Scott

You need to push really hard in the centre of the shoulder just next to where that clip is. You should feel a tiny bit of a hollow. The button is on the outside of the seat (passenger right hand side as you face it, drivers left hand side as you face it).

Did the same myself.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?237277-Scott-M-s-Supra-Build-Thread&p=3998833&viewfull=1#post3998833

Heater matrix hard pipes & any seals.

The little left hand vent has a screw behind it.

Sounds like they were lucky.... http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?577984-350z-6speed-transmission

I hate to say I told you so! Oh who am I kidding, I LOVE to say I told you so

I did it myself in a shed though. It didn't actually take a lot of man-hours at all, I was quite surprised. If you're taking the car to a shop I'd expect it back in a month or 2, you pay a lot of cash for that privilege though.

Not strong enough. No-go IMO

Dunno what you're on about Nic, mine only took 4 years

Budget around 12-15k to go single. That should allow for anything that crops up during the build.

As above, get the relay that I posted earlier and that should sort your problem

55843A from the picture

How much for the drivers side air vent ducting? The bit after the section above the knees.

Yip same on them all. I was going off my nut the first time so I know the feeling well

The button is hidden on the top of the shoulder of the seat. It's under the leather, you need to press around to find it.

I would slow down a bit to be honest mate. Having a figure in your head and asking how to go about it and then scoffing at the cost of a ready built UK single 6spd needs a bit of a reality check. If I were in your shoes and serious about the goals I'd sell up and buy a ready made single. A TT 6spd is going to cost you 12k minimum now for a decent one. It'll cost you another 10k to get a decent 700hp setup which you'll be able to recoup a grand or 2 back from the parts you take off. I've been building my car over the past 5 years to a similar spec, doing the work in my garage (other than mapping) and I reckon I've spent at least £15k. Most of my kit was 2nd hand too.

Many thanks for the kind offer. I do actually have it available to me through work, I've just never bothered to install it lol. It's funny as I curse myself for not installing it everytime I want to use it but as soon as I'm finished the task I forget about it again

Hahahhaaha love it. That's pretty much what I'm stuck with as well as I don't have autocad or anything like that installed

I've not seen it yet lol, I couldn't find it. But I got the jist of it from the description

You say that, but it's not a good idea to give advice to do something when you don't fully understand it. Let me put it to you this way, if I had followed your advice blindly without looking into it and used a 9v drop out relay instead of a low v drop out relay I could blow my engine. The fact is, you've been lucky with your relay selection. Other people might not have been so lucky. Now that I've investigated it fully I'm happy to accept that your method is indeed fine...... as long as a suitable relay is used in the circuit.

You'll turn them into slicks in a month if you don't try hard

TRD is standard £250. The fact that it's a minimalist plate (less numbers) definitely adds value. It's such a small market that I couldn't say what it was. The sites that "value" your plates are full of nonsense though, my previous plate was worth £1200 and I couldn't even sell it for £250 (K60 KAN).

I would be cautious about reaching up to 45%, I think that might be a touch too far but part worns would be a great indicator of that. You could quite happily get a set of 45% part worns and then 40% part worns and see what the difference was. If you weren't happy then drop down to the 275s. IMO 285 with a 40 profile would be the ideal compromise between comfort & handling.

Ooooo ouch. That's probably one of the worst places I've ever accessed on the supra (changing rear speakers). Mine will be going in with the fuel pump ECU

I've gone with the following relay.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-OFF-Heavy-Duty-4-Pins-40A-40-Amp-12V-Relay-12-Volt-Top-Car-Bike-Automotive-/161886771221?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 The main reason is the drop off voltage which is 1.2vdc. This means that the relay will stay enegrised till the voltage drops below 1.2v which will only happen with a serious problem. I'm happy enough to go along with that so I'm definitely going to be following the majority method from this thread. For anyone wanting to follow in my/our shoes, just make sure that the relay you use has a LOW drop off voltage. As long as it does, you'll never need to worry about the 9v "low power" standard.