cheekymonkey

It's a 600cc, so it's no slouch but not stupid fast like a full-on sports bike I'm changing jobs in a couple of weeks and will be commuting by road instead of the train, so be good to sneak between the queues of cars in the nice weather... not going to be riding in the rain if I can help it

Something for the summer and for commuting to work occaisonally! Have bike test in 2 weeks time, theory test and CBT done already http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w279/cheekysupra/DSC00572.jpg

Gaz, thanks - that's what I thought. He's bleating on about Blitz charging him a re-stocking fee as well (I think he basically does just order straight from Blitz when he gets an order) but of course it doesn't say that on the auction!

I will not name him until it's resolved, but it's NOT a trader on here, just to make that clear

If it's a choice between a new car and a japanese model I know what I'd want

Guys, I am involved in a dispute with a guy off ebay - I bought an exhaust off him which is brand new, he's a trader (legally, not a Trader on this board). Literally 2 hours after my order I tried to cancel it as I'd sourced the Tanabe that I really wanted. He couldn't cancel as Blitz had already sent it out. I sent him an email yesterday under the Distance Selling Regs saying I wanted to cancel the transaction within the 7 day cooling off period, and the courier delivery was refused, so it's on the way back to wherever it came from. He wants to charge me a re-stocking fee of 10% (£50) and I told him to screw it. He's saying his terms and conditions mandate this re-stocking fee, and I told him his T&C's cannot trump the law of the land, but he's sticking to it. The regs DO allow for a re-stocking fee of COSTS ONLY if I don't return the goods at my own expense, however by refusing delivery I've never even taken the goods myself, so I am not sure where I stand here. Anyone got any advice?

Sorry, I already have the mod, but the bulb needs replacing, that's all. It's a very weird bulb

Sorry to ressurrect this - but I am in the same boat. Need a new "fog light" which is actually a reverse light in a facelift, but painted/coated RED Did you get anywhere with this?

Cheers Chris. I was aware of the fact I'd made multiple changes in one hit and that might make things difficult. Just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed something (else) silly. It's a shame wasn't able to do the 'stat but I don't have a stubby enough spanner

Also have a spare set after an upgrade at the weekend

Cool well off to B&Q for me then - get some of the draught excluder stuff... and remove my rad again. Might actually try and do the 'stat this time

I am reading it off the PowerFC, so I presume it's using the stock temp sensor, wherever that is - is it the one at the bottom of the rad? Ermm... oops. So all that manky foam crap that fell off my old rad needs to be replaced? That could well be it....

Oh right, yeah, it's from Chris Wilson - updated core with stock end caps, brand new, 25mm core which is what I had before. Cheap ebay parts not allowed near my car

*bump* anyone got any ideas? Also note that Im still using the old 'stat - my hands aren't up to changing it after I saw where the bolts were

Yes, I know - sorry was just trying to add my thumbs up to the thread

I bought some of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200193071513 Perfect fit, and look great - cheap too

Before I fitted my new rad, my water temp would stabilise at about 92 degrees. Now, I have changed the rad and with sedate driving the temp goes to 93 or 94 degrees. There's fluid at the top of the rad, and fluid in the expansion tank, and the heaters work, so I think the system is bled - but how can I be sure? Other point to note is that I am running the bigger injectors at the moment and can only drive off boost and below 3000 rpm until I can get the car re-mapped. Would this cause hotter running at all?

Looking forward to seeing pics of the new wheels

Mine is in an extremely sorry state. Running with it off for the time being but be nice to have one back on. J-spec facelift TT if that matters!

Hi mate I just had a look but without measuring it's certainly a lot less than 12mm/10mm so probably not good for you, sorry!

I bow down before He with the Shiny Metal Ass!

Cheekymonkey = chuffed monkey at the moment

Guys, I started the car and it started perfectly first time, sounded sweet for about 5 seconds, then started to run very very rich so I turned her off Just awaiting Ryan now to talk me through the PFC setup but good to know she starts anyway.

Well, what can I say - it's all back together again, managed to sort out the gasket I folded and 90 minutes later everything's on, no bolts left over, no tubes unconnected. Plus, the car starts

As discussed earlier in the thread, the RX is the race version with a built in baffle.