robin

Driving home just now and the drivers window wouldnt go up. Sure enough after taking the door card off I can see the cable has come off the window. I think the motor is OK as it still whirs and that I probably just need a drivers side window regulator. Anyone know a good place to get one of these? Is it hard to fit? For now ive wedged the window shut with some wood

I have a UK car which has had to have a fair bit of work, stone guards replaced etc. I too share the concerns that a hard coating/paint can do more harm than good as it can trap moisture accelerating the rust and keeping any corrosion from view. My regime now is to apply some of this every year or two to the whole underside and spray into cavities and gaps. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0035KKK66 These creep oils get into everything and displace any water, the down side is that as they are a bit thinner they will eventually wash off.

is it just a single click? Try giving the starter motor a few wacks with something hard.

For me, footman james were reasonable but got a bit expensive when you added on extras such a commuting. Lancaster are meant to be OK but they have never been competitive for me. Currently with adrian flux who work out best with the add ons I require.

I bought this one about a year ago: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XRWH8HN/ Still going strong and has no trouble starting the supra or other large petrol engines multiple times on the same charge also has a useful light and can charge other usb devices. USB-C too so handy if you have a modern phone. Not tried it with a diesel car.

it is not the end of the world as there is not much sensitive info here but you should definately never reuse the password used on the mkiv owners club elsewhere is it is sent plaintext when you log in. There are a few cheap https options: 1. Lets encrypt - free but you need to renew every 90 days or automate this. 2. put the forum behind cloudflare - free plans but you need control of the mkivsupra.net domain DNS to do this. 3. buy a cert, namecheap does comodo ones for about 6 quid for 2 years. Given how there are free or cheap options out there we really should get the site setup for https. Edited to add: if the mods/owners want a hand doing this then I ma happy to help.

some crazy times on that list! Are the top ones really doing 100 to 200 kmh in under 2 seconds?! 1.54 seconds would be an average of 1.84g

The alternator in my daily (Forester XT) is getting noisy and needs to be replaced. There are so many brands on the market and it seems impossible to tell if a particular brand is actually high quality or just an expensive waste of money. For example at this URL: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/23700aa521 Ignoring ones that are out of stock we have alernators from CV PSH, Rotovis, Lucas, Herth+Buss and a big range of prices. Does anyone have any experiance with these brands? CV PSH look to be a dutch brand and the cheapest. Any other recomendations?

Interested to know about the older bluetooth connector. Does this work on the non facelift supras? Where did you get it, is this something others can buy as well?

I would also double check the bolt holes - there are at least two versions and if you get the wrong one you can only screw the fan cowling in on a couple of them. I bought part 19099 from fastrads (01495 249876 / [email protected]) which was the correct fit (UK TT auto), had the bult in Autocooler/warmer and a good price.

I have lived with bad paint for so long it feels and looks like a new car. Here are a couple more photos. I am hoping the weather dries out again so I can take it out somewhere and get some good pictures. No rust on that patch at the top of the boot.

Total was just over 7k with the coachworks supplying new windscreen, seals and many bolts/clips. I spent a further £800 or so on bootlid and other parts that I supplied. They were not the cheapest or the most expensive I was quoted. I selected them based on reputation and that the chap spent 40 minutes filling a note book and looking all over/under the car as well as taking paint codes/chassis number before quoting. Other places tended to just pull figures from the air without really looking at the car which did not inspire much confidence.

Looks like an amazing car. Is the new owner keeping it in the country?

All complete and back together!

More progress this week. The car has been painted and the glass is going back in. Still needs a polish though. The outter sills have been sorted. a before for comparison - cant see under the plastic but it was starting to rust through. Strange for me to see the roof without peeling lacquer!

I believe 10w30 semi synthetic was the factory oil for UK supras. I still have a sticker on the car advising this. I would just change it sooner than you would a fully synthetic. My car service history shows the first 150k miles with toyota servicing who were likley just using semi synthetic oil so while quality oil is no doubt better I would not worry too much.

The glass has been taken out and the pilliars look a lot better, prep work on the rest of the car continues. I am planning on ditching the old bood lid and have a rust free one to go in which has been repaired following a few dents from the postman. The bonnes/scoop have been taken apart and new studs sorted out. The bumpers and some of the smaller body parts have been painted. The fuel tank cover and rear bumper re-enforcement have been replaced with new parts and given a thick coat of stone chip paint. Maybe these will last longer than 24 years in UK weather?

Sounds like they have managed to get the original washers apart. It looked like one of them might have been fubar so we can keep them! At the moment I am just working with estimates. A job like this could have surprises in store. I will be happy if there is any change from 7,000 or so. I don't know if the sub-frames will come down. Surprisingly most of the suspension is in reasonable condition. I think the sills suffered as the car has been badly jacked, they were crunched and lost the protective under seal.

As some of you may know from old posts my Supra has suffered from a fair bit of corrosion over the years. Being un-garaged and used daily in all weathers for many years and over nearly 210,000 miles has caused plenty of rust and paint damage. Over the last two years in particular the clear coat has started to fail all over the car. It began on the bonet but soon the roof, wings and mirrors were all peeling away. The car has the usual rust spots in the a-pilliars, round the boot lid, the sills and round the back behind the bumper and under the fuel tank. To remedy this the car has gone off to the coach works to have all the rust ground out and made good. Fit a new tailgate and full respay. Stripping down and prepping in progress. Next week the glass is coming out and she goes up in the air to get to the underside. I have been debating on keeping the UK headlight washers. On one hand they are an unusual and original feature - I want to keep everything as original as possible. On the other hand people keep walking into them. Any thoughts?

Apologies for messing you guys about. I reached out to a couple of Parts suppliers/traders at the same time as posting this and they have been able to supply poth parts brand new. Many thanks for looking to help a member out though

This bar? [ATTACH=CONFIG]228149[/ATTACH] I am not sure if there is another bracket as well? If you have one that would be great. How much are you after for it?

As per the title I am looking for the rear crashbar that the bumper bolts into and the stone guard that covers the fuel tank. Thanks!

Thanks for all the help guys. I think I have this sorted now. For anyone who ends up here searching for a radiator I have attached photo of the old/broken rad, which to me this looks like the "One fixing point" variant of the radiators here: http://www.fastrads.co.uk/partfinder/?id=1&manu=Toyota&model=Supra&year=1994&engine=3.0&trim=Standard%20Trim&ModelType=&doors=3&transmission=Automatic&varientguid=0a93f925-fba1-492e-bd0e-8e236d1e9a1c&varient=3.0%20Turbo%203d%20Auto#images_1 (Ref R1423A)

That looks promising http://www.fastrads.co.uk/partfinder/?id=1&manuid=&manu=&model=&transmission=&year=1994&doors=&trim=&ModelType=&engine=&varient= Which one is the best fit? There looks to be a difference in the mounting holes for the cowling.

It's been about 7 years and the radiator has sprung a leak again - what options are left for people with auto boxes? Does anyone know of any decent aftermarket radiators with a built in auto cooler/warmer or is my only option to get a seperate autobox cooler and thermostat? The usual places are showing a disturbing lack of parts avaliable.