cheekymonkey

OK Is it the same principle for a j-spec? I guess I'm looking on the throttle body somewhere. Is it easy enough to take off and clean?

OK Is it the same principle for a j-spec? I guess I'm looking on the throttle body somewhere. Is it easy enough to take off and clean?

Guys is this the ISCV? http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/iac/index.html

Hi! Wow just what I need - can I have number 2 please, the top rad pipe bits? Posted please and I don't mind giving you some beer money on top. Cheers James

I don't mind if it's a little unstable around 800-1000 hunting around a bit, it's just when it goes to 2000! I've had a search of the forums and can't find any information on how to locate / clean the ISCV - any pointers?

Cheers mate, the feedback value explanation you gave is the missing link in my mind. I will locate this valve and give it a clean

I've had a small problem with idle since the PowerFC was fitted - I am just posting this here to get some ideas, until I can see Ryan again because it might not even be to do with the PFC itself, may be a coincidence but it did happen right afterwards. What happens is that the engine will randomly rev to over 2,000 rpm when I am at idle, if and only if the air con or lights are on, i.e. there's extra load on the engine. However, if I am already at a good idle (800 rpm) and I switch the lights on, the revs increase to about 830 as normal. It's only when I blip the throttle that the revs go high. Sometimes the revs will drop back down again after a few seconds, then back up of it's own accord. Ryan's suggested a sticky idle control valve. Would the explain the revs sticking high AND randomly going low and high again?

Ditto for me, had a nice blast down the A417 and it came back looking great.

Thanks, Chris Done some miles tonight and there is still coolant in the expansion tank and also right up to the top of the rad. Sorted, for now

Cool, thanks! I did think of that but I hate dealing with Toyota as they never have what you need in stock, and I'm crap at forward planning. But yeah I'll get off my arse and make a list

Hey all just a quick one. I've secured the hose as best I can, and I've topped up the rad, it took about 1.5litres and put another 500ml or so in the expansion tank. I then ran the engine until it got to just over 80 degrees, no visibile leaks. How do I bleed the system? PS I am not going to be driving hard until I get the new rad, but the top hose does seem pretty secure at present

I saw the same gunk on my filler cap today, crapped myself but then searched for this thread. I am going to go for a nice sedate run now with some tunes and my nice new gauges and hopefully sort it out! Fingers crossed!

Mine arrived today undamaged, thanks peter. Now, are there any guidelines on how best to use it? Do you need to dilute it before you but it in the tank on the lance, and is it OK to use every time you wash the car?

729 US dollars, at the time that was £360 ish. Comparable to a standalone wideband with the flexibility I wanted.

Yeah it's really thin - that's just velcro'd in. The only slight problem is that the lead comes out of the centre of the back of the display, and is tacked down to route it to the bottom of the display. This does mean it can't be mounted properly to a flat surface, sadly. See attached. I might lose my boost meter, and make a 52mm to 60mm adaptor ring so it can fit in there, but I'm no good with that sort of thing!

Hey all. I know some of you are thinking of getting some of these sensors / gauges. I've finally got around to mounting the modules, behind the stereo as per the attached pictures. I have: DM-100 display module SM-AFR SM-EGT SM-Fluid Temp (oil temp) It's a nice snug fit on top of the ABS control ECU and they don't rattle around even though they aren't attached with anything at the moment. The wires for the DM-100, USB remote control and USB to host lead just come out into the passenger footwell area at present, while I think of where to mount them permanently. If anyone wants to know anything about these please ask away.

Hey all My dash and stereo cage are missing a few screws - nothing serious, but I'd like to have spares anyway. Does anyone have some, or could tell me what specs I need to get?

We've had a fireblade but fancy something a bit different - and at that price, if I don't like it I can sell it in the spring/summer and make the 2k or whatever back on it

Not yet - I'd forgotten about it actually. I am going to be fitting a line lock kit soon anyway, so will have a think about that as well. I'd like to add though if any technical peeps have an idea as to do this, please let me know

I guess it depends who's got a DR test on at the moment When I was there some months ago I was in my Supra too.

Have just ordered a new Rad. It's from CW and it's a brand new unit that uses the stock plastic end caps (sorry no Bling:)) with an updated alloy core that's more efficient than stock, and is also cheaper, as a bonus!

Hey mate that's much appreciate, shows the club spirit is alive and well However I will have another look today, and may end up getting a new rad anyway as mine is quite tired. My water temps at SRR were quite high during the mapping session so the upgrade was on the cars already Cheers james

I have just been offered a 2006 56 plate "Night Rod Special" harley for 7k, tempted to snap her arm off but don't know too much about bikes! Any good?

wtf?

Cheers guys, I will have a look at some. How do you know what's a good one, or not? Any good - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fluidyne-Aluminum-Radiator-2JZGTE-Toyota-Supra-MK4-TT_W0QQitemZ180048074863QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180048074863 ?