Scott

Phone needs to be rooted for ARUnchained etc so it may be an idea to get a 2nd phone just for the Supra. Depends if you're comfortable with rooting a brand new phone or not Appradio itself works just fine with either the iPhone or an Android phone, it's just limited as you would expect

Other than the 2 pages of information previously given?

Pfft, my links way cheaper

These look the same to me and WAY cheaper. Could probably get them re-anodised and still be cheaper........ http://www.aliexpress.com/af/Lightweight-Toyota-Supra-JZA80-pulley.html?ltype=wholesale&d=y&origin=n&isViewCP=y&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160202153046&SearchText=Lightweight+Toyota+Supra+JZA80+pulley Edit: in fact, here's gold.... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/EPMAN-LIGHTWEIGHT-CRANK-PULLEY-FOR-93-97-TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-2JZGTEUNDERDRIVE-EP-PYJZA80/1544074163.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.37.yhojcp&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2,searchweb201644_5_505_506_503_504_502_10001_10002_10016_10005_10006_10003_10004,searchweb201560_8,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_6450&btsid=35680e15-3bbc-491f-acc5-fddeefc7f2da

I hate threads like this. I've just sat and specced up a whole new install for myself now 1400 bloody quid. Anyone want to buy a boot install

If you're only planning on running 1 amp then 8awg will be fine for both your battery cable and earth cable. You want OFC cable regardless of what thickness you go for. You will need at least 5m of battery cable, I'd recommend getting 6 to allow for proper tucking etc. If you want to run 2 amps then you'll need at least 4awg, I would probably recommend 2awg or even 0awg if you're planning a large mono amp. You can get a little crazy with wiring, there's cheap ways to do it and there's expensive ways to do it. Unfortunately, as with everything, you get what you pay for. There are SO many companies now selling copper coated aluminium wire that it's scandalous. You REALLY want to be using OFC wire for everything, but as with anything you'll pay for the privilege. So...... with all of that in mind, here is what I would recommend..... 14m of 14awg (2.5mm) OFC copper wire for the speakers 6m of 8awg (8mm) OFC red copper wire for the battery positive (I would ask these guys if they could supply 6m rather than 5). 2m of 8awg (8mm) OFC black copper wire for the earth (Rear seat is a good earth location, sits approx 1-1.5m from where you will have the amp so 2m is plenty). This is really good stuff. If you're feeling flush you could get the power cable as this stuff too. It's excellent and worth the money. 5m of 18awg (0.8mm) any old crap blue copper wire for the remote

I would get the RCA cables from wherever you buy the amp. I would factor in £30-£40 for them. This is a really important part of the setup regarding sound quality to your new speakers. Something along these lines is what I would look at..... http://caraudiosecurity.com/rfit-20-20-feet-premium-dual-twist-signal-cable http://caraudiosecurity.com/rfit-16-16-feet-premium-dual-twist-rca-signal-cable http://caraudiosecurity.com/ft2-550-5-5m-rca

The bell discs I have for my APs are way lighter than OEM. They're bigger too.

The 4 pots weigh a ton

Any Appradio that takes your fancy. I absolutely love mine. If you want to use ARUnchained (access anything at all on the phone when connected) then you'll need an Android phone and an Appradio3 headunit.

Mines 205/Stock 190. Depends on what dyno it is though?

Not really sure to be honest. They are the cheapest speakers I would recommend to anyone (they just happen to be really good value).

I would honestly save up a bit more and do it once (right). There are LOADS of cheaper options but I don't think you can buy better speakers for your money and that amp is an absolute blinding deal considering what it cost when it was first released. Received positive review after positive review. With everything you'll need to do a bit of work to get everything sounding PERFECT. You want to fit some sort of dynamatting to the door skin behind the speakers to help avoid vibration etc. Good speakers with decent bass will make the structure of the doors etc vibrate a lot more so it's good to have everything in place before you start. The difference in the audio sound quality is night and day when it's done (I've not done it yet and I notice the difference a mile compared to my previous installs. It's on the list though). There are MUCH cheaper options than actual dynamat too so don't worry too much about costs

I've got 3 of them in my install and never had an issue. I took a lot of precautions with them though. They're only meant for individual amps with a maximum of 8awg wire. If your amp needs more than 8awg then you're going to cause serious heat. Additionally, ALWAYS solder the ends being screwed into the plug for a solid contact. Same goes for any end connectors etc. Soldering makes such a difference to the contact.

Fronts: http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-spr-60c_p-27160.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA-fPXtITt3f0BEiQAPCkqQTFIOR5OwMwosfhL7Q-Z6YpEZmMVm5HxOcaLNt1euOEaAiUZ8P8HAQ Rears: http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-spr-60_p-27161.htm Amp: http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-pmx-f640_p-23894.htm I wouldn't recommend a wiring kit to be honest. I would buy the wire separately to suit your needs exactly. I would also recommend getting a vibe fastplug.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/191522579288?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=pla-131843270226&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&googleloc=1007341&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80 Takes your budget up to £300 but it would be a VERY capable setup and one that will do you forever. I doubt you would even need the sub to be honest.

Absolutely the right choice IMO. Unfortunately you're a little unlucky with your timing as the prices have seriously climbed over the last 18-24 months. However, the prices are appreciating due to the rarity of the models and the prestige of the car so you aren't going to lose any money. You can pretty much aim for any power goal you wish to. The cars tend to remain reliable as long as the supporting mods are correct and well looked after. You'll easily see 700hp on the stock block without a lot to worry about and if you're willing to pile in a few £1000 more you can get a reliable 1000hp. I genuinely don't believe there's a car on the planet that you can get so much out of reliably with the outlay remaining reasonable.

How much for the brake master & the fuel pump hanger posted?

Here is a Toucan setup with Syvecs.....

Ahh, the quote you used is Syvecs

What do you class as OBD2 information? I'm guessing my answer wasn't clear enough for you?

Think it's a maximum of 20 per post. Might be 30 though.

Definitely a good buy then. I think the previous RS still fetches decent money. The first one is still my favourite though.

I'd say it's better than OBD2. It gives you full monitoring via your laptop over the lan connection. Can be fully tweaked, monitored, mapped, configured, etc, etc, etc. There's also head up display options where you can have custom screens showing all manner of diagnostic information.

The new RS does look a bit special but is it not more than 30k? If it can be had for that money then it's definitely a great shout. Looks a brilliant bit of kit and it'll hold its value really well, being an RS.

If you have the cash spare to do it then I think there are huge advantages to be had. Worth it is all relative as it's a HUGE outlay for not a lot in regards to power etc. The ECU has so many tricks up its sleeve though and loads of new toys can be added both making the car more entertaining and safer at the same time.