Scott

I read there was massive internal differences. I left the scene ages ago though so I'll bow to your knowledge. I didn't think the tubby on the gsr would flow 400 either.

That would be pushing the gsr though. The fq360 has the same upgrades as the 400 bar the turbo and a few other bits and bobs. The 360 pushes 400 with absolute ease and reliability. Also hold its money better than a modded to hell gsr

It's not the colour that makes a difference though, in fact black is better for dispersing heat. Its the thickness of the coating acting as an insulator that would be an issue. An anodised rad will be fine, especially black. The matrix is designed to store heat afaik. With the intercooler it shouldn't be an issue because it's only the tips being coated. The frost stuff probably has a high metal content, it will certainly have very good conductive properties whatever it is Cheers mate. Been doing it for years

Will do mate If he doesn't get back to me tomorrow I'll give you a shout.

Sorry mate, I did check I just forgot to let you know lol. The damper I have is absolutely goosed so all I have is the top bracket.

As above, pretty sure they are all the same/similar so any 2JZ variant will do. WHY? Cheers

Someone has already asked about that bud. I'm waiting on them getting back to me as I promised them it. I'm pretty sure it's gone unfortunately. BTW the plugs are going out to you tomorrow. I just took them out and gave them a little clean, they look great

Hi there, thanks for the reply. I've got the regulator and all the gubbins off. All I'm left with is the casing and both ends of the bar sticking out either end. I can't for the life of me split the casing. I think I'm just going to buy a new alternator to be honest. It's the front seal that's missing and there's loads of crap gotten into it. I was going to see if I could get a new seal and give it a good clean but for the price of the ones on ebay I'm thinking it might not be worth the hassle lol. It would be good to know how to take it apart properly if you have got the information though. Cheers

Got mine on the bench just now and I can't quite grasp how to get it apart. I've removed the 3 nuts from the top to remove the outer cover, I've removed the 4 main nuts on the casing itself and I have removed the top charging part via the 6 or so tiny screws. I've hit it gently with a mallet and it will rotate a tiny bit (clearance for the studs) but it won't come apart. Am I meant to do something with the bearings first? Not really sure how to get access to it. Any help would be appreciated.

Just so that you know, there are 2 that you need to remove If they are "stopping" then you aren't pulling hard enough. You will easily shear the stud before being stopped, unless you have arms of spaghetti Get some plus gas on it, leave it overnight then go for it in the morning. Make sure the spanner you are using is of decent quality so that you don't round it off. Taking off the heatshield should give you much better access. I actually can't think of much being in the way TBH. A little torch will work wonders to see where you are working. I must have been lucky as mine came out no bother. The tubby nuts on the other hand brought just about every stud with them lol.

I think the going rate to Europe is about £25 unfortunately. I've sent a few parcels there over the last week (Germany & Netherlands).

Never hurts, the more information on the subject the better

Noone? Thought this would be snapped up.

Still got these available (for now).

Up we go.

Bttt

I wouldn't be upping the voltage personally, I was more impressed with the 800hp worth of flow at the normal operating voltage. Especially compared with the shipped price to the UK

This is what bored me. After 6 months of owning the car I could drive like a loon with my eyes closed while catching 40 winks. The active yaw control and all the other controlling computer gadgetry etc does the driving for you. You can get up to silly speeds in them and corner ridiculously hard while being ham fisted on the steering and lead footed on the throttle. There is very little driver input in the way the car reacts, it's all down to the gubbins between you and the road. I went from an Evo to an MR2 and almost killed myself 1 week in. I had to learn to drive properly, wheras any kid who's played saga rally in the arcade can drive an evo fast. Definitely different horses for different courses though. I'll never have another car like that.

Check the clips regardless, just incase one of the pins is loose or something silly

See that's the reason I asked. I was surprised at it being left with a rough start but as you have just explained it wasn't rough to begin with, it has gotten that way. The way you explained it previously was that the mapper gave you the car with the rough start. I would definitely pull the plugs and get a good look at them (maybe even just replace them for the hell of it), same with the coilpack connector clips etc. It sounds like this is only going to get worse. As said though, it does sound like 2 seperate issues. But I would want to get to the bottom of them, even if it was just to verify the seals were on the way out (liveable).

Why look like a tool when you can easily type RS into google and find the answer?

http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/stainless-steel-overbraid-25-c.asp

When do you need it? I have a full head coming off in a little while. Cams, cam wheels etc.

What a cracking pump. I'd be placing an order for one of those if I hadn't just got myself a bosch. The fact that you can get shipping for $10 is just the icing on the cake. Great link

Cracking buy for someone. I would love a TT V8. The VNTs are just the icing on the cake, look at that area under the graph