Mike_Mac

The music... The windscreen sticker... The whole car... Just.. NO!

In that case I'll definitely have them. Can you PM me on how you'd like payment please Keron?

Is an NA #1 Cat TT compatible? I assume not!

If the sale on the black ones falls through I'll have them (too late as usual!)

I need to have a quick look at a UK spec car's wiring loom before I start work on my J-Spec. Are there any UK spec owners living near either Exeter (Weekend), or Salisbury (During the week) who would be ok with me having a peek around their P&J? All I need to see are the front seat connections and inside the engine bay.

What was their advice? Might be things there useful to others possibly.

... who is also allowed to vote and reproduce free of charge... Bugger!!

Not yet - was away Yesterday and about to go out today, so not had time.

I wouldn't call it hate; apart from the wheels the rest of the looks I couldn't give a stuff about, as it's down to personal taste. I just don't see the point in making a car dangerous to drive and illegal on the road. Illegal on the road because it's set up for the track - I can understand. This? Nah!

One thing I've always wondered - What is the point of putting that level of camber on the wheels? What is it meant to achieve? Is it just to look good, or is there some strange mechanical benefit behind knackering a set of tyres every few thousand miles while being totally unsafe on the road as you go? Finally, how can a car with that done to it's suspension geometry ever get through an MOT test? ETA - I see the Front Front Mounted Intercooler idea is back. No1BoyRacer will feel vindicated!

I'll be ordering front/rear pads and discs definitely - just glad I hadn't confirmed my order with Toyota yet!! I may also order shim kits, but I think I've got a set already somewhere. I'll PM you tonight with a definite order.

I'll be interested in these Chris, once i've got mine off and see how bad the existing pistons are. I'll e-mail you once I know and have checked my bank balance!

Yes - although I wouldn't need heated seats if the car was on fire - always an upside if you look hard enough!

Just been looking into that and it does seem the better option - the kick panel fuse box has a space for the heated seats and there's a spare fuse location I can use for the headlight adjusters. Allows me to fuse both of them without risking overloading something else and hacking into the loom too much!

In some cases but not this one - the connector block at the seats is the same, but it's missing the two wires. Likewise the heated seat switch connector isn't on the J-Spec loom, because unlike some other options which were common the J-Specs never had heated seats. same with adjustable headlights and headlight washers.

I'm just working out the wiring to install UK heated seats and headlight adjusters into my J-Spec. I've pretty much worked out the pin-outs for the switches and where i'm going to draw the internal light power and earths from, but could do with some advice on how best to source the main power and earth for both systems. I'm looking at the Cig Lighter as the most obvious source. It's rated at 15A and this is what the heated seats would have required too. My concern is that i'm also drawing the power for the headlight adjuster motors from it too, as well as whatever may be plugged into the Cig Lighter port, so I have a few questions: 1 - Although both these are unlikely to be on often, or at the same time, what sort of loads will they draw if they are both on together, as well as something else plugged into the Cig Lighter and can the Cig Lighter take it? 2 - Is there a better way of spreading the power draw across other sources in the car's loom? 3 - Does it matter where I earth them, as to avoid hacking into the loom too much I'd prefer to run a local earth to the vehicle body at each switch if possible. Would this cause any problems?

Aha! Well reminded - better edit the title - cheers! To the Mods - can someone make that change to the title please? Thanks!

I've just re-coloured my front seats in black and want to get the back matching, but doubt the dye I have will work on PVC! Anyone have a set of decent UK rear seats, in Black preferably? (I'd be happy to swap my existing PVC one, but I doubt there'll be any takers!

Mainly because i've just renewed the fluid, but seeing as i'm about to get a load of 5.1 for my accord I may just do the Supe too. At least I have some options now though!!

Good one - thanks guys. The reason i'm being so tight about it is that it's pretty much brand new 5.1 fluid in there, so no point wasting it!

I am about to refurb Front and Rear calipers, but cannot find anything in the UK to plug the brake hoses while the calipers are removed. I have braided steel lines, so even if I was happy to clamp the hose it's not an option. Is there anything that isn't a bodge I can use to seal up the caliper mounting point on the hose?

As above i'm about to wire in Heated Front Seats and have the switch, but Toyota don't sell the multiplug that fits it anymore. Has anyone got a loom with this M/P on it they can sell me? Saves making up something with just connectors and insulating tape!!!

There's one here - just needs re-furbished: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LEXUS-GS-300-SPORT-ORIGINAL-ALLOY-WHEEL-CENTRE-CAP-/310249030662?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item483c488406#ht_2056wt_905

When I did mine the original owner had installed a speedo converter and then branched it off to the odo, so it was also clocking up in miles. When I properly converted the odo to miles internally I had to revert all this back to stock. Therefore... One of the ways the OP could have converted from miles to km, while keeping his original odo unmolested could have been to install a miles-km converter into the wiring to the odo. This would involve hacking into the loom and still leaves him with an incorrect mileage reading. The way I have suggested is far simpler than that.