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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Need4Speed

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Everything posted by Need4Speed

  1. Put the Uk front calipers and discs (rears if you want to spend money) on but check your rims will fit over the calipers. Apart from heavy track-day use, you will be surprised at how good they are compared to the Japanese brakes. Do a search on this site, there are loads of threads on this subject.
  2. Mid'lifecry'sis - seems like there's a few of us in Kent, where abouts are you?
  3. I seem to remember you take the speaker grilles off and that gives you access to the screws you can't see.
  4. And make sure you get on the lower deck.
  5. Ah... what a caring bunch we are.
  6. I've just cured a similar problem which was very elusive and I only figured it out after totally sripping the rear interior. Although I could not find this on the workbench, it was a rear shock-absorber problem. I swapped the shock-abobsorbers left to right and the knock swapped sides. I've now replaced both shock-absorbers and the knock has gone. Of course you may have a different problem, but try removing the entire rear interior, seat belts and all and see if the knock is still there. Another relevant point is that without any interior trim and fittings, it's much easier to pinpoint the locaton of a suspension knock.
  7. Unplug it from the cruise control unit then it's relatively accessible.
  8. It's all on the TRL Performance web site - see above. You need to take the dash panelling out but don't be put off, the Supra is very user friendly here, there's just a lot of it. If you haven't done it before, the dash front comes off leaving all the instruments in place. It's all built with coloured multi-pin plugs, so it's easy to put back together.
  9. Mine's up in 3-4 weeks Matt... and despite driving over 1,000,000 miles with a couple of traffic jam nudges in the last 10 years, a clean licence etc. etc. I'm still getting hilarious quotes.
  10. Did this mod recently using Pete's wiring diagram and it's a doddle to do.
  11. I don't know about the function of the sensor being to stop grass fires, but cat exhausts can do this.
  12. VERY EXPENSIVE. To do donuts you will need an LSD as well. All a bit boy-racer:eek:
  13. I note you say leave cat 1 in and not cat 2. I've done it the other way round. Should I swap around?
  14. Nathan I'm Ok with all that. I tried the cats out route and it didn't suit me, and it negated the control the Blitz DSBC gave me. On/off power at 4000rpm caused me a moment or two on wet roads in traffic - like overtaking a truck sideways!
  15. My reason for leaving cat 1 out. I found the power delivery impractical for everyday use - wheelspin was a pain. Not a lot of point producing the goods if chassis can't put it down on the road. Generally the reason for cat removal is a cheap boost hike.
  16. I only run the second cat, and have a Blitz DSBC. I can't quite see the point in fitting the decat and then a restrictor. On a cold day, min 1 bar now 0.7-0.8.
  17. I've just done this very thing. Anybody want a 2 month old CW second decat pipe? See the For Sale section.
  18. I was informed that with ABS, do it with the engine running. I did and at worked fine, but I've not tried it without and haven't decided if there's any logic in it. Disconnecting the servo is not necessary.
  19. Shouldn't we be talking to Shell about a group buy then:D
  20. Motor sport is like driving along, throwing £50 notes out of the window.
  21. You can't beat the Japanese when it comes to marginal translation. This reminds me of the old (1980s) IT quote from Japan about floppy-disks (remember them) "Do not descend the power button in fear of removing your datas. Instead escape disk with finger after it has rested properly" - Your answers on a postcard! What ever that plywood composite is, it's everywhere where flat bottoms are required. Now I am departing from Supras - Technical:D
  22. Chris I imagine it weighed about the same as a Supra's carpet though.
  23. All you top speed merchants out there should also bear in mind that wing down-force is created at the expense of drag. In the turbo days of F1, the term "barn-door" was often used to describe the drag of a high down-force rear wing. When lifting off at high speed and not touching the brakes, a deceleration well in excess of 1G was experienced in these cars.
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