Scott
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Everything posted by Scott
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wanted Full exhaust system for upto £150 please:) for MOT
Scott replied to C_Strike's topic in Parts Wanted
Can you not just bung the MOT guy a score and be done with it? -
Difficulty changing into 1st and reverse on a 6 speed
Scott replied to Guigsy's topic in mkiv Technical
That's a good thing to look at too. Are you getting major crunching when you are trying to put it into 2nd? If not then it could be the selector that's fooked. The clutch might be disengaging just fine. -
Difficulty changing into 1st and reverse on a 6 speed
Scott replied to Guigsy's topic in mkiv Technical
You don't really need to move the pedal from where it is (as long as it's at a comfortable height). You want to adjust the push rod so that it is further into the slave, giving you a head start before you start pushing on the pedal. Don't go nuts with this though, a few turns makes quite a big difference. -
Definitely, you'll need to wait until you have fixed the dry joints though Remove the battery so that you can clear the codes, put it back and fire it up. Take it for a spin and then check for codes. You don't want to be looking at old stored codes
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If it can be remapped then I would keep it. TTC mod will definitely point out if the tubby is goosed
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Difficulty changing into 1st and reverse on a 6 speed
Scott replied to Guigsy's topic in mkiv Technical
Piece of wee. You just need a couple of spanners. It's adjusted at the back of the pedal. http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/CL.pdf CL-2 you want, it's the first "how to" -
I don't see how something could move without you noticing. Are your fists made of ham?
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If the brake fluid is definitely topped up then it could be a dodgy connection or sensor. The Oil Pressure and EML light will either be down to blown bulbs or dry solder joints in the board.
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Can it be remapped?
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I knew that, I just wanted to see you say it
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No worries
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hi im new to the supra owners club just bought a aero supra and love it
Scott replied to a topic in New Members
Would that not be like asking a dog to miaow? -
The fact you have the blitz access means it can be properly mapped. As long as you do that there will be no issues. Don't push it too hard in TTC. The stock map is very rich and safe. Your current map may be more geared towards performance, giving less headroom
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It depends what you class as easy. It's a relatively straight forward job but you need to be competent with a socket set and have all the appropriate tools for torquing the cams/head etc. There are also 2 ways you can go about the job, one involves taking the head off (gasket kit required) and the other involves the head on (rope trick). The latter can be a little bit uneasy at times due to the fact that if you drop anything you need to strip the head.
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I don't think you need to be as complicated as that but it certainly won't hurt for future reference. If you fit the old belt and pulleys, lining up the marks, you can simply remove the old belt and fit the new one. As long as you don't rotate anything in the process the timing will be fine. Then simply mark the new belt corresponding to the pulleys and give it a few turns to check it. Job done.
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ITRO £1000 if you are paying someone to do it. I'll do it for £500
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Pfft can run the car for ages with the belt off without worry Sounds like a washing machine on high spin
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Difficulty changing into 1st and reverse on a 6 speed
Scott replied to Guigsy's topic in mkiv Technical
This sounds very dodgy. The first thing I would do is change the oil out. The fact that it is heating up so much is never a good sign. Next thing to do is adjust the clutch pedal so that the biting point isn't so low to the floor. Once the biting point has been raised you should find it much easier to select gears. That's the problem I found with my RPS clutch on the MR2 but I didn't have any heat issues. -
I would be surprised if they were ferrous to be honest. I can imagine them getting very rusty on the compressor if they were
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I thought that if the pulleys are marked you just set them all to TDC and fit the new belt. Mark up the belt once it's on then rotate the crank a few times to make sure it all lines back up again?
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Just a bit of a side-note. You can still fit a coolant temp sensor in your hose bud. You just need a bit of straight through pipe with the temp sensor welded into it. Then cut the silicone hose in the centre (maybe take a half inch off it at the same time) and place the pipe in the gap. Of course you would need another 2 clamps but that's easily done. Another option is to put the temp sensor in the upper coolant elbow thing, where the stock sensors are
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I've had a few situations where my mates have bitten off more than they can chew. They generally learn the hard way when I step asside and let the offended party at them for a few swings though My advice is to get out the way, let your mate get a slap then pull the guy off. The guy will feel a bit better for getting a swing at your mate, he'll get a lesson (hopefully) and you won't end up with the chance of going to A&E.
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Si (Heckler) does them bud
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Magic, thanks
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What is included in the kit & what colour are the ends? Is the sandwich plate thermostatic? Is it also MIH? Cheers
