Scott

Well it's done now. I can't see there being any issues, I have only put a small coat over the front side of the actual fins so the rest os free and clear. If I notice any issues I'll post back

Sold

Did they mention the cold/hot start during the mapping? Unusual to leave you with a rough start without a reason. Idle valve is on the back left of the stock manifold. Geo did a thread on cleaning it.

That's not TOO serious then. I would still get it looked at when you can but I wouldn't be braking the bank to do it The fact that it's a bitch to start sounds like the map bud. Maybe needing a tweak.

Should be fine to run for a while without one while you are waiting Just don't be taking it on a track or anything.

Get well soon mate.

Watch the swearing bud, it isn't allowed on the forum. Don't want you heading for the showers early Get in for an edit before you get a pull

Is it definitely blue smoke? If so then it sounds like they are well and truely gone and dropping a fair bit of oil into the chamber(s). The fact that you can turn it off and start it up to see yet more smoke would lead me to believe it's leaking pretty badly. Being warm or cold doesn't really matter, it's a time thing with regards to how much oil drops into the chamber. if left for an hour or so you could imagine a few drops getting in there. If it's happening with you after a few minutes then that would suggest them leaking quite badly.

Chances solely depend on your wallet

I had a look at those ones too bud. You get what you pay for though Looking at some of the ones on ebay you would be better off with a roll of bacofoil.

Circa £100-150 usually. I'm sure most of the traders could supply them.

Pretty sure they are sold. One of the members has first refusal, he is just waiting on a cheque clearing. Will let you know if they are still available. Cheers

To be honest I'm not really fussed about the neatness as it's going to be hidden anyway. I just don't like the tatty look of an intercooler 10 miles after buying it (bugs, dings, dents etc). I was just thinking that if I give it a quick coat of black any of those normal marks will remain hidden. The reason for painting the top/bottom plates etc was just for completeness lol. I wouldn't go with powdercoating as that is far too thick for what I am after. With regards to anodising I'm not sure how well that process would take to an X year old intercooler with a fair amount of oxidising. I'm having a really hard time as it is with the intercooler pipes at the moment Cheers

I'm sure at one point the spoiler was optional. N/As IIRC.

Now before you all jump on the "efficiency" bandwagon (a bandwagon that I was a proud part of ) have a little read and a think about my reasoning here. Will giving the end tanks, top and bottom plates a coat and a quick spray over the front of the intercooler make an impact on its cooling efficiency? I'm thinking that it won't make that much of a difference as the cooling as actually done in the centre of the intercooler rather than the front face. Spraying the intercooler (not going nuts of course) only the very tips of the fins will have any paint on them. The other 3.9" will be bare aluminium in order to provide that air to air cooling we all know and love. Also, looking at my intercooler it has a fair bit of oxidisation on it. Surely that would be far more of an insulator than me giving it a little rub and putting a few thou of paint on will? Looking for constructive input before I go for it

Well, it was Mines that mapped it. They will have locked the map though, the same as Toyota do once they have set it. Power gains over stock are considerable, the fact that it boosts to 1.1bar explains that. Gains for BPU will be mostly mid level linearity. It is a more agressive map meaning that it will pick up better and give better throttle response. Up top I don't think you will see too much of a gain as the turbos are really at their limits with BPU. You might see a few HP more, much the same as a piggyback ECU. I've not known of any cars blowing with the Mines ECU and I certainly never had any issues with it. As said though, I wouldn't drop any lower than 99RON. That's the same as I would say for the stock ecu though.

I'm surprised he's still here. Mods must be on the yacht Edit: oops, sorry. Yot.

Those deloreans are a nightmare to catch 2nd cleanly aren't they.

Ahh well, you lasted as long as you could

Just thinking, that was a bit harsh lol. It might not be goosed, it might just be a line has split/disconnected. It most likely won't be the pressure tank as I think that when it is fooked the 2nd tubby will still come online... it'll just be a lot later. It's been a while since I went through all this stuff though.

Speaking of which, transfer is in today

When in TTC mode take the car for a run on boost. Pull over and turn the engine off. If the Actuators are open (the big one underneath the turbos is the easy one to spot) then the pressure tank is holding pressure and it's fine. If it has closed, the pressure tank is goosed.

The pressure tank is a likely suspect also. Can you not borrow a full set of VSVs just to give them all a check?

Great information, thanks for the work you put in there. Be very interesting to see a stock fuel setup with aftermarket FPR to see how far the fuel can be taken in the real world. If they can push 450hp then the hybrid route just got a little bit cheaper

We don't like chavs unfortunately bud