Induction

This all sounds good stuff. I've got an HKS front pipe and Super Drager coming soon, but the reason I left out a down pipe was because I was told that when the second cat is removed and an exhaust system fitted, the Supra relies on the first cat for back pressure. I've also been told (and I'm sure I've read it somwehere on a site) that it can cause overboost and boost spikes. If, judging by the posts here, this isn't true then I'll get a downpipe as well, definitely. Anyone clear this up for me? If I got a downpipe, is a boost cut controller a neccesity (any other things needed?), and, bearing in mind that I've got a UK spec car, does this make a difference to the whole downpipe situation? Thanks

Here's how I ended up installing the induction kit. After I was done I got it checked by APB and they told me they were more than happy with how I had gone about the installation. The car seems to be running fine with it in place. It's difficult to see from this shot but there's about 2 inches between the front of the filter and the neearest obstruction.

Thanks for all the info guys. JB, interesting to hear that you've experienced the back end getting a bit light under heavy braking - I've had exactly the same thing since the new Goodyears were fitted, but not whilst the old ones were on. With my old Goodyears, I did find that the back end would seem to give a little twitch if it hit a mid-bend bump but with the new ones this has gone. I suppose Eibach springs with standard shocks are a bit of no-no anyway, so I'll have to start the search for a good supplier in the US and get some AGX's sent across. By the way, if I fit uprated shocks would I get rid of the front tyres snagging the inside of the arches as I mentioned earlier? I've been told that this is happening because the standard shocks are not capable of handling the sharp increase in load and don't have progressive damping, not sure if there's any truth in that or not.

Gavin It's UK spec with about 80k. Jules

Hi Since I've had my Eibach springs fitted I've noticed that the front tyres catch the top middle part of the arches under heavy cornering or when catching a mid-bend bump. Also, I've just had two of the new Goodyear Eagle F1's fitted to the rear and have found that the back end now seems to over-compensate on initial turn-in into fairly fast corners. A friend of mine has suggested that the standard shocks are not up to the job and need replacing. After a bit of reasearch, KYB AGX shocks seem to be the perfect partner for Eibach springs, but, they don't seem available in the UK! Anyone got any ideas on the quickest and cheapest method of getting some from the US? Has anyone here sourced parts from the US and had any problems, etc? Thanks for any help.

Right, before anything was done in terms of actually running the car, I contacted my supplier and checked a few things. Turns out that I needed to shorten the main hose (black one) so that the AFM could go back in-line and still allow the filter head to be in position. I had to get two pieces of piping to go either side of the AFM and they're secured with juby clips. The car runs really well with it on and the induction noise is great to hear. I think general pickup of the car is better now as well. Chris, I'm a bit concerned about your comments on how the induction kit is only for Jap spec cars. My supplier knows the full details of my car and assured me that they had got the correct kit. I'll check into this for peace of mind.

Martin That bloody thing still has to go in-line doesn't it?!!? I feel like blaming the instructions (only written in Japanese!) but at the end of the day I think I've got to accept that I should have realised the sensor had to remain in-line! At what point along the piping should the sensor be placed, and does it need any modification to allow fitting? Jules

Sorry, should have made it clear - it's the electrical connector.

Sorry, should have made it clear - it's the electrical connector.

Hi all I've fitted an HKS air filter, the Super Power Flow, and was wondering what happens to the connector that went into the old airbox. The engine starts and runs fine but the engine light is permanently on and the Overdrive light blinks. Before I run the car I want to be sure what is actually going on. I think I read somewhere on the board about re-setting these lights, but why did they come on in the first place? Anybody got any info on this? Thanks.

Martin Thanks for that. I'll probably take the length of the tube down as I think I've got more on there than needed. I'll try winding the bolt out more like you mention. Is it a case of the more the bolt is out the less likely there are to be leaks? Jules

My BOV is mounted in exactly the same way as the pictures show. The only difference is that the small diameter pipe on mine is about twice the length of the one in the pics - would it help to make this shorter? I put my HKS BOV back on last night and made sure all connections were really secure and tight. Took the car for a run and it seemed fine, very similar to the stock BOV. This started to make me wonder if it is something to do with ambient temperature and that the HKS BOV being at fault could all be in my mind. The outside temperature gauge was reading 17-18 degrees last night so could it be that the car was just thriving on the cooler night air, or that the connections needed re-seating and tightening, or a combo of both? And what are the pros and cons of either winding the bolt in or out on the BOV? Which way stops boost being released too early, etc, etc?

Alex I'm waiting for a call from them to talk about it. I'll put up a photo of the installation to look at. Jules

The BOV was fitted professionally by ABP Motorsport in Nantwich and I chose the HKS SSQV because of all the good things that I'd read about it. When I collected the car I was told to expect a better pick-up. I'd love to get the thing back on and have the car performing as normal as I love the look and sound of it. Before I took it off I tried turning the bolt one full turn clockwise to see if it made any difference, but it didn't (I think I've seen something on the board where somebody says that their bolt is wound all the way out, what effect would that have and should it be something I consider doing as a test?) If everyone else who's running an SQV is happy and having no problems then this gives me encouragement that I can get the thing working properly again - if it is actually the cause of the problem. To answer the questions, the blanking cap was fitted and all connections were secured with juby clips. Just to clarify a few points on the SQV (and for my own peace of mind), the large diameter pipe goes into the BOV and the small diameter tube heads off into a disc shaped plastic connector, and a blanking cap covers the other connection. For the standard BOV, one large pipe comes into it, one goes out of it and ends up on the connector that has the blanking plug on it when the SQV is fitted, and the small pipe goes to the same plastic disc connector as with the SQV - is that correct ?

Hi Folks I had an HKS SSQV fitted about six weeks ago. The day it went in, a fairly regular passenger in the car remarked that they thought the car wasn't performing as well as he seemed to remember. I dismissed this and didn't think much more of it until about two or three weeks ago. I felt that the car didn't seem to have that 'pull like a train' sensation, as if the second turbo wasn't giving it's usual wallop. I spent about a week doing certain tests on the road to see if I could work out was going on and also noticed that under acceleration at about 3500 rpm, the car seemed to stop accelerating for a split second and then go again (the BOV gave a slight release noise as well). You couldn't really feel this, it was more noticeable because of the engine sound changing and the needle pausing on the dial that gave it away. I stated to become a bit concerned and whilst I was at Elvington at the weekend, I had a chat with who I believe is Leon (running a dark Supra, have heard his name mentioned on the board) and he suggested winding the screw on the BOV. I also heard another guy saying the HKS SSQV wasn't up to much. Anyway, last night I'd had enough and decided to put the stock BOV back on to see if it made any difference. Had a bit of trouble with the small diameter piping, but everything seemed to go back as it should. On a test the car seemed to have it's old legs back and pulled really well, the second turbo coming in nice and strong. This felt like a different car! I've got to say that I'm pretty confused now and am wondering what to do next, whether it be try the SSQV with the bolt screwed all the way in, (or should that be out), or to keep the stock BOV on there. I have noticed more noise as the first turbo starts to come online, a more pronounced whine, since I put the stock one back on and I'm unsure whether this means that one of the pipes isn't quite on right, although I have got jubilee clips securing both ends of the main pipe. This noise may have been there before the SSQV went on but I don't seem to remember it being as loud as this. Any suggestions on any or all of the above? Sorry for the long post, I've just realised how much I've written, but this problem is really bugging me! Thanks

Right, I'll get everything checked out and try to get to the bottom of it all. Thanks for everyone's help on this.

Ok, I'll go through the correct procedure and try to get a proper reading. Also, If I verify that the wrong fluid has been used will I have to have a drain and re-fill?

As far as level goes, I remember seeing COLD and HOT markers on the stick and the fluid seemed to be up to the hot marker. The car was still warm and had been standing for about two hours after a good run of about forty minutes. I was mainly interested in checking the quality of the fluid at the time I looked. If the fluid they've put in is wrong then I suppose I'll have to get it replaced with the type IV you mention. Is this 'dodgy' fluid a potential cause of the problem?

OK, now I'm back to being a bit confused... Last night, I took a look at the ATF stick to see what the fluid was like - based on some of the comments that have I read on the forum. It looked good and didn't have a dark, thick consistency but a bright, clear kind of look. I also checked the documentation from my last service and found that the fluid had been changed and replaced with one called Mexatrans or something, can't quite remember the name. After replacing the stick I went for a run (any excuse to get behind the wheel !) and found that the noise had either completely gone or had become substantially quieter. So, now that I know the fluid has been recently changed, could the noise still be something to do with the ATF, and what could the disappearance / reduction of the noise be contributed to?

The general consensus definitely seems to point towards changing the fluid in the box. I'll get it sorted and hopefully get rid of the problem. Thanks for everybody's help and info on this, I was starting to get a little concerned with the noise so if a fluid change does the trick, I'd class that as a result!

Hi I've got a fluttering noise on my TT at about 3500-4000 rpm. The car's an auto and if I shift down to second and hold at about 4000 ready to pass someone the engine seems to be creating this noise. I think the noise is there generally, but it seems more noticeable at this rpm. It's fairly rapid, probably about three times a second and there may just be a slight ticking noise hidden within the flutter. The engine itself sounds fine and sweet, all the way up to 6000 plus. I know I may be making a fool of myself here but could it be that this is being generated by something like the wastegate? Thanks