Need4Speed

Brake run-out is caused by the disc being out of true either due to warping or (less likely) the disc carrier or hub/flange being bent. You would notice general vibration under braking, even light braking, and a juddering in the pedal. The effect on pads would be to wear both pads, and they would sit further away from the disc than if it were running true. This would cause a long pedal. It sounds to me like you had a sticking piston. This would also explain the low fluid level warning as once the brake was operating correctly the piston would have moved to the correct position; ie pad just touching disc, thus lowering the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. The "three stages of feel" of your pedal was caused by the working side of the caliper bending the disc until it met the pad on the seized side. You symptoms and result all make sense to me although run-out is not strictly the correct wording. Still if it's sorted... Consider putting new pads in as the ones you've got will be worn unevenly.

Having now track tested my Supra I think a front strut brace will do nothing but look nice. However, the back end was a bit twitchy. I suspect this is spring rates that are a bit too hard for the damping rate (or dampers too soft for the springs). Still, thanks to those who advised me about my boost problem (and a little help from Blitz) the engine performed well. But I need more power!

I guess from the performance point of view that's a bit of "who knows". Mine's a coupé not a targa so probably nothing in it other than for looks and presentation.

Doesn't this show how useless some locking nuts are if the thief has an old socket and a hammer. I helped out a TVR owner a couple of years ago at the Brighton Speed Trials who'd had his locking nut key nicked and had a set of slicks on the rear when it came to time to drive home! It took a minute to figure it out from scratch but an old socket & hammer did the trick.

I've noticed a few cars have strut braces fitted at the front, do these make any significant improvement to stiffness (no gags please)?

Splitting & resealing is the easy bit. The lacquer's not in perfect condition though and the wheels have been scraped on kerbs by a previous owner. A problem with 35 & 40 series tyres. Never had this problem with my Cherokee...

Unfortunately for me Spit & Polish don't do split-rims.

Can any of you experienced Supra people recommend a wheel specialist who can clean up split-rim wheels - mine are looking a bit scruffy and losing a bit of air.

You can get these plugs in the UK over the counter. Beware of importing to save money and then getting hit for Duty & VAT.

Bleed valves!

Thanks to those who gave me such good advice regarding my boost levels - the problem has been found and sorted. JP

Hi GavinL The boost seems to run riot a little although it appears to misfire & dump the excess boost above 1.2bar. My feeling is that the ECU has been modded in a haphazard way just to deliver top end power (around 400bhp). I only run it on Optimax so I'm in general agreement with the thread about fuel. The rest of the car? It's an Auto but what model I don't yet know -Bilsteins with rising rate springs, usual exhaust mods but the cat(s) still fitted. 9J & 10J Stern split rims. It also has the active spoiler and a couple of additional instruments from Greddy. No doubt there's more to it that I've yet to discover. Until 3 months ago I didn't even notice these cars - in fact it was a Skyline I was looking at when I saw this Supra. I'm track testing soon! John Packham

Apologies if I've upset a protocol here... I've only just discovered this site. Hello to all. I've had my Supra for three months and bought it on a whim - what a pleasant surprise, Porsche beater for the price of a Focus. Incidentally it appears to be producing excess boost - up to 1.5 bar but misses above 1.2 bar. The car is a 93 JZA80. No doubt I'll find out more in the next few months.

My cruise only works up to an indicated 69 mph... any ideas.