Scott

The numbers aren't that important until a certain level. 130 seems a little low to me and would indicate even wear IMO. The reason for all the cylinders being even, I think, is to show if rings have cracked etc. It would be blindingly obvious that something was wrong in x cylinder if it was down a lot more than the others. Dropping from 160 to 130 over a couple of years is a fair whack IMO. Of course there may be mitigating factors but it would explain the power drop.

I have been wondering about one of these for a while. What is the honest battery life on them? Say watching movies. How long does it last in the real world?

It's a concept car, those are always mental with crazy claims. Look at the Jag on Topgear last season for example.

Sorry if I've missed it but have you had a compression test done?

Thanks very much folks. Had a nice day out at a local Gala day with the family. Will be having a few shandies tonight to see in another year

Yeah that's a little low mate, I would up it a bit as running 1.2bar would raise your EGTs a fair bit which isn't good. I would either take it off and be bore it out a little with a dremmel or try the spare one you have and see what you get with it. You want to aim for around 1.0bar in the summer (now) from the RR on it's own so see what you end up with and adjust accordingly.

Around 18.30 tonight. Aiming for the drive-thru by the looks of it

I meant since the hassles started. When you flooded the engine you filled the chambers with fuel. Pull the EFI fuse and give it a few cranks (10 seconds), leave it for 10 mins then repeat. Stick the EFI fuse back in and give it a crank. Worked for me

Did you dry crank it?

Eloquently put

If you turn the boost controller off that will show you what the restrictor ring is holding the boost to. The boost controller can't lower the boost, it can only raise it, so if you turn it off the car will then boost to it's "natural" level. The level will be dictated by the restrictor ring, ergo telling you approx what size it is. The problem with split vac lines will mean you will be potentially overworking, over speeding the turbo. It's running on borrowed time. Think about it as running the car at 1.4bar, 1.2bar is what the manifold sees while 0.2bar is lost through the leak. It might not go straight away but it WILL go eventually as 1.2 is the maximum safe limit for the turbos to be producing. It would be better to drop the boost down so that you aren't chancing running the turbos outwith their efficiency. Last thing you want to do is lose a set of turbos over a split vac line. You will probably find you are restricting it a little too much, I am at the moment too as my EGTs are a little high. My natural boost is around 0.9 with the RR in, I want to have it 1.0 in low gears and around 1.1 in the higher gears, I'll need to attack it with a dremmel to get it up to spec. That way I am only forcing another 0.1/0.2 out of the system, from it's natural boost level, therefor keeping the EGTs at a safer level. If you need any help give me a shout

I'll take that as a compliment. 4 years we've been here and I'm yet to see you being right

I would have said mini-me but I'm far too pretty

I was waiting for mini-you to reply

Hmm, sounds like something isn't right mate. Your boost controller will most likely be able to control up to 2.0bar, the fact that your car isn't overboosting like mad would tell me something is wrong somewhere. Maybe a split vac line or something like that. I would turn the boost controller down and take it from there. Do you know what size the restrictor ring is? I have a 1.0bar RR in my car and I am boosting at 1.2bar absolutely no bother. An easy way to tell is to turn off your boost controller and see what boost level you get. You don't want to restrict your system too much or you will end up with high EGTs.

You stole my thunder

Average height for a chick maybe.

The boost gauge you have is a warning indicator. If you have the manual for it you will be able to adjust it in order to come in after 1.2 rather than 1.0. For the meantime just ignore it as it is only an indicator based on a setting. As for the boost in the lower gears, if it's an electronic boost controller I would suggest upping the gain setting(if you have it) while leaving the boost setting at 1.2. The gain is what controls the ferocity of the boost (basically). In the lower gears the engine isn't working as hard as higher up, so it needs to be a little more agressive with the boost control. Don't go nuts with the gain as you can easily overboost. A little bit of overboosting at the start is OK as long as you don't run lean (the changeover can be a little lean). Most of the folks on here run like that just fine though

Did someone have to give you a punt to get up that high?

2.0 zetec? Stock block? Un-modified? If those do 129mph 1/4 miles I'll eat my hat. It's clearly modded to the near limits of modding if it's still a 2.0l. Surely you see my point? Comparing something that is so far from stock to something that is stock bar essenstially an exhaust (BPU Supra) just isn't feasible IMO. My point with the hillman imp was that there are always cars out there, of all varieties, that will be extremely quick but have very little base on their original makeup. The guy on the forum said a 300hp RS will be comparible with a 400hp Supra...... no it won't, it'll get toasted. Without grippy tyres it will be left off the line, the advantage that it will have in the lower gears will be lost due to the lack of grip and the upper end of the scale the supra will always stride away. It would need to be very purposefull to contend with a Supra under a ton, after a ton I don't think there is anything that could be done to help it other than gearing.

What's the spec Lee? Got any pictures? What model is it?

You must like some close contact if that's the way you see it. Stay away from people who are sneezing and coughing, try not to let anyone spit on you... wash regularly and you will be absolutely fine. Either that or lock yourself in a room, I'll let you know when it's safe to come out. Remember your tinfoil hat

I'd love an escort cosworth one day. Iconic car for me, I guess I was just the right age when it came along. Now, the Saph is definitely more the drivers car. I drove one a few years back and the steering is just unbelievable. It feels like you are holding the wheels themselves lol. I don't think I would bother with one though, I wouldn't be buying the Escort to drive in anger.... more to look at and generally just have lol.

It's all relative though. I know a hillman imp that can run an 11sec 1/4. Saying an RST can beat a BPU Supra means that the RST has virtually nothing left of the engine, interior and is running slicks. And even then, it will only be at a certain range/point.

Think it's generally a little hoop that goes in the centre of the flywheel.