Need4Speed
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Everything posted by Need4Speed
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No but I live up the road and have a standard wheel stud.
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Is that Rallydesign in Faversham Kent?
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Front, back or both? I assume the floor the car was on when measured was perfectly flat and horizontal.
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so that's what a standard spring looks like!
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Very unlikely to make any difference.
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I've got standard Koni adjustables on the rear, set on stiff with lowered springs and it all seems pretty stable to me. The konis alsom also allow you to set the spring platforms at two different levels so you can adjust the ride height a little. For the price I think they're pretty good. I suspect I've got TRD anti-roll bars but haven't had them out to look.
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Jamie Five threads is NOT enough to keep your wheels on. Put longer studs on before it's too late. A good guide is the racing regulation that requires a thread depth of 1.5 times the stud diameter. I've done this and it's not difficult but a wheel gun does help. I get about (from memory) 10 or 11 full turns on the wheel nuts. As for the J-spec bits, the skip is a good place.
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Doughie - if you're really into this sort of stuff, do you read Racecar Engineering. The really techie stuff is beyond me but there's an awful lot in there that is at the level of common sense engineering. Good article this month on what causes sports cars to take off - like Mercedes at Le Mans in 1999.
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BTCC cars require that the wheel fits under the wheel arch which limits the tyre rolling diameter, but they need bigger front brakes than a standard road car. Hence big diam. rims with very low profile tyres. F1 cars must run 13" rims but have carbon/carbon brakes which don't need to be huge to stop the car.
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Has anybody had any engine wear problems using Miller?
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Bobbeh - call me cynical, but I suspect it's a styling issue.
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Mark - That's St Mary's; use plenty of kerb on the left hander (at the apex).
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Mark - Treat Goodwood with respect. Even UK brakes aren't up to the job. Try braking into Woodcote from about 135 and leave it until after the kink.
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That explains the sideways bit Mark. Was it wet?
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Changing gear mid-corner?
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John E-mail me at [email protected] and I'll send you the wiring diagram for the FAT DCII
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I think the Bomex bonnet is suppoesed to take hot air out from behind the radiator, but I could be wrong.
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GavinL So it's essential kit for M25 traffic then. Thanks for all the instant replies. In a nutshell it looks nice but isn't vital. It did puzzle me because it's nowhere near the intercooler, air intake or radiator, so what was it ductng air to.
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Being a j-spec owner I've never really thought about this until asked a couple of days ago, but what function does the bonnet scoop on the UK car perform?
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No - that was my problem. I don't want 1.1 bar all the time, and I don't use manual mode.
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Mid'lifecry'sis £100 to you (£160 new) and it's done 1000 miles (mostly sideways:eek: ) email me [email protected]
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Alex - No worries mate. I realised I'd posted J-spec info against a tech query on UK, but this whole decat business gets to me. My car was undriveable with both cats out, the second turbo came in at 1.1bar like a light switch and I spent most of my driving lifting off at 4000 just to keep traction. Being an auto, it changed up as soon as I lifted. I've put the second cat back in and it's fine. Anybody want to buy a CW 2nd decat pipe?
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Ian UK discs (front) are £70.37 and £73.26 each (don't ask why they're not the same price). Part nos. are T43516-14030 and T43512-14200 respectively. Available at your local Toyota Dealer.
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Ian Do you mean £250 for skimming or replacing? New discs are about £75 each for UK spec and skimming should be about £35 each. I'm trying to figure out what you must have done to wreck discs so quickly. Mine are 5000 miles old with race pads and track day use, and show no problems at all.
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Is the UK car THAT different to the J-spec?
