Need4Speed
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Everything posted by Need4Speed
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The more you polish them, the worse the heat disappation. Polish if you like hot brakes. Personally I think they look good out of the box. If it doesn't improve performance, it ain't worth the trouble. Each to his own.
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Well I'm glad someone agrees with me
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Or of course Rally Design, about 1 mile away from me.
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Speak to Leon. 3 turns is not a sound engineering prospect. Thread length of 1.5 times the stud diameter is more like it.
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Do it. The results will please
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The system will take 500ml from empty to bleed, but have a spare bottle to hand. Drain the old stuff fully. I used AP 551 Racing - can't fault it.
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UK fronts & J rears works well. I'm confident. The front brakes do the work.
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You can't do a 150-0mph stop with j-spec brakes.
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Ooops, just read the post agian. Slight knock at low speed, dodgy tracking set-up - check your wheel nuts.
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There are a few out there who can set up steering/tracking. The one you used apparently wasn't one of them. It sounds like the steering column was not centred when the "tracking" was done. Read Ian C for a second opinion! - but amend to WILL be nasty.
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J-spec brakes agian... a bit of bête noire with me I'm afraid. How bad are they? - Worse than my fiesta van's brakes by a country mile. It's hard to believe a disc brake that big can't stop a Supra. As brakes go, they make good paperweights!
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Does the fuel injection on these systems need bleeding when first run from dry?
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I figured first cat out would reduce the EGT, but thanks for the clarification.
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In that case what's the advantage in me taking cat(s) out. The prime reason for the original question is that the centre cat is restricting my ground-clearance as my car runs wuite a low ride-height. I already have a steady 1.1bar if I want it but generally run 1.0. Any comments welcome.
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I've got a Blitz Dual SBC and reckon it's excellent. I've also got a Greddy boost guage. The guage allows me to see what's going on and the boost controller monitors peaks and allows me a track day set-up, normal everyday set-up and I can shut it all down to remind myself of what a standard car is like. I can't fault it for a piece of tuning kit. Incidentally I have both cats still fitted although am considering removing one. Any views on which one will be appreciated.
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There's probably another on somewhere with a bulb that doesn't work. Are they all OK when you switch on?
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Is there a sale on?
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Guess. There's probably a fuse for the fuel pump (failing that, disconnect it) but whether the ECU will refuse to allow you to turn the engine over without a fuel pump, I don't know... surely somebody on this site knows.
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I reckon wheel balance or wheel bearings, but balance is the most likely. Disc run-out is a long shot. It won't be alignment unless it's way out in which case the handling will be weird.
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Discs that are not straight. ie. when the disc rotates it moves from side to side. This can cause vibration and will be most obvious when braking. It feels like the road is covered with a series of bumps, like those yellow stripes you get before some round-abouts. The most common cause of vibration is wheel balance. Even 5g out will have a big effect.
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Note: When I say a reasonable price, I mean relative to the new price of the car.
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That's what I thought.
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I can assure you that the belt changed was the auxiliary belt not the cam belt. Clearly somebody in the parts dept made a mistake in billing. I was told the belt would be about £60 but was charged £18.75. The belt came from a main Toyota dealer - it was out of their van. I can't imagine any decent workship charging £20 to fit a cam belt. Looks like I had a fortunate bargain then. Incidentally, £60 seems a reasonable price to me for the auxiliary belt - this not a Panda (no offence) we're talking about.
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Justin I doubt that you problem is wheel alignment. If you are 100% confident that the wheel balance is OK, check wheel bearings, dampers, suspension joints and even brake run-out.
