Need4Speed

Found it on eBay.

I'm looking for a CliffNet cable for the Clifford Concept 600 alarm system. I've got the software (and a car I can't start!).

Standard rims.

They're not that expensive and they are excellent wheels. Any Toyota dealer can supply them assuming Toyota still have them. Part #: LPZ439-S0670-ZM (8½'' fronts) Part #: LAM287-81000 (10'' rears)

Is nobody reading this thread in Sweden and Norway? I have to agree with CW (again) that RWD is not a problem in snow. A manual is going to be easier than an auto if the going gets icy. Having said that I drive auto... in the south of France where it's 12ºC today!

I guess you mean the FCD? There's a scotchlok or two in there... exactly... That's why I thought it a likely cause. I'm going to rewire it properly.

Nic, it misses all the time. It won't go faster than about 20km/h... it's that bad. The wiring I took out was all old stereo stuff and every wire I removed was not connected to anything at one or both ends. However I suspect that something has been disturbed/dragged/pulled. I'm confident of finding it but was hoping for a reply that would save me a load of unnecessary work. It's winter and my garage has no heating yet!

No fault code is showing. The fault just appeared at the time I took out some redundant wiring (yes it really was redundant) and some of it passed near the main ECU. It's got an HKS FCD installed there hence the question. I can't see anything obviously not connected and obviously the FCD is not a factory connected item. It's the lack of fault code that surprises me. It's not just missing on a cylinder or two but I will try the old fashioned checks!

I've got a miss that is like having a pit-lane speed limiter. The car is undriveable. Could this be a failure or open circuit of the HKS FCD. Happy New Year all.

There's a lot of that stuff going on in Britain these days.

I raced in the Porsche 924 series for a couple of seasons. Same idea; cheap racing and close competition. The suggestion was that you could buy a car for £1000, put a roll cage etc. in and off you go. It was obvious that people were spending big (6 figures!) money on the series and even then they weren't winning. It cost me in excess of £8000 to build a car from the previous one I'd written off. The idea of cheap racing is very appealing but in reality it's very hard to do. Time Attack should be cheap but it's not. If you want to race cheaply, look at anything organised by the 750MC, particularly their MR2 series.

I'm always mistaking them for a Bentley! Buy the diesel if it's just for a run-araound, the V8 is brilliant but do you want the fuel bill?

Nope again. The car is a UK car and we drive on the other side of the road here. The headlights at 700€ are French spec. If you want to register a J-spec Supra in France allow a year and 4-5000€... and there's no guarantee you'll get it registered! Now, anybody want to buy a pair of UK glass headlights?

Why would I buy UK headlights when I live in France? That's why I'm selling a pair of UK headlights...

You lot in England are soooo lucky when it comes to Supras. Not only is it virtually impossible to import a J-spec here, the headlights are 700€ a pair:((yes, seven hundred)

What would the postage be to the south of France? Does it include a 3/4 sized Michaela Tabb?

I have declined an offer of £100 plus postage

I've just checked and they have not been painted. The corrosion I referred to is cosmetic on the chrome rings and at the top corner of the light. What you see in the photo is all there is.

They're off a 1996 car and as far as I know, they're as Toyota made them. My new headlights look the same.

I have a pair of UK glass headlights for sale. They have the adjuster motors but no bulbs. One is in perfect condition, the other has minor corrosion to the chrome trim inside the unit (you can see it all on the left of the two photos). I've recently taken these off my UK car. If you've only ever driven with J-spec headlights these are a revelation when driving at night. Offers by PM only please. Bear in mind I'm sending these from France and that will cost about £50 - so no joke offers. You are free to collect, but I'm in the south!

I would expect poor alignment to cause directional vagueness but not a wobble or weave. Yes, double checking the toe-in settings is a good idea but check for loose suspension mountings or worn bushes etc. as well as the subframe bolts. Does it appear to be steering from the back at all?

Check subframe bolts and all suspension bushes at the front.

After removing the passenger seat and carpet I thought I'd found the problem as the heated O2 sensor was not plugged in. That's because it's not there at all, just an empty socket! I guess it went in the bin when the second cat was removed and not replaced when the second cat went back in. Now I've got a permanent 27 error code and it's the only error code stored. I've still got a bad missfire. Anybody got any ideas what could cause this and not give an error code? I guess it's down to the old-fashioned stuff of looking at plugs.

New studs made to the correct spec must be better than old ones.

Cheers Chris, that was my next place to look. I haven't drilled anything or pulled out any wires that weren't dead stereo stuff but I have had that area apart so I'm hoping to find a dislodged connector. I'll also chech continuity to the ECM. What I thought initially was a missfire now sounds like a carb engine with loads of choke. It's all making sense.