Need4Speed

Easier than finding a UK manual in top nick:)

The Supra was designed as an auto. You need both hands on the wheel:D

Monkeymark - you don't happen to have a photo of this device do you, I'm trying to figure out what it does.

Off the top of my head £10,000 or more. And by clutchless I assume you mean a power-shift system. Hewland do a race spec one at about £11,000 so add another 3K or 4K. IMHO a dream-world.

As far as I know, the originals are made by KYB. The Bilsteins are quite pricey and you need to have the right springs. The TRD Bilsteins are very expensive and you need to have the right springs. My personal experience says Koni adjustables because they're a decent piece of kit for a good price. Ignore all the trick "show" units (HKS, Cusco etc.), they're very pretty and pretty expensive and that's all. The advantage of the Konis is price and the fact that you can set them to match your existing fronts and work with your existing springs. I have them at the rear and TRD at the front; works fine. PS If a garage is being paid to fit them, it should take 30 minutes or so if they know what they're doing. I can do them in 45 without a lift!

Mine didn't leak but they didn't damp either - particularly on rebound!

Search on "rear suspension knock" for my history.

I had a similar knock a few months ago and it turned out to be as a result of failing shock absorbers. I swapped them left to right and the knock moved. New shock absorbers and it's fine.

The pads click as you press the brake pedal while reversing. The only parts you NEED to have are the two pins 47748B, the spring clip that holds the pins in 47748A, and the anti-rattle spring 47748. The shims 47744 and 47745 cut down brake squeel. If you fit everything correctly and run standard pads, all should be quiet.

You can get pad-knock when reversing, particularly is you run without shims. Hopefully the following image isn't too big.

I also challenge anybody to get the brake dust off my front wheels:eek:

UK front & J Rears & I challenge any UK alrounder to out-stop me.

I've got one of CW's second cat replacement pipes for sale £100 and I'm quite local.

Ashley This is negative camber and a Supra should be set like this. The exact camber setting depends on a few variables, and as Chris Wilson says will vary a bit on road cars anyway. Measuring camber is not rocket-science and a camber guage is just a glorified spirit level. You can buy a camber gauge (the Pace one) from Demon Tweeks for about £75 + VAT and measure your own. Short of accident damage, worn/lose suspension, or heavy kerbing, camber doesn't change. I have my car set at about -2 degrees all round. This is probably not perfect for tyre wear, but it does work well on fast corners. I've done track days with it and taken tyre temperatures and they confirm the camber is fine. If I were starting from scratch with standards suspension and tyres, I would set at -1.5 front and -1 rear and go from there. I imagine there are factory settings knocking about in this board, but don't go looking for more than half a degree here or there. If you're coming my way, let me know and I'll have a look.

If looks don't cause you a problem, just swap the front wheels back to std. Any Supra is better than no Supra. People will assume the real rims are in for a refurb or something. It's a road car after all; you're not talking about lap times are you?

I had this pipe blow off while showing a TVR owner how quick the Supra was when the boost is up. A worrying pop followed by a lifeless but smooth engine. Sorry for dropping in so late on this thread, but I'm having a late day.

All fluids have an operating temperature range. What level of tune are you planning for your engine that makes you go this route?

A very poor Supra, a very quick Subaru, or both?

Yes, but in the grand scheme of things - hub, disc, wheel, tyre - not a lot. A fixed four pot always beats a sliding caliper, and the pad area is quite a bit larger aswell. My vote says UK.

Yes If it's all got to come out, you may as well overhaul the bushes etc. Don't know the Whiteline bushes at all. This one I can't answer - sorry. The parts don't sound like expensive ones. Sorry for a vague answer, but as nobody else seems to come up with a definitive I've-done-this type answer, I hope this is of help.

I always keep one higher setting on mine for those warm days. A boost gauge should be showing pressure in the manifold, the accuracy of the reading should not be affected by temperature.

You don't need clever kit to check cambers Rob, just a camber gauge. If you're in Kent, drop me a line, bring the car over and I'll dig the gauge out.

Pete - the thing about the level ground is that 1 degree of slope will move the camber 1 degree. If you haven't got a camber gauge then you are at the mercy of the garage. If the cambers are as you stated then it sounds to me like it may be a loose cross-member problem. I'm assuming that the inner bottom mounts are on the cross member - CW will know more about this than me. My car runs -2deg on both sides although I have to agree with Chris that unless it's rose-jointed it will vary every time you measure it.

Same nuts and although Leon's not strictly a member he is generally reckoned to be THE expert on Supras. Look him up here

Rally Design have a Vauxhall/Opel stud which looks exactly like the ones I got from Leon. It's 50mm long, the part no. is SS38. It has a different spline on the hub end but the ones I have was also like that. You will need a wheel gun to fit them. It might be worth giving Leon a call and seeing if this is the same stud he supplies. The standard Supra studs are easy to take in and out. If you want the stud, send me your address - I wouldn't advise driving the car with only 5 threads holding the front wheels on! I'm going to TorqueIC this afternoon and will ask Justin's opinion. e-mail me [email protected]