cheekymonkey

Pics to follow guys Assuming my neighbours don't kill me in the meantime of course. I may have to quieten down the supra as a gesture of good will - this bike is LOUD!

Bought it! It looks the part but I cannot find performance figures anywhere. Anyone know what the 0-60 is on it?

Hi Gaz I have also seen that warning, and seen it de-bunked on here a couple of times - I guess the Supra ABS unit is forgiving. In an ideal world we'd be able to tap the brake lines *after* the ABS actuator, but that would involve switching two separate brake lines, left hand side and right hand side - but the hurst model only has one solenoid. I plan to tap into the brake line at the master cylinder, underneath where you fill the brake fluid. The line at the back of the engine towards the firewall is the one for the front brakes (Don't take my word for it, I still need to confirm this). This will be blocking before the ABS unit, so in theory the ABS ECU could sense the brakes not releasing, and cause problems. Of course, pulling the ABS fuse would stop it from interfering in the worst case but I'd quite like to hear from knowledgeable sources on here.

Ah, yes, since I didn't think of that I think it must be time to go to bed

OK, do you know if these ballast packs are fairly universal? I bought my brother a HID upgrade for his Evo IV for xmas, yet to be fitted, so might be able to borrow the ballasts

I have a HID conversion in my car that was there when I got it, maybe even had been done in Japan. I've noticed that when I get home after a nice long drive, the right hand light isn't on, even though it turned on OK at the start of the journey. If I then turn the lights off, and on again, *sometimes* it's OK, but most of the time it fails to light - you'll get the HID "startup" flash but then nothing. I've tried tapping, waggling and prodding the ballast wires, I don't think it's a bad connection. Is this likely to be a bulb or the ballast on it's way out?

Hey, you'd still have the rear brakes

I've been looking through my service manual, finding which brake line to tap in to for my new line lock kit. I stumbled upon the circuit diagrams for the whole ABS system and got thinking. It strikes me that if I was feeling particularly cunning, I could have saved the £75 for a line lock kit, and tapped into the electrically operated solenoids inside the ABS unit itself, using a switch to block off the front two lines as and when required. Anyone ever tried this?

It will plug in to any imfd sensor from PLX - so it can monitor o2, egt, temps, pressure, whatever you like.

I have available to sell a DM-100 display module and display screen/remote from plxdevices.com. See here http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=137779 for what it looks like. The reason I am selling is because I want to buy the DM-200 display module as a 60mm gauge will be better for me at this time. New these are $209 plus import tax (yes I was stung ) so I will let it go for £80 including P&P. If you don't yet own any PLX devices stuff, you'll need at least one of the sensor modules from http://www.plxdevices.com.

Woop woop! Definately going to get you to have a look at my idling problem soon

cheers I felt like I was doing something useful anyway! I wish I didnt need air con at the moment but I have a bit of a moisture issue right now. Window seals I think - it never ends!

After much swearing I had the ICV valve off this evening, it didn't actually look very mucky at all (no EGR ), but I cleaned out the body with Gunk degreaser, rinsed and dried it, and the check valve and re-fit it all. Initially I thought I'd fixed it but the problem is still apparent when I turn the A/C on. The revs jump to about 2100, and hunt around about 1800-2100 until I turn the A/C off again. The lights don't seem to affect it any more, so perhaps cleaning the IAV did "something" but not fixed it completely Could this problem be related to the TTC mode, at all? As that was done at the same time as the PFC install.

OK yes please. Can you send down with Rad at the same time? I can send some more money. Please drop me an email with the price

Hey all. Going to order a few misc screws from Mr. T today unrelated to this work, but is there anything little worth renewing, when changing the rad? Apart from the coolant of course

Thanks

Arrrghhh! Head Wall Is it the "thing" at the back of the intake manifold that I need to clean?

Get an iPod touch and hang on to your phone for calls

Thanks Mr H! Well that's all the more reason to give it a clean

Excellent. I have found loads more information about the sticking IACV issue so feel confident looking at this now. This may be a silly question but why does the IACV need a water feed?

Homer is that the same thing as the ISCV? Acronym overload!

I'm not too sure mate! It's on the left hand side in this picture, and I can't correlate that with the EPC image, unless there's hidden bits not apparent in the picture... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13939&d=1112558977

I *think* I mean the one at the back of the intake manifold - the one that's sticking (see here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=137824)

I've looked everywhere - in Engine, and Electrical. Found the intake manifold and surge tank plenum, but I can't for the life of me find the ISCV. Help!

I will probably have a go at cleaning mine, as it may isolate the fault, and I haven't lost anything if I then decide to get a new one. Any pointers appreciated