Ryan.G

If it was on a rx7 engine then probably would have but 2jzgte is a strong bugger.

Well when i listened through the det cans on a TT which was running at BPU i was abit shocked at the crackle of det i heard at the VSV change point. Not sure if it still happens if the boost was lowered too say 1bar though insteed of 1.2 Im sure Ian will explain more as he fixes this alot more Ryan.

http://www.importscene.com.au/prod466.htm Some of the cars i have mapped have these on and work very well

A good way to make the N/A exhaust quieter is to start up your TT before Maybe look at one of those apexi exhaust valves

Highly recommend a Emanage ultimate for BPU Speak to Ian C He does do piggybacks

Part number - 86921-30020 Please pm me

Sorry now sold but you can get them on ebay for very good price now

Motec cant control the box but can be setup to retard ignition timing on gear shifts to keep the box happy. You would need to leave the stock auto ecu in place for controlling the box though. Ryan

Best thing to do is speak to Dave mate as he is the UK dist of the knock box or i can get one for you. I have actually hooked up a link g3 Lem to a n/a supra and ran really well the only thing i had trouble with was the strepper mtor control on the LEM is not brilliant compared to the Xlem but is a way round I have a contact steve who i can get the supra female ecu connectors so have got a few plug and play harness's for the supras at home. Good thing is the pinouts with n/a and TT are nearly identical. Yes would have to be mulitpoint injection and batch ignition which is not great with the TT but fine for the N/A. Im wondering if there is any more power to gain and will be testing soon. Ryan

Hey Steve I hope your going to keep your euno for track days as that thing is a right little weapon. Will have to catch up soon and See if we can squeeze some more boost in. Also look at Maybe going WI with meth too keep things cooler on the track, then running meth will allow us to get some Ignition in. Good to have you on Board though. Ryan

No point going for a SAFC as the emange you have is already better for your application Linkg3 Plus is what i would go for and then as the N/A and TT have nearly identical pinouts you could use it on your TT after by just plug and play plus few tweaks

http://www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=182 Make sure you get it with the T4 input flange. Tim will sort you out though, its where i order all my stuff from. Say i sent you as will give you a nice deal i expect due to what car you have

Gt3582r

Dont be lazy Gaz get some scans up, i saw that scanner in your office

Has to be Thread of the year , Guess i was right with who it was. Wondered why he wanted my number so bad and where i work etc O well he has it now and we had a nice little chat last night. I learn't quite abit TBH

Anyone able to scan the feature for me

The good thing with your setup and while it would not worry me Mike is the FBW being setup properly so in the chance that the sensor did fail, the knock sensor would pickup the noise and close the throttle. Like it did on your dyno run With regard to vpro software, I dont feel the need of work mike to apply for the dongle and the software but might have access to it soon of a good friend

Ok here are my thoughts on this subject. The standard supra ECU uses an "o2 feedback system/Closed loop O2" for when the car is cruising and idling the keep the AFR around stoich for Emission tests purposes and good MPG. Now i use this feature on some ecu's too for Mimicking the standard closed loop system but I set it so it is used up to 0 Psi and 4000 rpm which is roughly the same as the Toyota setup. I would never though dream of using it after these parameters unless the rich and lean limit were set at around 2-3% even still I would not be happy with leaving it on. Now let me explain why The ecu will be looking at a analog input from a wideband O2 sensor for it to see AFR on boost and it will be reporting back to the ecu in a format of 0-5v. Now for those who don’t know 0v = rich (7.35:1 AFR for most widebands) and 5v = lean (22.39:1 AFR). Now if a sensor or a wideband controller fails or say the fuse goes that analog output from the wideband controller will supply 0 voltage which as I just just explains means it will be telling the ecu its seeing a AFR which is Very rich. The Ecu Will then adjust the fueling of the engine to try and get it back to the target AFR which means it will be pulling fuel depending on what the lean or rich limit is set at. In most AEM maps I have seen this is normally set at between 10% and 25%. Pulling even 10% at say 1bar is going to cause the engine to be extremely unhappy let along 25% of the fuel map. But if people did decided they wanted to set this I would have thought they would have turned the knock control on at least I dont have a problem with Mike B setup as it has a very good knock control system linked to it aswell if this problem did occur and doubt it has the ability to pull up to 10% of fuel. I want people to know that I am not trying to gain any more mapping for myself by slating this setup as I don’t even offer mapping of AEM’s unless it’s for a friend of a friend. I am just shocked that it is being done like this and that the person who does this has already ruined 2 engines of VERY good friends of mine which i am not happy about

PCMCIA Serial Adaptor Card Great for use with newer laptops when Connecting to Ecu's which have serial connectors and dont like usb to serial convertors. Ryan

Hi, dont want to go too far off topic but we had problems strapping the car down due to rear diffuser and could not stop it wheel spinning after 5.5k you can see it from where the dyno speed suddenly changes.

Hi All Not sure how many of you have seen that Greddy make a external switch for the Greddy profec B II for switching boost modes by the push of a button which can be mounted on steering wheel or gear knob. This is good for having lower boost in lower gears for keeping traction and then switching to high mode when in higher gears. Well i was going to purchase one to help with my traction issues in the lower gears as my standalone ecu can not control the boost and found this Mod cheaper than a Linkg3 plus Ok well i had some spare time today so thought i would work out how to wire my own switch in and make it work with the Profec B Well here is how you do it... Ok you will need a 3.5mm headphone jack (1) with ideally some cabling attached. This plug goes into the back on the profec b as shown below (2). 1 2 With the cabling then connected to the jack you need to strip it back which should reveal 3 wires. (3) 3 Now what you need to do is mount the switch where you would like it and then connect the Ground wire which is the unshield cable shown in picture 3 to one side of the push switch. A push switch looks like the one below in image 4 and can be purchased from maplins. 4 http://www.electronix.com/catalog/images/34-408.jpg The other cable you need to find is the one which is supplied ~4volts make sure you check this with a multimeter (5) and is normally a red wire. This then should be connected to the other lug available on the push switch. 5 Then turn the ignition on and push the button to find that the modes change : p.s the other cable which is left spare make sure it is covered as is a 12v supply. Enjoy Ryan.

The midrange will be better on yours mike due to the VVTI adjusting the valve timing and the peak power on jays will almost definatly be down to the Greddy manifold. As found an extra 42bhp recently on a car i have mapped which has just changed to a greddy manifold. The VE after 5k is dramatically changed with aftermarket intakes

Nope Jays is 'Auto - Tuned' also

Very good piece of kit and good price I always use innovate equipment when mapping Ryan

Yes please pass the details over Thanks