Need4Speed

Bump stops are correctly fitted. I'm now acquiring some new TRD bits.

If you're going to mod any engine with a view to real power increase, make sure the engine is in good condition to start with. No point adding a turbo if the rings are shot for example.

Sorry Steve, they're the same thing. The knock migrated to the other side of the car when I swapped them over. Where did you get your new Bilsteins and how much? email me if you like [email protected]

After a fair bit more investigation and testing it seems the struts are in need of replacement.

There's a good section on mkiv.com in tech articles. If you go to recorded mechanical problems there's a .wav file which sounds (unfortunately) like you describe your problem. Have a listen - it's called "death whine". Hopefully yours doesn't sound like this.

Tail happy? That's the fun part!

Correct but a bit intellectual:)

Cheers Steve, I'll speak to Pete about it. It's the nearest to driving a Chevrolet I've met. In fact it's as light as the steering on my Cherokee. The active spoiler does work at the right speed, but the cruise control stops at 69mph. Does this make any sense?

If so, then here it is. (didn't you get one with the timer?)

Is it a FATT DCII?

I understand that the power steering is electronically controlled and linked to the speed of the car, but is there any mod that can be done to increase the feel/weight of the steering, without messing about with the geometry?

Ian You have two weeks to read them then we'll be asking questions and will expect you to know!

Silverstone GP circuit track day, J-spec brakes faded to useless in the first run into Stowe! Goodwood track day, UK spec & R4 pads - no sign of fade, just a bit of disc vibration. Cooling ducts are on their way.

The word "can" is misleading, and the "zero" unlikely! Or was it just my J-spec brakes - 135 to 80 was a problem.

From 180mph! and only 800m!

Look very similar to me.

Chris/Steve I'll measure when I take them out again in the week. The damper rod is long enough that the spring is not preloaded though. There's definitely over 50mm of compression when the car is stationary, so there's plenty of droop. Traction out of tight corners is not a problem.

Thanks Steve

The issue of the boot rubber is that the diameter of the strut body doesn't match the diameter of the boot. I suspect it's from a standard strut which has a different diameter? (see diagram) The question of compressing the strut; I did use my entire body weight to do it, and not all dampers expand by themselves. In 17 years of racing I've dealt mainly with 2.25" coil-over units, and usually they stay where you put them. If the returning characteristics of my Bilsteins is OK then I'm relatively happy. They both return at the same rate. The key issue now is that I've found a bodge job and so asume everything is wrong. I'm considering replacing the whole lot just so I know where I am. My view is that the Supra is a serious car and everything should be 100%. ps The rattle is still there despite swapping the struts.

Steve That's the spacer I need. I'm going to make some up. Have you got the spacer on upside down? Could you do me a favour and tell the length overall of that spacer? Where did that smilie upside come from? And have you got a boot rubber to go with that strut, a photo would be appreciated if you do. Cheers

I think I've found it. Somebody in the past history of this car has bodged the rear suspension. The o/s strut (the quiet one) has three washers in the top mount to form a spacer and the n/s one doesn't. Pic 1 shows the n/s strut and the spacer at the top of the damper rod. Unfortunately this spacer is not long enough to seat into the top mount so pulls the damper rod through the top mount. Quite what should be in there I don't yet know. This tells me the TRD Bilsteins were not a facotory fit and whoever fitted them last was a moron. Are the boots shown in pic 2 the same as the standard Toyota ones or are they particular to the Bilsteins? Next question. There appear to be no markings on the springs except the two red marks shown in pic 3. Do these look familiar to anybody? Finally when compressed and released, the dampers both return to extended length. Is this normal on this type of strut? Thanks for all the ideas on this guys, even if it only made me look to try and prove you wrong!

Don't forget you'll have to pay duty & VAT which will add over 20% minimum. Also be wary of US spec tyres, I don't know if there's a legal issue here but it's highly likely the compound won't be any use with British wet weather. These sound very worrying. I wouldn't even go in a car with this sort of kit. Sorry to hear you've been shafted. Hope you get it sorted. The only safe way is to try the wheels on the car before parting with the cash.

This issue of offset crops up again. The offset alone does not determine whether the rim will clear the caliper. The shape and thickness of the spokes is a major factor. When I did mine I fitted the calipers and then tried the rims. I found I needed a thin spacer. I use 5mm (or are they 6mm) although the actual problem was only 2mm but practically you can't use a spacer that thin. The UK 4 pot calipers are a lot thicker than the J-spec sliding ones so fit the calipers before buying the rims. That way you can try the rims against the hubs befroe buying. Alternatively find a fellow Supra owner with the UK brakes and try your rims on their car. The problem is only at the front because it's not worth changing the back brakes. I don't follow this. or this

Supra Pilot you have PM

The one in question is good enough for the Winston Cup, it can probably answer the TRD Bilstein question