Mike_Mac

Good news - I should be able to free mine up by this weekend. PM sent.

I'll take these if Mikey doesn't (if my bloody work computer will let me post this time)!!

n Boost has hit it on the head There is absolutely nothing wrong with showing respect, when possible, for another's religion. I think it's a sensible action that doesn't inconvenience the officers so why not? When you visit a Catholic religious site in Italy you are expected to cover your shoulders and wear respectable clothing and i'm sure that if officers were to enter a mosque, or temple they would, again when possible, take off their shoes as a mark of respect. This is no different.

I may (may) have mine available for you to borrow soon. I'll know on wednesday. I'll PM you regardless to let you know one way or t'other.

PM on the way

Thanks for all the replies - pretty much what I thought tbh. The road's status is quite difficult to pin down in terms of ownership, as it was the access for the local mill until there was further development (around 1900 ) of housing, but it's definitely not owned by the council. My gut instinct tells me that even if it turns out I can do it with a SORN i'll probably tax it anyway just to avoid the aggro of having to constantly battle clipboard hitlers who think otherwise.

My house is accessed by a private road leading down to it that is a public right of way on foot only (AFAIK). Residents have easements allowing them access, so it is used for parking by them. The council has no responsibility to maintain this road. Do I still need to have road tax when parked there, or is it still likely to be classed as the public highway? Is there any site that may help me find out? Thanks for any advice.

Lots - but not many with the deep dish rears. Most are Cat C, so they're not being stripped. I'm looking at getting a complete car and replacing it's alloys with the standard 16" ones (i'll probably be keeping it too depending how I like driving it).

I'm assuming there should be a link there? If you mean the Lexus owners club then i've applied for a membership - just waiting for it to come through.

I'm looking for a set of the TTE 9 spoke 18" alloy wheels that were fitted to the Mk1 Lexus GS300 Sport. Kerb marks and scuffs are not important, but they must be straight and not buckled. A new set would be around £1200+ from Lexus, so that is not an option ( - Lexus). Dimensions are 18"x8.5" Front and 18"x10" rear (the deep dish rears were an optional extra). Does anyone have a set (that they don't want).

The problem is that the media only report deaths, not progress. This, plus the way the press slants its reporting of casualties, gives a massively negative slant to what's going on. This is not the case, but does allow the media the chance to look serious, knowledgable and warry while they ask politicians leading questions with a superior expression. What the media don't show is things like the redevelopment of Sangin; with a bazaar now operating and people returning to areas that were previously deserted. The same thing can be seen in Musa Qal'eh where a lot of good information is coming in from the locals who have moved back to areas they'd fled previously. The vast number of people that turned up to register to vote across Helmand also speaks volumes. Yes the Taleban still have areas where they are strong, and this is where people die when we assault them and clear them out, like we did last Christmas in Nad-e-Ali. Again what the press don't report is the casualties suffered by the Taleban at the same time. The problem we find is holding and continuing to provide security to these cleared areas, because our numbers are capped way below what is actually required - that's a question for Politicians who expected us to fight two wars while being budgeted for one. This doesn't mean any gains are wasted; just that it takes longer to capitalise on gains made. This makes it easier for the Taleban to attempt to re-infiltrate. The US surge into Helmand should go a long way to stopping this allowing our gains to be exploited fully. In a shooting war people will die, which while unfortunate is a fact of life in the armed forces. You can't protect against everything and the bad guys play to win as well. Whilst the Snatch, for example, was inappropriate (designed for Northern Ireland) the only alternative until better vehicles were procured was walking. Much has been done since then to improve things, but it takes time and money to do so. Our armed forces were set up to fight a conventional war, not a counter-insurgency and the vehicles then reflected that - being designed to resist direct weapons fire, as opposed to IEDs and mines. Things are far better now with Mastiff, Viking, Jackal etc, which are all superb vehicles. Funnily enough i've recently heard some media reporter asking why lightly armoured vehicles like Viking are still being used. The answer is because they're the most mobile platform we have and are immensely capable. If you tried covering them with more armour (and they're pretty well protected now) they'd be useless and a big enough device would still take them out regardless of how much protection you can pile on. In my view the media need to stop looking to score points against Politicians through constantly negative reporting and try a bit more to be balanced. By ignoring the gains our soldiers die to provide they are dishonouring their memory just as much as the placard waving idiots that turned up during the Royal Anglian Regt's homecoming parade. Perhaps they should focus instead on the fact that we are managing to provide slow but measurable progress despite being cut to the bone in funding and manpower, while further cuts are being lined up in the guise of a Strategic Defence Review. The choice is simple -either the government accept that we are funded for homeland defence only and stop trying to play on the world stage, or accept that we are in a shooting war and resource us accordingly.

I like spoilerless with no bodykit - leaves the car with nice smooth flowing lines. And the reason I've quoted your post staylor - are those the Lexus alloys that are pretty much the same as stock? They look good if so!

Bo**ocks! Went out the morning and decided to check the other end of the connections (into the driver's side kick panel and the fuse box). Before I started checking the wiring I decided to double check the 10 A 'Gauge' fuse, which was just as whole as the other three times i'd checked it. However, just in case I swapped it with another 10A fuse and bingo - all is working. I didn't have time to dig any further, but I suspect there's a hairline fracture in the fuse itself that can't be seen normally! Lesson learned - always check your fuses with a multimeter too! I didn't have time to dig any further, so hopefully this was the only problem and not the symptom of a deeper cause! Now I just need to put the dash back together again!

Dimmer Switch and Backlights work fine and are on a different circuit to the stuff that's blown.

I have removed the entire dash and i'm 99% that all multiplugs are correct across the dash - that plus the lack of blown fuses and apparent connectivity is what's got me stumped.

I've just re-fitted my dash after it was completely removed. On startup the engine ran fine, bu the instrument panel dials and most of the warning lights around them weren't working : Not Working: Speedo dial Rev Counter and MIL light Temp. and Fuel Gauges and the Cruise, T/C and Hazard lights (Full beam light ok though). Working: All RHS warning lights (Oil, Engine Management etc). All LHS warning lights (Door, Seatbelt, A/B etc). P,R,N,D,2,1 lights on rev dial are fine. L/R indicator lights. Full beam warning light. Backlight O/D light, Manu light. Odo and hazard lights button. I'm sure it's just the dials themselves, as I can still hear the cruise ECU clicking as I engage cruise, so I checked the wiring diagrams on this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=17057&highlight=dash+pin and there seems to be a common power supply to all these areas (yellow cable), which has a 10A fuse. I've checked all my fuses and there was a Rad 2 (20A) fuse blown in the engine bay, but all others were fine, including the ones in the driver's footwell. There were also no error codes stored. I've checked all the multiplugs I removed to get the dash out and the yellow power wire from the instrument panel back to its source (I think) on the orange multiplug in the passenger footwell for continuity. All seems fine and that's about where my knowledge (and wiring diagram) stops! Can someone with more electrical knowledge advise me if there's any other fuses or relays I can check, or am I doing something wrong? As a footnote there are two connectors which don't seem to go anywhere (see pics). Are they meant to be loose like that, as I can't see where they might fit? #1 is behind the stereo and #2 is just below the Cruise ECU.

I'm sorry she what? Is there any chance of a Google map picture of this magical roundabout where you go from the middle lane into the left lane when exiting - without checking your blind spot? If she'd gone from the middle lane into lane 2 of the exit (assuming there were 2 lanes) and hit you then maybe she could've argued, but middle to left... She's the one that changed lanes! I take it her insurance company has accepted liability?

Previous gen Supra wheels perhaps?

SMAKIBBFB

Bish bash bosh! Cheers Jake - puts my mind at rest before I commit to removing hoses - and Serck have a branch in Exeter!

I'm in the middle of a full interior strip-down. While the dash is off I'm replacing my heater matrix and my A/C expansion valve. Everything is now stripped (I only found Jezz's guide AFTER this of course ) and i'm about to take the heater unit off the bulkhead to get at the matrix. I now need to de-gas the A/C, remove the 2 x coolant pipes that lead into the bulkhead and also the A/C pipes that go to the evaporator. Before I do this I have a few questions: 1 - Will there be much leakage from the matrix once I've removed the two hoses and got it out? If there is can I expel the coolant in there beforehand? (bearing in mind i'm working from the roadside and don't have any facilities). 2 - Is there any cheaper option than paying Toyota £290 for a new matrix, other than second hand, which i'm not interested in? 3 - Is there any point in replacing the evaporator while everything's stripped? It seems fine, but i'd rather not have to strip the dash out again. Any help is appreciated.

I'd be interested in the first cat if you wanted to split them?

I'm not sure what you mean here - if you're talking about BPU mods to a stock setup then the boost is raised across the entire power-band, due to the overall loss of restriction - not just when #2 comes online. Yes your final boost will be higher once both turbos are spinning, but that's reflected by increased boost all the way up to that figure as well.

Saw you passing me today on the way to Plymouth on the A38. You waved and I waved back. First Supe i've seen for ages on that road, although i'm normally in my commuting car! Very nice looking Supra you have there and a lovely colour too.

As Dnk's said - if your O/D buttong doesn't work then it'll probably be a fault with the button's cables - they can snag and break in the gear lever, or the connector under the gear lever may have loosened. If your O/D works then it'll probably be a code 42 as Digsy said - which could be a loose speed sensor on you gearbox, or again a connection in the dial binnacle. Search for code 42 and you'll get lots of hits. If it's the O/D switch then a new one isn't too much from Mr T.