Scott

Where is it from?

I don't think it works that way. Simple test is to put your heater system to cold and check the temperature of the "out" port If I'm mistaken then the bypass will most definitely be restricted.

Excellent, you can explain it to me now

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-1JZ-2JZ-GTE-ADJUSTABLE-VERNIER-CAM-PULLEYS-/230640511774?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b33eeb1e That's the ones there I have been keeping an eye on. The only thing I'm not too sure about is the quality of the allen screws. They don't look too clever, easily sorted though.

Scratch that, I thought they were more expensive than they are lol.

Bit pricey for me bud

I couldn't live with a 6 puck.

The reason that the heater being open cools the system so well is because it's like a big radiator/heatsink with a fan on it. This cools the temperature of the liquid. With the bypass method the temperature that the sensor sees will probably be the same as with the ports blocked. The trouble is the core of the head will be a FAR higher temperature due to the coolant not flowing over that area. The problem isn't that the coolant overheats with the bypass method, the problem is that the critical areas of the head aren't getting any flow and thus overheating/warping/cracking etc. My say do you follow?

I won't be going with HKS due to them only having 3 fixing points. The ones I am looking at are fairly cheap Ebay ones, but I can't see that being an issue given the mechanics of them. Made from billet aluminium so I'm happy with that. 5 fixing points and the oh so important red

Yeah, it was the little bit of googling I did that showed me just how far out they can be

As far as I am aware that is exactly how it works. It's a valve inside the matrix that blocks off the intake.

They come with their own flywheel but as far as I know they aren't as noisy as some. No matter which one you go for you are going to get some noise. I think JP said the noise on his has quietened right down after being run in properly. I wouldn't recommend the triple plate, they are a bit of a pain with regards to normal street driving. Reading the specs of them from suppliers they recommend them for drag/drift and that sort of driving. Around town street driving they recommend the twin plate max. The carbon discs makes a huge difference to the power/torque that they can handle. I'm almost positive JP is right on the edge, or he has already passed it. It's overkill for myself but it will be spot on for your setup. PS... can you tell I already bugged JP for info about the clutch

Believe it or not I did. I searched for cam gears and cam pulleys though lol. I remember seeing something a few years back but I couldn't remember much on it. Thanks for the link regardless Yeah, this was what I was looking for clarification on. I wasn't really sure how necessary it was or how much of a difference it would make. If it would make a positive step towards reliability, strength etc or whether it would make no odds. Having searched a bit it seems like a sensible move to make so I'm going for it. Watched a couple of videos to get my head around it all and it makes perfect sense to do so Lol, of course I'm buying colour coded ones..... but I have the stock sparkplug cover so they won't be seen...... for now

That would work as well, but there is no reason to have a restricted flow going round a couple of pipes leading to nowhere. It's pointless cooling the pipes that don't go anywhere

Ok this is very much over simplified but it gives an idea of my thinking. With the pipes blocked off the flow will be maximised in the head. With them open the flow will be maximised through the pipes rather than through the head.

I'll do a crappy diagram to show my thinking on it.....

If I was doing it I would definitely block them off. Joining them up will leave a flow area with no resistance, therefor the coolant will take the easy route dropping the flow in other areas of the system. With the matrix in place it will put a resistance in the flow, which I'm guessing is calculated to keep the system balanced. That's just an opinion though, not a definitive answer. I'm curious of the reasons behind both solutions

Sold

Afraid of heights brings up a couple of submissions by yourself Martin. Pretty sure this is one of them

RPS twin carbon/carbon should suit your needs very nicely. That's what JP is running and it's the clutch I plan on getting for my, now modist, goal His is holding silly HP, way more than it is rated to so it's clearly a decent bit of kit. Pricey though, you won't see much change from 2k.

Yup, a single turbo will always be far more efficient than the stock twins. Of course due to this efficiency the charge will be a lot cooler giving a bit more headroom regarding the fuel etc. It's all guesswork though, for the sake of a few hundered anyone doing this is as well with a piggyback. The stock injectors can easily handle that power, they just need tweaked a little.

Anyone interested in a swap. I know the colour co-ordination is getting really anal now but I like the colour scheme of the Meisters. My HSDs are virtually new, they have barely been ran in and done less than 400 miles since fitting. Car is garaged and never left out overnight.

Bump

As above really. They won't be on show or anything like that so I'm just wondering if there is any real advantage to having them over stock ones when it comes to the 2JZ. Cheers

Have around 1k miles on them. They are the ones recommended in the FAQ section for BPU. Bought from Opie Oils. £20 posted.