cheekymonkey

Not a bad idea, plenty of roads for them to graze on around here and lots of v-power to drink

Cool thanks. I know j-specs have IAT sensors as standard but maybe the motec can't use it for some reason. The invoice I have says that the following were fitted: Motec Loom Air temp sensor Coolant sensor Map sensor So am assuming the sensor that I don't recognise must be the Air temp one...

Sorry mate I will have fun. Got to try and get used to that Auto box now. I wonder what the red button does?

To give it some loving and revert most of it to stock

I have my own little voice of experience now... and he's saying rather loudly that 1.3 bar with the 1st cat still in place and no instrumentation is BAAAAD

Today I picked up a "bargain" from a nice chap in Kent, who knew very little about what he had. As some of you may know it's a 1994 TT Auto, with a Motec M800 ECU. I've managed to figure out from the Dyno sheets that she's running a shade under 1.3 bar... and here's the fun part: - 1st cat still in place - NO boost gauge - NO AFR / EGT gauge - Standard (AFAIK) fuel pump - Probably standard j-spec turbos, but who knows? - Run on BP ultimate not V-power for last 10k miles or so Since this work was done in 2003 she's covered about 30k miles with no problems - but has been serviced religiously and I have all the paperwork to prove it. That said, she does drive really well, I get a small amount of black smoke on startup, but not while boosting. Got to start showing this car some love because she deserves it.

Am looking over my new "project Overkill" which has a stock TT engine fueled by a Motec M800. Plan A is to remove this ECU but before I jump into doing anything I'm going to find out exactly how it's connected and what it's doing. Before I start stripping things down and tracing cables I wonder if someone could take a look at the attached pic? I've highlighted two sensors which I believe are non-standard and hooked in to the Motec. Have I ID'd these correctly as IAT and MAP?

Well, I got it! Nice drive but a couple of problems, Valve stem seals possibly need doing, and might have fuel pressure problem - take a good couple of seconds longer to crank than my TT. Now, need to work out if I'm going to convert to manual, strip her out and track her, or revert to total stock and sell as a nice example... Hmmmm

OK mate thanks for the heads-up I'll be doing my due diligence on this one

Anyone? Before I go spending?

It seems that it's the car in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=121173 So basically he's selling it for what he paid for it 8 months ago (yeah.. he won't be getting the full amount :D) Also, the dyno plots are there: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/scruffers/owen1.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/scruffers/owen2.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/scruffers/owen3.jpg Now, this suggests 395BHP tops, well that's fine for BPU and gives me more bargaining power as it's not 470 is it. The thing that I just don't understand though is the 3rd plot where it seems to suggest it's plotting RPM versus boost. Can someone take a look at it for me, please? Peak boost at 4250 ish RPM seems to be a shade under 230Kpa... which is 2.3 bar! W.T.F.? Or am I missing some sort of absolute vs relative pressure type thing here?

Even more strange that they wouldn't revert back the single most expensive part then Since it has stock injectors I am betting that I can drop a stock auto ECU back in no problems. Hmmm. I can't find any confirmation that the M800 controls the auto gearbox - but in this car, it must be, surely?

Ah so it will be quite obvious then if it's bright gold *grin* Yeah I think I may be able to get a few quid off as well, because he's now saying there's an intermittent starting problem where it will just click click click sometimes but be fine other times. Possibly starter motor refurb time?

Is anyone able to get me a pic of an M800 today? I'm going to pick this car up tomorrow, basically to revert it to stock and keep the Motec for my own car for when I go mega-single one day. I do however want to be sure of what I'm getting It does strike me as a little odd to have such an ECU in what is basically a stock car, that's all!

Thanks Ian, all was cleaned anyway when I did my injectors and the throttle is pretty smooth now

back seats down, three laying down in the boot / back seat area, and the 4th went behind the passenger seat for me EDIT I am actually talking about TYRES here before anyone says anything

Hell yeah. I took 4 wheels/tyres and a trolley track, and a crate of tools in my supra to go on a drifting day Don't bank on having any passengers though!

Nice one... if not I'll just take it off and see how the car drives without it

Right, this has been bugging me so I've done some more troubleshooting today. It's definately not the ICV as when I get the high idle my TPS reads higher as well, as if the throttle is stuck on a little. With this in mind I went to have a look, and sure enough, if I tap the throttle control arm (on the other side of the throttle body to the cable) where it hits the "dash pot" (I identified this from the EPC), the idle returns to normal. So it looks like the dash pot thing is holding my throttle too high sometimes. It's not connected to anything so I think it's just there to dampen the throttle. Do I need a new one, do they go bad like this?

Yes, you had me well confused with your talk of turning the rear brakes off... I hope you see that's not happening at all now. If you leave your red light lit after the burnout, you still get front and rear brakes, so no need to worry there. It's just warning you that your gear knob button is active. I'm thinking of having a similar system. A master arm button that lights up an amber LED, and a red LED that lights when the line lock is actually doing it's thing.

OK - so now you are saying it's a master ARM switch. That's cool - but earlier you say it's de-activating the rear brakes, which it isn't. So lets just put this to bed now eh?

Well, why should they be? You've *released the brake pedal* at this point, so of course the rear brakes are going to disengage, they don't have to be de-activated...

That's *exactly* what I do except for step 1. I think your line lock kit is fitted in the same way as mine - it's locking off the front brake lines and your step 1 is just a master arm switch, nowt to do with the rear brakes whatsoever.

Sounds like you'd need two solenoids for that to work, and you'd probably get awfully confused The way a line lock kit works is it's tapped in to the front brakes, and... 1. Press and hold brake pedal - both rears and fronts are pressurised 2. Hold down line lock button - front brake system isolated whilst under pressure (this holds the fronts ON) 3. Release brake pedal - pressure is released from the rear brakes but fronts remain on because of the solenoid = burnouty goodness! As soon as you release the button the pressure in the front brakes is released and you can move. EDIT: Are you sure your first red button isn't just a master "ARM" switch/warning to make sure you don't activate the line lock inadvertantly? That's probably what I am going to do, else if the line lock it activated accidentally during normal driving then I'd have no front brakes...

Ermm.. I don't quite follow! My line lock is tapped in to the front brake line - it's not touching the rear brakes at all. When I hold the button, the solenoid isolates the front brakes, and when I release the button everything goes back to normal. Sounds like you're talking about isolating the rear brakes, not sure how useful that would be unless you're on a front wheel drive car