Need4Speed

I didn't think anybody flushed engines since the appearance of synthetic oil (1980s?). What sort of muck have people been putting in their Supras? I generally like Mobil 1 but it is too thin for the Supra. If you use decent synth or semi-synth oil you won't have any deposits in your engine to worry about. I've had my car for 4 months now (recorded mileage 50,000) and done about 4500 miles - it's used nil (not a drop of) 10/40 oil.

If your engine smokes on thin "oil" but not on "thick" oil, it's only a matter of time before it does. Start thinking about a bit of an engine rebuild.

Randy - if your brakes are as bad as mine (fully functioning J-spec) I'd go for the brakes & suspension first. "Cool" tyres won't look too cool with the front wings embedded in them, and they won't work if you don't have the wheels under control.

Time for me to get the VISA card out then! Was that £150 just for the pipe or did you get it fitted for that?

I've got my camber set at -0.5 degrees and the car turns in well and is neutral with the usual power oversteer (tyres are 275/35 series rear and 235/40 series front 17"). I don't know what your car has in the way of suspension, but I assume the camber is adjustable on the standard car (and the castor aswell). Take it to someone who knows about set-ups rather than some place that does wheel alignment. The correct camber for a non standard car can only be found with testing and tyre temperatures, or even how you like it to handle (feel). Camber and castor are simple to set provided you have the right kit - it's not rocket science and you don't need expensive equipment with lasers etc. (you can track a car with a ball of string and a ruler!) I'm sure one of the established names on this BBS will be able to help.

Well, that'll teach me to post messages after a few beers. I must try to look at this site before 11pm!

This all depends on what size your rims are. Some sizes are difficult to find in certain makes. I ended up with S01 rear and S03 front - I'm quite happy with both traction and turn in. It does also depend on your suspension set up. 35 series tyres are a bit of a waste with soft suspension.

I can recommend a full harness seat belt if you really want to get nailed into the seat. You can then spend more time driving the car instead of leaning on the steering wheel just to stop yourself slididing around in the seat.

If I was throwing out white smoke I wouldn't drive to York & back to see if it was a head gasket problem, I'd get it in the workshop before it went bang. Ever seen a Formula One car from the turbo era go bang? White smoke rings a bell in my distant memory. What ever it is, if your Supra is more than just transport you need to get to the bottom of this. Toyota didn't build them with white smoke so there is a problem - you just haven't found it yet (hope you do before it goes bang).

Anyway, who needs music when there's that turbo whistle and bovs to listen to! Not to mention 3.0 litres of straight six howling away at the front. Sat Nav? Britain's not big enough to need that.

The TV will not work in Europe.

Ignore the previous link unless you're in Ulster - OOOPS!

I'm not aware of any specific type aprovals re: tyres. Everything I've read says variations on the fit-for-purpose theme. Here's a good URL to look at http://www.doeni.gov.uk/dvta/prepare.htm

I would check toe-in (and really camber), after this job. The tyres are too expensive to waste.

I have a turbo timer by Starbo. It has four push buttons on the front labelled "off, 1, 3, 5". I assumed they were minutes of running time. The timer was not connected when I bought the car but I've plugged it back in and it works only it NEVER switches off the engine. There's a white wire coming out of the unit which has been cut off. I expect this is an obscure Japanese unit but has anyone ever met one and got it to work (you could save me £100 which is worth a beer or two)?

Cheers Steve, I'll give him a call.

I'm looking to try EBC Red pads on my J-spec (two piston sliding caliper front) 93 GZ. Does anybody know the part numbers for these pads or a good source who knows what the pads are and can supply them. This is a stop-gap while I investigate serious brakes.

Chris, I must speak to you about my brakes. If you can make up bells etc. you may be just who I'm looking for. My limiting factor is 17" rims. I'm looking for something that means tyre grip is the deciding factor not brake fade, and ideally 4 pot calipers.

Barkes?? I must preview in future. Oh well, back to the fridge!

Adam, thanks for that. I had assumed it was a case of matching fuel delivery to boost pressure to ECU etc. but was reading alot of stuff about UK fuel pumps as if it was a solution to all thing fuel. I have my engine performance worked out now. All I need to do is sort the barkes. Who in their right mind in Japan thought those J-spec brakes would stop a Corolla? Let's go to work!

The flow rate of a pump doesn't tell what pressure it delivers. I thought fuel pressure was the issue here. Maybe I'm wrong... point me in the right direction.

HiSpec Motorsport are advertising in the current issue of "Motorsports Now" so they must be relatively confident of their engineering as far a competition cars go. I'm going to check them out as they're quite local. Watch this space.

What sort of speeds are we talking about here? Three figure (not on the UK highway of course) and what were the road conditions - wet dry etc.? I assume you've checked your wheel balance. Have you looked at your dampers recently? The bonnet will resonate with any vibration as it's not very rigid. It's unlikely to be an aero problem as that would most likey lift the front end and feel like aquaplaning. What do you mean by plastic wheel spacers?

Is the question of fuel pumps one of fuel pressure? If so what fuel pressure should I be looking at to handle 550bhp, and what injectors shoul I fit? I don't have this at present but it is my Holy Grail.

Just an after thought, is your car j-spec, because the most common cause of your problem is a seized sliding caliper.