robin

And here is a link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUPRA-PURE-SPORT-FLOOR-MATS-/200617324868?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb5b97144#ht_500wt_1060

It also fits perfectly into the space for the clock.

You can have fun for free, buying gold allows you to go premium so you can earn XP faster. No real ingame benefit, only takes less time to progress with premium. You can also buy premium tanks which basically get you into a good tank without having to work your way up from the bottom but as all the teams are point mached its again no real benefit. Just a time saver. The only thing I wish wasn't a premium only feature is forming a platoon

I'm not in a clan. Just a lone rouge player who occasionally jumps into a platoon when someone stumps up the cash for some gold. I have been working the russian tech tree and at the moment im rolling in a fully upgraded KV and T-34.

Anyone on here play? It's pretty addictive and pretty awesome for a free game (unless you buy gold) http://game.worldoftanks.eu/

Only 92.6Mb

I have just had the car on an alignment machine as I appear to be getting inside wear on the front tires. The rears wear evenly. Unfortunately they were unable to correct the rear toe as a couple of components are seized and need replacing. Would the current setup (attached) be likely to cause tire wear like this? Do the target settings on the machine look correct? Wheel Alignment.pdf

Kill it with fire?

Sounds like a problem with your router/isp if it is occurring on other computers too. Maybe use the open DNS for now and have a chat with your ISP?

IMO ehiem pumps are very good. Wouldnt bother with fluval or anyone else.

I have the UK headlight washers and the bolts are so corroded I cant undo them so I can see me having to remove all the hoses as well. I have removed other bumpers before without even thinking, but theres just something about the supras, plastic clips, covers and radiators everywhere.

Really, so you got the intercooler off and back on without removing the bumper?

I bought a spare 2nd hand SMIC which is in good condition from somone who was fitting a big FMIC. However I have never got round to fitted it. Taking off the bumper looks like such a chore on the supra.

There are a number of bungs avaliable online and on ebay. https://www.tyagiracing.com/products/BOV-Bung-Plug-19mm.html?setCurrencyId=4 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CNC-ALLOY-HOSE-BLANKING-BUNG-PLUG-BOV-DUMP-VALVE-19mm-/270577734459?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3effb0933b However I have refitted the original dump valve. I ran the car for a day with two champagne corks as makeshift bungs to see if the car boosted any better and I can honestly say I noticed no change at all in the sound, boost level or anything. So I am now turning my attention to other areas, eg intercooler unless anyone else has any ideas as to why im boosting a little low? (0.5 on 1st and 0.6 on 2nd)

Thanks for the info, I purchased some marine grade 19mm ID rubber hose which fits perfectly. After reading through the workshop manual and re-testing the bov I think it is working OK and I have refitted it. As the new hoses were straight bits its now mounted sideways as I couldnt really get it to sit in the original orientation without kinking the hoses. I have also been going round replacing every bit of vacuume hose I can but the car is still only making about 0.5 bar on the first turbo and 0.6 on the second. It pulls well, no smoke and there is a definate exhause note change as the 2nd turbo comes on so I think the sequential system is working OK. It will also make positive boost from 2k rpm on even very light thottle so I think the turbos themselves must be at least reasonably healthy (Or am I deluding myself?) My next port of call is to check the intercooler and its hoses. I seem to remeber reading a post where somone used a big inner tube to test the intercooler but I cant find it, can anyone remeber what it was?

I have removed my bov to try and test it as I suspect it maybe a bit leaky and the hoses are rock solid and I feel need replacing. Blowing through the bov I was able to push a small amount of air through in one direction so I think its likley to be shot. Does anyone know what ID the two larger bov hoses are? Do I even need a BOV? If not what is the best way to block the holes?

not to worry, just noticed the info earlier on in the thread, ignore me.

Just checked the voltage on both ox1 and ox2 and they are both between 0-0.2v so it looks like they need replacing. Any ideas which denso sensors are the right ones for a UK car?

Mine is up to 189k now, still on the original turbos. I think mileage is less important than condition, any reasonable seller should let you have an inspection.

It's interesting how the ECU can monitor both sensors and determine the health of the cat/or sensors. Curiously on mine I have no error light despite both sensors being on for well over thier estimated life span(100k+), I guess if both sensors deteriate at the same rate then the ecu will only see lean? It can only know theres a problem if only one of the sensors has failed?

It sounds like someone has bugged your phone and it is transmitting your every movement.

I would have a few drinks then get a dremel and go to town on that splinter. Even if you cant get it out you should be able to mash it up a bit! On a more serious note the heated (to sterilize it) needle has worked wonders for me with deep splinters in the past.

So why do UK and NA cars have two sensors? Is the second purely to calculate how well the CAT is working or are both used by the ECU?

I am a level 5 vegan and I wont eat anything that casts a shadow.

yeah but it has a GUI and works out the box, you can install whatever you want on it.. maybe use SUSE with KDE? All im saying is jumping into ubuntu server from windows 2003 wont be easy.