cwtt

Wez- FYI you have me listed with the wrong turbo. On the chart it should be "BL 67." (Not DBB) You have me listed as BL 61 DBB which is incorrect.

I assume you mean 500whp correct? Most car enthusiasts dont talk about flywheel hp. And do you want to make 500whp on race gas or pump? Those are huge differences. 500whp on pump gas would put you up in the 67mm territory. I made 530whp on pump gas w/ a 67. If you want to do it on race gas, then the 61mm would do it easily. But a 61mm turbo won't make 500whp on pump gas.

There should be a small dip. But nothing to large. The dip is because the second turbo is starting to spool.

Remember, only the primary (the one closest to the motor) is used by the ecu for gas mileage. The rear o2 is used for emissions. So I wouldnt worry about the rear o2 at all. Infact I dont have one

The EBV only pre-spools the turbo, nothing else. So you can rule that out. You are 100% positive that the EGCV VSV and EGCV actuator are working?

Have you guys seen these hybrid turbos created by speedforsale? They make over 500whp reliably! http://www.speedforsale.com/newsite/techarticledisplay.php?flag=readmore&vid=15 I have a single turbo so I don't need these. But this would be a great upgrade if you have blown your stock turbos. They make both US and JDM spec upgrades. I think you have to send them your stock turbos though.

Agreed! 235's will be very narrow. I have 295's and they fit pretty easy. You just have to get the correct offset. The offset can really make a good looking wheel look great.

Ok stupid question because I live in the US. What is a show plate? Is it a license plate that covers your real plate at cars shows?

I would agree and try to do the GTE swap. In the long run you will be much happier. You know the motor will be able to take a ton of power, you can buy all the parts at Toyota, and there is a ton of aftermarket support. Even with just bolt ons (BPU) you will make 400hp all day and it will be very reliable. A GTE motor will be much more reliable than a NA-T in my opinion.

You should definitely go ahead and replace all those rubber hoses. Infact if those hoses are cracked, then I gurantee that other hoses are even worse and it will definitely effect the performance of your car. I would replace all the rubber hoses if I were you.

Now are you talking about 600whp on your dyno? Because that would be a lot! Basically what I am asking is do you think you will max out that pump? I have almost the exact same setup. The only difference is I have the HKS Vpro vs your AEM and I have cams. I have the same turbo, injectors etc. Oh, I run two Denso pumps/lines instead. That is why I was curious. A stock TT 6spd over here would dyno about 290whp. There is roughly a 15% loss on our dyno jet dynos. Your dyno is more like our "mustang dyno". It is more realistic, but puts out lower numbers. There are pros and cons to each. Also, I think I read that you are putting an intake manifold on. Don't you think that is overkill on our small 67mm turbo? I know you were complaining about the lag cams create. Wait until you put that intake manifold on! That moves the whole power band way over to the right. But I am interested to see the differences. If you are interested. Here are my dynos with the BL67: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=501926

Thanks! They made Anthracite (often called monkey shit brown MSB) for 1993 I have heard rumors that there were a couple that made it to 94. But most of them were made only in 1993 so it is a very rare color. I try to keep it on race gas. Pump gas over here is 91octane (PON) equivilant to your 95octane (RON). Which really puts a damper on the performance. It limits me to 530whp, which is not nearly as fun as 650! But I do have a gas station down the street from my house which has 111octane! (probably like 120+ in Europe) So of course I like to fill up at that station when I have the funds. Ah good eye! Yes I have all three types of headlights made. I have the Euro glass, the 98's, and the 93-96 plastic. I was just trying to decide which one I like better. lol That is exactly what happened. Yes she has a sister, but she is a brat. haha

How much wheel horse power will that bosch pump support? I am used to the US Supras where they all run dual intank pumps. I like how simple your setup is. Also, what is the difference in hp between your dyno and a dynojet in the US? I ask because I made 651whp on a dynojet in the US with the same turbo as you. Awesome thread by the way.

You hear a rattling sound? I would bet money that your egcv actuator is loose/broken. It controls the flap that is inside the exhaust. When it is broken or loose it rattles around. This would also cause weird problems with the number two turbo coming online.

Here is a different dyno on a different day, just for fun: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=501926

lol if you don't believe my dynos, then how about I show you the 3 different dynos I have been on that all produced the exact same numbers My numbers are actually not that impressive. Most people with 67mm turbos hit around 700whp. But I wanted my tune very conservative. But why do you think people wouldnt believe my horsepower numbers? These are average numbers you would get on a US dynojet.

Justin Nenni tuned it. He was 11/10 haha. 10/10 for sure. He is amazing.

Stop saying NOS! haha NOS= a company. Nitrous is the proper term. That is like calling all shoes Nike.

I am a noobie on this site. I thought I would come over here and meet some new people. I have a lot of experience with US spec Supras. I have owned two low mileage TT 6spd Supras. Right now I have a 1993 Anthracite Supra with 57k miles (6spd). Here are some specs on it. It is just a normal setup. I wanted to build a street setup, not some monster drag car. It doesnt make that much horsepower, but it is a blast to drive and it holds its own. Feel free to ask me any questions. Setup: Stock 3L motor (59k miles) HKS Fcon V-pro HKS Knock Amp/ wideband HKS 264 cams BL67mm .68 a/r Turbo Kit 3" downpipe/ Blitz Nurspec Exhaust Precision 800cc injectors, Dual Denso Pumps, etc... Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller And a bunch of other bolt on parts that won't effect the numbers... HKS DLI, ATI Crank dampener etc... Power 527whp/441wtq - 19psi 91 octane 651whp/550wtq - 28psi 111 octane NOTE- I had a bad exhaust leak between my turbo and manifold which caused it to spool slower. 1/2 the gasket was actually missing! So it didnt' spool as fast as it could have. Race gas 111 octane (28psi) Dyno day: Engine (dirty)

First of all it is "EBV" exhaust bypass valve. It allows exhaust gases to bypass the first turbo and pre-spool the second turbo. This helps get the second turbo spinning so that the turbine is not slammed with exhaust gases at 3800rpms when the second turbo comes online. This is one of the reasons why the second turbos go out first. People don't know their EBV vsv or EBV actuator have gone bad and the second turbo is no longer getting pre-spooled. After a while, the second turbo goes out because it is getting slammed with exhaust gases instead of easily spinning up the turbine. Does that make sense? Your FAQ should say this taken from http://www.97supraturbo.com "Exhaust Bypass Valve (EBV): This controls the prespool of the #2 Turbo prior to full transition. It also has a VSV and Actuator that is controlled by the ECM. It is a linear acting actuator that starts to open at about 10.2 Psi and it is fully open around 14 Psi. As it opens, it starts the compressor blades spinning on the #2 turbo so by the time the actuator is fully opened the #2 has enough velocity to have a “smooth” transition at time of full boost. Typical boost characteristics will show peak psi at or around 10Psi starting 2200rpms to 2500rpms, holding there until 3300-3600rpms. Then a slight dip in boost just prior to full transition. After full transition (around3800 rpms}, the EBV system is non functional."

The EBV has absolutley nothing to do with controlling boost. It is only to pre-spool the second turbo. go to http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles and look at the instructions on how to install the boost controller.

Yes check ALL of your VSV's and vacuum hoses. Also check to see if you have any boost leaks. Do not ditch the sequential system. TTC creates a ton of lag and makes no more power. It was meant to be used as a diagnostics tool. It has also never been proben to be any more reliable to the turbos. Just take your time and go over everything. Most likely there is a vacuum line or something simple that has come off.

Glad to hear your car is running good again! Make sure your plugs are also gapped around .028" That is what most of my friends who run cams/ single turbos run.

Wait what?! Slow down. It seems like you have a lot more than one problem. So let me get this straight... your wastegate line was broken? Do you know how bad that is ? That is how you blow up your motor/ turbos. First fix that immediately. The ecu will hit a 'boost cut' if you hit 14psi for more than 3seconds I believe. This is to prevent you from doing harm to your motor. You will need a FCD to prevent this or a BCC if you have a US spec Supra. Sounds to me like you are hitting boost cut.

NO. This is a missconception. All the EBV does is pre-spool the second turbo.