Scott

By the way, snapon aren't all that King dick is the daddy IMO.

The maximum hit so far is 430 and change as far as I know. You will be there or thereabouts with as many trick features as you can handle. The boost control, traction control, knock detection, temperature & pressure monitoring, anti-lag, launch control, etc options are out of this world All on the one fancy little box too

No point in half arsing it mate.... be the first to take it as far as "stock" will go

No no, you were right the first time Solaris ECU, Ryan G Map, TTC at the flick of a switch all fully & properly mapped. Expect around 2k

Save 2k to do it right

The EGCV will be OK if the 2nd turbo is always coming in. The fault you describe is the EGBV (I think anyway, might have gotten them mixed up). When it doesn't work the 2nd turbo doesn't pre-spool therefor you get a huge lull and the boost comes in around 5k. It's the very small one on the top pointing upwards IIRC

I think it's around £150-£200.

Not sure, I can't see any reason why not but stranger things have happened

I think removing the stock cooler is a fairly new mod. Previously only serious modders would have done it. 2 plates has been a mod for as long as I can remember. Sometimes you need 2 oil temp & pressure ports (one for each gauge and 1 of each for the ECU input). Could be a multitude of reasons really.

Did you not take out the stock oil cooler though?

Satnav or google maps should help

You might struggle to get the filter on there unfortunately. I've heard reports that it JUST fits but I've not given it a go yet... will be soon enough. You don't need anything specific for using 2 sandwich plates. Just buy 2 of them suited for the supra, they will come with the centre unions required. Just bolt them onto each other and the job is done. I would have a look into a shorter K&N filter though, to be on the safe side (for all it costs as well.)

Using the elusive google website I have found out the code is a Etching k s Inc exhaust system. Jasma 051 = Etching k s Inc Not sure what that means to you or anyone else. Why not try this funky site out to see what you can find out Here's a starter for 10.

Looks like Jasma to me.

The SMIC and FMIC depend on condition, if yours is in reasonable nick there is no need to go to the expense of changing. All you need is a double decat, FCD, some new plugs, boost gauge and a boost controller to be honest mate. The UK pump & Fuel system is more than capable of handling BPU levels. I would always recommend a decent exhaust if you don't have one on there already. There are ones on ebay for around £300. They are TRD copies and fit the bill very very nicely. If you fancied doing it yourself you could save a few bob but it isn't a big job to do just what is required (the bells and whistles can add up).

Lol, trust me mate you aren't going to get decent tools when you buy them by the kilo. The halfords set you linked to is perfect, it's a little small for kitting out but it will certainly get you started. You don't need to spend good money on hammers and to a certain extent pliers etc (although there is a huge difference depending how surgical you are with them) but when it comes to sockets, spanners and screwdrivers cheap and nasty chrome plated junk just won't cut it. If you go REALLY cheap they won't even be the right sizes.

The sets you have linked to are useless mate. Unfortunately if you're looking to buy a toolkit that size you are going to have to add on a zero to the end of the figure you're looking to spend. Those things are made of butter and will break, bend and disintegrate on anything other than toy car. I would recommend just getting a few sets of the halfords pro stuff. If you spent £200 there it would be money well spent. Socket set, spanner/ratchet set, screwdriver set would get you started.

According to the guy i'm talking to they only offer the 1 now and it's the AN-10 one (7/8). MVP still have both port sizes listed on their website but I didn't contact them to see if it was out of date.

I would advise taking them back mate. Absolutely useless..... and £46 They seen you coming

That's going to look mean as hell

Yeah the o-ring was specifically mentioned too, clearly the linchpin of the thing Just spoke to the guy selling and he said that ORB-10 is exactly the same as AN-10 with regards to the thread. The difference is that the end is cut off and an O-ring is required

Just bumping this as I have been looking into getting fittings for an Aeromotive FPR. According to the Aeromotive website the thread is ORB-10. I have no idea what that actually means but I'm guessing its a -10 size, which would be 7/8 UNF, without the conical end. This is a "ORB-10 to AN-6" downsizer.

Recaro don't do leather, they do what they call "Ambla Leather". It's a very nice leather synthetic that's hard wearing. Feels like supple leather and it's hard to tell the difference

Awww shucks... thanks. If I was a betting man I would go for decidedly average but since I'm not I'll state 450 easy

Flippin heck, I didn't realise the engine was built. Strange route to take but good for the figure finding I guess FWIW I reckon the HP of my car will be up there with the best.... but I guess most BPU owners think that