Scott

Up the top right of the screen you will see a search box. Type in attach images and hit enter then click on the 4th link down. I think I'll do a "search" guide for future reference, seems harder to grasp than attaching images

Can't be that good if you can't get it off

Braised is lovely too though. If it was a choice I would go flame grilled, but for a close second, and a change, slow cook steamed is good too.

No, I see your point. My point is that I think that is what he was asking in the large post. Ie, what tyres are cosher for a world record street legal run. I was guessing that he was asking what he needs to run to be seen as road legal in order to go for the Jap street world record. Unless I'm missing something else? We can all see on youtube what the claims are, he seems to be asking what the official times are and what tyres are being run on those official times.

Try steaming it.

That, and the fact that it actually loosened You must be a pro with the lube

No no, I know that. It's just that in the previous post from Stuart he was talking about the world record and the tyres used. I'm guessing that the official world record for a street car, that he will be looking to compete with, will be on REAL street tyres. Rather than a street car that changes it's shoes at the 1/4 mile door

You've been very lucky with yours. I especially like the loosen the nut off part I hope I get as lucky with mine, a properly stuck set won't budge via conventional methods.

I could be wrong but I think he is the only person in the UK doing this at the moment. I did do a search around a while back, so if there are other places they are well hidden. So at a guess I would say yes. There was a bit of worry initially as he dropped off the radar for a while. Obviously things were changing

Way to ruin the Josh bashing.

Is that proper road tyres though? It's insane the way those cars launch.

Going for it are you then Stuart?

Not sure if you are getting crossed wires here or not. The bit you want to cut off is the drop link. The blue marks in the pic are both ends of the droplink. When you buy a new one it should come with new nuts, so just split the nut. Either use a nut splitter or a dremmel, angle grinder to cut into it. It's a pig of a job but I would recommend doing both sides so they wear evenly (passengers & drivers). If you have a torch, put a lot of heat on the nut. Get it almost glowing red if you can, till you see the boot of the droplink smoking. Do the same on both ends. Once it cools spray it with penetrant (Plus Gas is excellent). Really drown it in the stuff. Again, do the same on both sides. Leave it overnight then try it with the allen key the next day. If that fails get a set of long nose molegrips and try gripping the joint from behind (the bit that rotates when you try to turn the nut). If that fails it's time to get the cutter out. To be honest I wish I had bypassed all that stuff and just went with the cutter as I had to in the end anyway. Up to yourself though

There shouldn't be a limit to be honest. The problem is the offset of the wheels. Only the inner side can be extended, so the wider you get them the further in the wheel edge sits. The outer rim remains the same. You can go nuts and just add spacers though.

Bingo. I take it if it's a worry you just do what you did though. Bit of blutac on the piston and see if it marks it

I wish I had thought to make a set of SS ones at the time. The finish you can get on stainless is virtually chrome. Going to that level I would have got them on a small arbour and done on a mop to finish them off properly. The ali I was using was a top grade so it came up great, and as you say easy to work on by hand, not SS great though lol.

If the allen key doesn't work, just give up and get the cutter in there to remove them. Get yourself some new ones. They are an absolute PITA mate, honestly. I've got an impact gun now so I'm hoping that will make the job better, I'm not holding my breath though. Without doubt the worst job I have done on a Supra, and it wasn't even mine. Mine is still in the queue to have this done

You can get 11" on there at a push. I can't be sure but you may need to roll the arch for that. Might be best to roll it anyway so that you can get a better looking offset.

Alloy is very very specialised so I doubt it. No harm in sending an email though I guess.

To be honest 2 mins with a bit of emery while on the lathe would cure most of the issues. http://www.mkivsuprastar.com/Supra/Interior/DSCF0629.JPG That's what I produced and the mark you see is my fingerprint. That was done with emery, a wipe, brasso and some damn well elbow grease. It took a bit of time but I made sure members were getting their moneys worth. The only reason I was wanting in on this was that they were meant to be stainless steel, in order to match the backing etc. Turns out it's not, and not only that the quality is far less than what has been previously offered, from yourself included. If the machine marks were down to it being stainless it could be understood to a degree, it still wouldn't explain why they weren't properly finished though (IMO). I would still have been happy, taken a set and sorted them myself by hand. Unfortunately I'm off the tools now Honestly, if I put out that standard of work where I am I would have been fired.

Looks like steel wheels.

I'm not that impressed to be honest. Machined is a terrible finished article IMO. I was in talks with him over some bespoke work, his replies were ridiculously slow and for my last question I didn't even get one. If it was Dragons Den I'd be out

Clearly including the price of the car, insurance, petrol, road tax and any servicing. Not to mention the ficticious 4k wheels, they add at least 6k to the mod costs.

That isn't hard though. Trust me, I'm used to cutting hard steel Those cutters would be either torn or shattered (depending what hardening is done). They would need to be made of inconel with a diamond coating to do a proper job on what I would throw at it given the chance

Is Josh the exception that is going to prove the rule?