Ryan.G

Blimey! What Tyres are you going to be using to achieve that speed? Ryan

I know mate but hate bonnet pins and thought the shut lines were that good that no air would get underneith.

I really did not want to fit some bonnet pins as think they look crap and ruin the smooth lines of a supra but guess with carbon bonnet not being totally rigid like Stock bonnets it just lifted when maybe one of the 2 toyota locking catch came loose. Oh well these things happen. Have ordered some Aerocatches now as they look respectable being flat. Will get them sprayed up with bonnet.

Hi Guys Well had a spot of bad luck on the way back from the dyno on thursday night when my bonnet decided to pop open at around 45mph. The carbon bonnet has cracked in one or two places which im not bothered about as easy fix but the worse part is that the bonnet has dented the roof between the strengthening bars Now the paint is fine and doesn't look likes its creased the metal but wondering what the best route of action is from here. Does anyone know if the metal can be accessed from removing the roof lining to pop it out? Or anyone local to Oxford who is Good with removing dents? The car was pretty much mint to this happened so want to get it back to normal Im gunna try the old heat gun and air duster trick tonight so will see what happens. Thanks for your time Ryan p.s needless to say i have ordered some aerocatches now

Hey mate I have some good datalogs with voltage vs boost pressure but dont have anything that could show you the whole range. Quickly though -460 = 1.50v -300 = 1.90v -150 = 2.30v .0 = 2.71v 0.50 = 3.66v 0.85 = 4.32v 0.95bar = 4.50v HTH, Im sure its just a linear scale so if you use the number i have gave already you could probably make a table Ryan

Forgot to say earlier on phone mate but Happy BD mate Have a good one Ryan

Dastek Dyno's use a run down seq after each run to measure the drag and then work out the loses. I exspect where the gearbox fluid got warmed up after the first run it didn't cause it to loose anymore power through the Transmission. End of day its a tool to get the best out of the car in a safe environment. Just a figure at end of day and if your happy with it on road then thats all the matters

I was at motorscope last week and is a very nice setup they have. I actually maxed out their dyno with a t78 car we did Your wheel and fly figures look good also not loosing like 22% through the transmission which i have seen on others. Just so you can see mike i have overlayed your graph against a comparision table i run at SRR but tbh your graph would look alot like the others if was ran at SRR due to the gear which is used (4)and the ramp rate. Richard uses a slow ramp rate which puts more load on the engine to make the power in earlier across the range, the only down side to this is things getting hotter (ie air temps) at the top end as is a long run. This is why your power starts to level off after 5k as probably some timing was pulled with the air temps rising. I believe this is the same with your dyno sheet Nic Ryan

Cant see your car being anywhere near MBT of your engine so on the run before the air temps must have been higher or timing must have been pulled as normally pulling 2-3 loses about 10- 20bhp depending on Compression Ratio. Does your setup have a active knock setup aswell so it pulls timing if the knock sensors pick up any noise like the stock ecu as this would also explain why the power didn't change. But There are many variable that can effect it but i wouldN'T worry about it as sound like you have a nice little setup there.

The loads break points in the map are some what corrupted can be easily fixed but is your car running 2000bhp or something as why is the whole map scaled to 51psi. Anyway the break points problem will be why its rich it thinks your running 51psi at idle. Just upload Roberts map and should be fine then

Hows he going to turn the car over then

You can just turn it off in the aem software but the easiest thing for you to do is in the boot on the left hand side, under the spare wheel there is a connector which goes to the fuel pump. Just disconnect it

5% And the rest.....

Roberts Map has the O2 Feedback switched on for the WHOLE fuel table which is using the wideband to work out the fueling. This is fine up to say 0psi of boost and 4500rpm as is like closed loop o2 correction as on the standard ecu but i exspect where dangerous brain does not have an AFR sensor wired in to the AEM, it will be just using the map and as the same as all the other maps that have been done this way by a special AEM mapper it will be PIG RICH like 9:1

I hope Pauls car (zen performance) does well, Great guy In fact hope all the UK teams do well Ryan

Ok just spoke to frasier so will chat to you later about it Matt but can be done with the link at present p.s He has finally got the Drive by wire working great on the vvti's now with m800 They are not developing a ecu that can control the actual box but i have asked them to add a shift retard function but seems there is another way around it that im going to test. Have just ordered up another Link plus so fear not michael will sort it out soon for your new turbo's

The AEM (gems) ECU is the only one, that i know of, that can directly control the auto box. The MoTeC cant  The MoTeC’s have to use the stock ecu to control the box (which I feel is best) and then the MoTeC unit to control the IGN/INJ. Now the reason why the MoTeC can be used with the Auto is because it has a function that is called shift retard. The shift retard function can accept a digital input into the ecu which when the auto solenoid is activated it activates the Shift Retard function which pulls the ignition timing and stops any torque going through the box. (this is what kills them) Now im not sure at the moment if the stock ecu retards the timing or cuts the ignitions for a brief ms. Now I have briefly spoke to Ianc to see if on any of his datalogs from auto cars he has seen a retard in timing. He could not spot any which makes me wonder if it does cuts the ignition for a brief second. Now when I say second I mean millisecond which Im sure would not make it noticeable. Now if it is ignition cut then the link ecu can be made to work with the Auto box. If it’s a retard then will have to wait for Link to release a new update which I have spoke to them about for shift retard like the MoTeC’s. Be interesting if Pete from Thor racing had any input onto this. Also searching though the different pin out sheets I cant seem to find a Pinout which is say an output from the box that goes to the stock ecu for retarding the timing so Im guessing that when it sends the signal to active the solenoid the stock ecu must cut or retard. I have only looked into this for the last couple of days in detail but soon I will take a weekend off and spend some time testing. Might be worth Matt asking Frasier if he has any input on this?

Jake i love your way with words I put DAF in that thread as it was printed right accross the compressor housing and all the other GT4088 i have seen apart from yours have Garrett printed instead of DAF but yes you are right precision produced my one too. As i found the sticker when removing the turbo

Well Phil those figure will be out as found a problem with it when taking it off Take a look over this thread though Phil http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=128998&highlight=real+figures Jake on here has a 1.06 housing i think Ryan

Any links jody to ones you have purchased? Thanks

Anyone got any going for sale 2nd hand or new. Looking to spend under £100

That thing is scary not sure if it the car or your driving tho BTW you set a record outside of SRR, fastest speed achieved down that road . Charlies best was 135 leptons in a 750bhp mustang you beat it by 10mph Cya in the week mate

Interesting read John i must say while training at motec i found very different results to what you have found with regards to A/f and power output but as you say every car is different and the Water/meth on yours will certainly be helping keep the cylinder temps down at the Leaner mixtures.

Yes i have pretty much got it sorted in a wiring aspect and thoery of keeping the auto control as stock. Just need to test in the coming monthes but im having to do it at nights as i dont think i have a free weekend now to jan

Was Suprafan72 and Tony license with me heading back to oxford