, Leicester

Did anybody ever come across carcoon doing a black Friday or new year sale ?

Did anybody come across one or have a part number , I wonder will a LHD fit , I think they are part of the loom I presume RHD is discontinued

Bump

Just trying to help, for support and reliability ; may even work out cheaper putting in a link pnp ecu and digital Hall sensors

Considering majority of owners run an aftermarket ECU and the OE ECU is starting to fail with age Not consider running Digital Hall Effect Sensor, CP Racing was making a CNC Supra MK4 Wheel Speed Bracket for Digital Hall Effect Sensor These CNC brackets are meant to house a Digital Hall sensor to give a cleaner “square” wave digital signal to your ECU. The OEM ABS sensors on the MKIV are a magnetic sensor which tend to drop out and give incorrect wheel speed information to your ECU. These changes can cause a misread in traction control, gear position, rpm limit, and boost control depending on your tune. With a Digital Hall sensor you will always have a crisp clean reading even at the lowest speed to give your ECU the most accurate information at all times. No more ground or drive speed drop outs!

DIY build no ? You spent alot of cash on parts , would not like to see you have any issues

Why do you have Pistons and Rods sitting in the block prior to seating your crank and torquing down the main caps? , you want to ensure the crank moves freely before installing piston and Rods You guide the piston and rod onto the connection rod journal from the top of the cylinder via a piston ring compressor tool , stops the rings bending or breaking Why did you not put it on an engine stand when installing everything , make life alot easier measuring clearance and reduce the risk of making a mistake , damaging anything