Mike_Mac

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Yes, Ensure window is down. Remove door card - Just screws - be aware of the one hidden by the handle. Then disconnect the multiplug Remove grey plastic speaker base unit - Plastic box recessed into the door - Just screws again. Unpeel the plastic sheeting that was behind this unit and you can then look inside the door and see the two nuts holding the mirrors in place. It just needs a small socket set with deep sockets (10mm IIRC) to get them undone and you can pull the mirror up and disconnect the loom. Job Done!

Especially an NA engine. Surely you'd have some comeback against the seller. I thought that even with a private sale the sale of goods act still applies and the goods still have to be reasonably fit for purpose unless stated otherwise? I'd check your legal ground first.

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It sounds like you've got something similar to what I initially had set up, ie a 12v feed going from the dash switch and cutting straight into the green/white feed to the light, except your only cuts into one of the lights. This is something I've looked at in great detail recently when I re-wired my fogs and dashboard and the best thing to do out of all the solutions out there is to wire your fogs as per Pete Betts' diagram with 4 resistors in the circuit also. This gives you two fog lights and no bulb blown warning. Pixelfill wrote an excellent How-To on this, so search for threads started by him about fog lights. It's simple enough if your methodical and check each connection as you make it. EDIT: Found it: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=80479&highlight=fog+Lights I've just finished mine and have also wired in a UK switch that lights a warning bulb next to the oil warning lights, but that's a whole extra level of hassle unless you're a picky bugger like me!

Seriously I wouldn't bother. Just plan it out a bit in advance and be methodical. So long as you keep checking and label each wire as you cut it you'll be fine.

I've had to deal with similar, or identical problems and the advice below worked for me. Total cost = a few quid down at Maplins and a few afternoons DIY. Don't be put off by any dismantling - it's quite simple if you're methodical. PETROL GAUGE: Fill your tank to the brim. Strip back the dash and remove the instrument pod. Take all the covers off the dial faces and remove the fuel gauge needle (search for how to do this and be gentle). Then refit the instrument pod and turn the ignition on. Wait for a few minutes to allow the needle mount to reach the correct position and then push the fuel needle back on pointing at max. Re-assemble everything and the gauge should now read as normal. FOG LIGHTS: See here for how to do your fog light conversion. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=80479&highlight=Fog+Light I have tried all other ways of doing it and this is the one that works properly. Agian be methodical and it's no problem. A knowledge of soldering helps too. The resistors in that diagram stop the bulb-blown warning. Just make sure all your connections are good and properly earthed and you'll be fine. MIRROR SWITCH: I have a spare electric mirror adjustment switch sitting around if it turns out you need a new one. I'll let you have it for the cost of postage. If it's not the switch then while your dash is in bits check all the wires on the multiplug that come off it. If that doesn't fix it then I'm stumped!

IMO that is a horror of a car, but I'm a stock look fan!! I'd be more interested in why it's only £5000 and sold via a mobile number? If you're interested in a stock Supra close to you I know of a good condition 1996 white J-Spec TT Auto Supra for sale in Exmouth. 45K km with bonnet scoop and UK Alloys and Brakes. Originally it was up for around £7500, but he's only wanting around £6K for it now due to it having been marked when an overhead cable fell on it. this caused superficial marking to the bonnet, roof and spoiler. If you do have a look at it you'll see the marks are barely noticeable and I can post pictures on Monday if you want. If you want I can speak to the owner and arrange for you to have a look? Mike.

Happy with that - PM me when you know they're definitely up for sale and we can discuss the price.

No probs - I found that method only after giving some 'diagnostic expert' £60 to tell me there was a fault with my A/B. He'd been using the wrong terminals! Took me 5 seconds and it's worked fine ever since.

No it doesn't work - I only posted it up for the Hell of it!! Unless there is a genuine fault with your Airbag system it will work.

To reset your airbag light look here: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/airbag_light/airbag.htm Far better than the previous owners solution of removing the bulb.

Not for me, but for a friend of mine who currently has mismatched H/L (UK on O/Side, J-Spec on the N/Side) He is looking to go either re-furbed J-Spec or facelift and has already found a facelift N/Side H/L. He therefore needs either a facelift, or J-Spec O/Side H/L to get a complete set. Anyone?

I'd be interested in the folding mirror switch's multiplug and a length of loom if possible?

I'm looking for a set of chrome dash rings for a three dial pre-facelift dashboard. I'm thinking there may be a few knocking about now after the stainless group-buy and they're the last thing I need for my dash rebuild. Anyone got a set of these in decent nick they don't want, as £55.00 new is a bit steep!

One that I'm looking at when I get an aftermarket backbox is the Tanabe Medallion touring. Someone posted a link to how they sound on a Supra, both in and out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=105302&highlight=Tanabe See post #10. Plenty more options available using the search button.

I am looking at filling one of the blank warning light spaces next to the oil warning lights with a rear fog indicator light. The contacts are there and I am confident that I have traced the wire that supplies the feed to that contact. To do this I am thinking of running a feed wire from my switch to the wire for that contact. The question is: will a 12v feed be too much for the bulb, or will I have to splice in extra resistors etc to get it to work?

Cheers guys that gives me an idea on budget.

As in the title I am trying to find out a reasonable price for a J-Spec Bare Engine for when I replace mine. Anyone got any ideas what range I'm looking at?

UPDATE Gearlever Surround: SOLD,, Paid, Dispatched. Ashtray: SOLD,, Paid, Dispatched. Stereo Panel: SOLD, Awaiting Payment Ignition Panel & Upper Panel: SOLD, Awaiting Payment. Speedo Surround: SOLD Paid, Dispatched.

Bump!! Someone must have done the blown bulb to foglight indicator conversion here...?

RIGHT... I've just stripped out my existing Foglight conversion and it is using no relays at all. I have drawn a quick sketch of what's in there, which is attached. WTF is that blue cable all about and is it safe, usable etc? Also I have now found the diagram to use the bulb blown light as foglight indicators, but there is no clue as to what relay I need. Anyone got an idea?

Yes it is and there is a slight split on one IIRC, but it still screws in tightly. Final prices inc postage now in, I will send out a PM to all with the prices and my details soonest. Mac

Cheers Pixelfill. Having had a chance now to look at what I have reference point 3. I've realised the only way to get an fog indicator on the gauge is to lose either the 'Cruise' or 'slip off' indicators, which I don't want. Therefore I hace two options: Use the bulb blown warning as a fog light indicator. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for that, as the Morris addition to Pete Betts' one didn't make sense to me? Or, Put the fog indicator in one of the spare slots next to the oil warning lights, but again my wiring knowledge stops at putting new stuff in, so does anyone have any advice?

Ok - Just off to the post office in the next couple of hours and wil get back after that with individual posting for each package. Ta. Mike