Scott

Why not? If there is an accident in one car... it only effects the person who covers the no claims It doesn't wipe out the whole policy. You should have a look into it, it's like having 3 seperate policies (for me anyway) but under 1 policy heading.

Phew, tell me about it

Yeah, did a few sets now. Brings them up a treat The facelifts only have 1 seperate loom but you can buy 2 of them and wire them in seperately. Best place to get them is probably Keron if he has them in stock. Remember to get 2 or it'll be a pain.

Who is the main driver of the Rav? If they are going onto the policy too their no claims can be used on the policy also. At the moment I have the following as far as no claims go.... Supra - 12 years NCB - I'm the no claims owner Mondeo - 12 years NCB - I'm the no claims owner Focus - 5 years NCB - Wife is the no claims owner You can get a quote on their website. They tend not to do much else for you over the phone. Give the online quote a spin and that will give you a ballpark figure to barter with

The ebay ones are generally good enough. Go for the clear ones though with the chrome indicator bulbs to keep the orange away altogether As for the lights, it's generally easier to refurbish them in facelift style.... http://www.mkivsuprastar.com/Supra/Glass%20Angel%20Eyes/16062009094.jpg http://www.mkivsuprastar.com/Supra/Glass%20Angel%20Eyes/DSCF1905.JPG

Many happy returns

There isn't really a main car. You choose which car you want to have the no claims used against, whichever one you choose is the one that will acrue also. I called them up and managed to split my no claims at one point. It's usually good to have at least 1 years no claims on each car with obviously the most no claims going onto the highest policy.

They will fit but they won't look particularly good, if they are pre-facelift. Best idea is to get facelift ones and fit those while you are fitting the bumper.

I've not tried insuring the Supra on a classic policy yet, I will be next year when I go single as I think that will be a step too far for Admiral. I personally wouldn't use anything else when insuring more than one car, where it is an option. This year I paid £794 to insure the Supra, a Mondeo ST TDCi and a Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec. Myself and my Wife are insured to drive all 3 cars, they are all set at 8k miles and neither of us have any points. I think the Supra worked out around £390. Mods were declared also.

It is a Supra though? Need to get a game of 20 questions going to figure out what you have here

I don't know anyone, this is kind of my point. A statement was made that they will be faster, I don't see what difference a built box would make to a BPU car as it won't be making any more power anyway hence why I asked the question. In the Auto VS manual as far as the context of this thread goes there is VERY little difference between the 2 of them. In fact, as I said, the manuals would be faster than the Autos without having a TC in place. If a built box with a stock TC is faster, I'm curious as to why and how we know this.

I always thought it was best to run it as close to the intake as possible when running aftermarket. That way you drop the pressure at the source. It's not as if the charge suddenly bypasses the intercooler.

Is this still the fastest 6spd? Fastest auto I can find is this.. Only 0.32 of a second in it according to that. I know that's a lot in drag racing terms but there doesn't seem to be the second of difference claimed. Also there was a video on here of a BPU 6spd doing an 11.6 or 11.7 quarter IIRC, in the video it showed how to properly shift a manual. In fact I think you may have commented in that video Dude. Not a million miles off TDRs Auto that ran 11.5. Pretty sure in the US the BPU manuals are even quicker than the video I mention. Is there a second between those guys?

It will slightly, basically if you double the volume in the vacuum line, you double the time it takes to activate. Since they take next to no time to activate though I don't think it would be much to worry about to be honest. It won't affect it's operation though, if that's what you are asking. It will still work just as well and just as effectively, there will just be a very slight delay in it operating.

That gun is very tidy looking. Reminds me of Halo or something like that.

3/4 UNF IIRC. Any old plate should do the trick to be honest. The seals allow the tolerancing to be pretty loose. Don't go for any old junk if you're looking for an oil cooler plate though.

I've not seen any BPU Autos manage 10.5 seconds. Are you saying that if TDR had a built auto box he would have knocked a second off his time? I understand that they will be faster when getting into proper drag racing but we are talking BPU levels here. Just out of curiosity, is there a second of difference between the fastest Auto and the fastest Manual on the strip?

Yeah Jamie said to me in PM. I think it will be more hassle than it's worth as I would have to machine off the spacer and weld on a divided spacer to get the Hcover divided 6765 on. Looks like non-divided it is Cheers

Are you sure about the details? I'm thinking Val Kilmer.

Not at all Dan, very much appreciate the input/discussion. I've nailed down quite a few parts so I'll try to fill you in..... I bought JamieP's full turbo kit consisting of: Boostlogic T4 Manifold Boostlogic 4" downpipe/midpipe Tial 44mm Wastegate 900cc Injectors Twin Feed FIC Fuel rail GSC 269 Cams As well as the above I also have... Brian Crower Springs & retainers Skimmed Head with Valve Stem Seals refreshed Full Gasket Kit Plans are 7250rpm limit and 700hp map with 'low boost' 600hp setting for day to day driving. 700hp being retained for 'special' occasions. As Jamie has had this entire setup on his car running with a 6765 turbo I want to go down a similar route. The 6765DBB certainly ticks all the boxes for me, other than longevity but I won't be using the car/turbo to anywhere near the extent Jamie did. Needs are that the Hcover is ported, I want to be hitting the figures with relative ease and I wan't reasonable spool. As I say, at the moment the precision billet certainly ticks all the boxes so was just wanting to see what variant to go for regarding A/R and Divided/Undivided

As above really. I'm looking into which turbo spec I want to buy and I was wondering what the advantages/disadvantages are of each? I have the boostlogic T4 manifold which, as far as I am aware, is divided. I think I am correct in saying that means I can go with either style with regards to the turbo? The different setups come with different ARs but they are close enough for it not to matter in that respect. Also, am I right in saying that the larger the A/R the more efficient the turbo becomes in the upper end with a reduction in spool? Any ideas how I can work out what A/R would suit me best for a given turbo? At the moment it's the Billet 6765DBB with ported H cover that I have in my mind. I'm thinking around the 0.80 A/R but not sure if that's overkill or not enough for 700hp. I want to run around 1.7bar max so I'm thinking the A/R will play a huge part in what sort of power I get for that pressure. Thanks

Awesome. I actually forgot about them doing it in the F1 days

Very interested in this. Just going to do a little searching. I was going for the larger housing so I'll see what it'll cost me to get it seperately to see if it is cost effective. I would be looking for the antisurge housing as well though so might not save anything.

Unbelievable. I do believe he would have been having words with whoever put the wheel on (if it wasn't him lol).

It's almost a shame to put it back on